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CGEF306TPFA Frigidaire Range - Instructions
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Right rear burner not working properly
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dante from SOUTHOLD, NY
- Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After a brief discussion with CS about the electric stove part was shipped it arrived and I proceeded to install I found it needed to be installed sideways not up & down like the old one. The terminals did not line up so I put the black lead first and the purple lead last in doing that I burned out the switch??? was not easy to install as
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the video showed his switch matched each wire? My installation was sideways??
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Oven wires arced and caused the terminal block to melt and become detached from the back of the range
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Falmouth, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven ... Read more has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven ... Read more has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
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Burner switch work sometime.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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junius from WICOMICO, VA
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
I follow the video on your site
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Old part was replaced by mfg’r. Wiring different. No drawings or any info was included to show wiring.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Nelson from FRUITHURST, AL
- Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.
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The out side ring of the element was working. The middle portion was dead.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Novi, MI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I watch you tube of how to repair to gain my confidence and attempted the project. It was fairly easy. I took photos of wires so I wouldn’t make any mistakes. Boom ! Finished and works like a charm!!
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sensor should pull into oven enough to easily unsnap and snap but didn't pull out
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary from EDGAR, WI
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have
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The range element was not coming on
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from BENTON, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
After settling that it was the Surface Element Switch, ordering and securing the switch, the first step was to disconnect the power to the Oven/Range. Next pull out the Range and remove the back and disconnect the switch from the top of the Range. Using the new switch I removed the wire connectors from the old switch and reconnected them
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to the new switch in the same spot that they came from. After connections were secure I reattached the switch to the back of the Range and reattached the back of the Range. When everything was back in place the power source was reconnected and that was it.
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Element would not heat up
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Everett from Colchester, CT
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be su
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re to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)
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wrong part
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barbara from WICKENBURG, AZ
- Very Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as w
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ell as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.
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Oven was kicking out error code F1
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Chris from WILLOW SPRING, NC
- Very Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
First, I shut the OFF the main breaker. Then, I removed 2 screws holding the thermostat inside the oven. The wiring harness was too short to pull through small opening. I tried to fish the wires out with a piece of wire, but no luck. Eventually, the wiring harness disconnected and I had no choice but to remove entire wall oven from wall c
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avity.
Before starting this, again, make sure the main breaker is OFF:
1. Remove 2 screws that hold the oven in place. Mine were just below the display panel.
2. Remove silver trim at bottom of oven.
3. The power cable (flexible conduit, running down to the floor inside the cabinet) was too short to pull the oven out of the wall. I had to disconnect the oven wiring at the junction box (again...make sure the main breaker is OFF). I photographed the wiring set-up before disconnecting any wires. Once disconnected, I was able to pull the oven out of the wall cavity.
4. I placed the oven unit on a bar-height stool with a blanket underneath.
5. I removed the sheet metal shield on the back of the oven. (Roughly 10 screws on the sides.)
6. I found the wires to the old thermostat and pulled it through the opening in the back.
7. I disconnected the old thermostat harness, connected the new one.
8. I pushed the new thermostat into the oven and reconnected the 2 screws.
9. Everything looked good. I reassembled the back, slid the oven into the wall.
10. Reconnected the wiring.
11. Turned the breaker back on. Tested and it worked.
12. Secured the stove and installed the trim.
Before starting this, again, make sure the main breaker is OFF:
1. Remove 2 screws that hold the oven in place. Mine were just below the display panel.
2. Remove silver trim at bottom of oven.
3. The power cable (flexible conduit, running down to the floor inside the cabinet) was too short to pull the oven out of the wall. I had to disconnect the oven wiring at the junction box (again...make sure the main breaker is OFF). I photographed the wiring set-up before disconnecting any wires. Once disconnected, I was able to pull the oven out of the wall cavity.
4. I placed the oven unit on a bar-height stool with a blanket underneath.
5. I removed the sheet metal shield on the back of the oven. (Roughly 10 screws on the sides.)
6. I found the wires to the old thermostat and pulled it through the opening in the back.
7. I disconnected the old thermostat harness, connected the new one.
8. I pushed the new thermostat into the oven and reconnected the 2 screws.
9. Everything looked good. I reassembled the back, slid the oven into the wall.
10. Reconnected the wiring.
11. Turned the breaker back on. Tested and it worked.
12. Secured the stove and installed the trim.
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Washer would not spin.
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John J from UPTON, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove two screws in back to release the top.
Lift the top from the back and pull backwards to remove.
Open washer door and unscrew two screws to release the switch.
Reach down inside from the front and remove the switch.
Unplug the switch and replace with the new one. Reverse the process to install.
I found it ea ... Read more sier to have someone hold the switch while I screwed it back in.
Lift the top from the back and pull backwards to remove.
Open washer door and unscrew two screws to release the switch.
Reach down inside from the front and remove the switch.
Unplug the switch and replace with the new one. Reverse the process to install.
I found it ea ... Read more sier to have someone hold the switch while I screwed it back in.
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No Power to the Oven
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tony from Hartford, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.
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Control will not work - only clock blinks
0 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sue from Lampasas, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.
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No current to the burner
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terry from Pensacola, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Checked the burner and no power to heat the burner. removed the old switch and put on the new one.
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shorted out small element burner switch
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Alvie from Walnut Cove, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First, I disconnected the electrical power by pulling apart the plug behind the range. Next, I removed the screws holding the service plate on back of the top panel.I removed the switch knob by gently pulling it from the stem. Underneath I found 2 screws holding the switch in the panel. I removed these with a phillips screwdriver.I was ab
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le to pull the entire switch out to the rear leaving all wires attached.The new switch looked different from the original and the wires were configured differently but the wires were clearly marked. By removing one at a time and placing it on the new switch to the corresponding marking,it was a simple matter to wire the switch.I reinstalled the switch in the panel,put back in the screws to hold the switch, slid the knob back on the stem, reinstalled the rear panel,and plugged the power cord back in.The switch worked perfectly.
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