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CGS985SET2SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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oven would heat up but then would not maintain temp
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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charles from box elder, SD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I deturmined that the flame starter was not pulling enough amps to open the gas valve (safety valve) . pulled two hand screws and removed floor of oven exposing the flame bar and flame starter. removed two screws on flame starter. removed lower pan drawer and disconected the electrical plug for flame starter. replaced in reverse orde
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r. easy.
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Ignitor would glow however gas stove would not light, no gas flow noted..
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard S from Spring, TX
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed oven racks, removed lower oven shelf panel by using a flathead screwdriver and removed two screws on the back edge of the panel. Removed flat style ignitor (two hex head screws)from the gas burner tube using a 3/16 nutdriver. Disconnected two wires from the ignitor. Removed the two pin connector from the new ignitor, stripped the
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insulation to expose about a 1/4 inch of bare wire at the ends of the wire where the connector was removed. Installed the ignitor to the gas burner tube using the 3/16 hexhead screws. Connected the wires using porcelain wire nuts. Re-installed the lower oven shelf panel, flathead screws and the oven racks. Oven worked as advertised.
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oven wouldn't heat up
3 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Litchfield, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I removed the racks and oven bottom panel. Then I took out the two screws holding the ignighter unplugged the wire connection and removed the old ignighter, compared the old with the new one mounted it back with the two screws plugged it back in. Job finished in 15 minutes and oven back working again.
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Oven wouldn't turn on
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Maurice from Lebanon, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
To get to the element I had to remove the lower cover from inside the oven.
After that I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. The wires are accessible from behind the undertray.
Installation of the new one was simply the revers ... Read more e.
Before re-installing the burner cover I did a quick test to ensure the new igniter functioned properly and that I hadn't mis-diagnosed the problem. The element quickly started to glow and that was it.
The oven now works as it should.
After that I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. The wires are accessible from behind the undertray.
Installation of the new one was simply the revers ... Read more e.
Before re-installing the burner cover I did a quick test to ensure the new igniter functioned properly and that I hadn't mis-diagnosed the problem. The element quickly started to glow and that was it.
The oven now works as it should.
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flame was inconsistent. too much air.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Raymond J. from EASTPORT, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
replaced old with new.
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shortage in wiring cause the housing to burn out
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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fred from PALM COAST, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response
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Gas Range oven not heating/replaced new heating element
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Andrew from EL SOBRANTE, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed oven shelves, removed lower cover, removed heating element, removed lower drawer and unplugged element.
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Oven wouldn't light
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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David from FLAGSTAFF, AZ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove interior bottom of oven, remove igniter screws, unplug igniter. reinstall igniter.
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Replace temp sensor in gas range
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Ron from PAINESVILLE, OH
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Part came as ordered. Hardest part was fitting plastic wiring harness through the hole with 2 layers of steel with insulation in between. Used electrical tape to stiffen the end about an inch or 2 back from harness. Job done, problem solved
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Temp probe was defective
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Eric from SOUTHBURY, CT
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.
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Food ran over the burner and damaged it.It was easy to place it back inII
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Alan from PASADENA, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
It only required placing the new burner in the proper location.
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Oven would not light-element glowed
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Huntington Woods, MI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the botoom drawer.
Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven.
Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor.
Four, now that I had access t ... Read more o the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner.
Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces.
Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions.
Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.
Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven.
Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor.
Four, now that I had access t ... Read more o the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner.
Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces.
Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions.
Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.
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oven would not come on
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carl from Bristol, VT
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
remove the door,racks,cover over burner,burner,element,replaced element and rest in reversed order.
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igniter wouldn.t work
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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don from rohnert park, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
had to take back off of oven because of the connector and the plug end insert had the wrong pin so i had to take it apart and use old ones then i put the assembly in /and put oven back together
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Oven wouldn't heat
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Patricia from Naugatuck, CT
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
First I unplugged the stove. I gently removed the two screws that hold the old element in place. I snipped the wires and then twisted the new wires with the stove wires and placed caps on wires. GENTLY replaced new element with screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Then I tested the oven after I put it back together and the oven works perfectly.
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