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CGC3M6WXE Gibson Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the CGC3M6WXE
16 - 30 of 266

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Oven would not heat up
13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Micah from Hallettsville, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Checked internet for possible reasons why oven would not heat.

Found Partselect.com website. Searched and found that ignitor was probably the problem.

Put in my oven model number and found ignitor. Ordered ignitor.

When new ignitor came in I simply removed two screws that held old ignitor and disconnect ed two wire.
Put new ignitor on, replaced screws and wires.

Repair done and oven works great.
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A mouse living in my stove!
15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Amy from Hughestown, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
One night I found a mouse living in my stove. We found it literally living underneath the top of the stove (the part where the burners are that you have to lift up). The insulation on the inside of the stove was literally covered with mouse poop, dog food, dog treats, and scraps of food among other things. It was totally nasty and I thoug ht we would have to buy a new stove. However, I searched online and found replacement insulation on PartSelects website and ordered it. It was cheap and the fix was removing old insulation, vaccuming out and cleaning the stove then replacing the insulation with the new one. PartSelect had a great price and shipped promptly.
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Gas Oven did not come on. Broiler worked.
13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from STAR, ID
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Removed oven door. (Open to first position then lift the door straight up). Located igniter in bottom of oven, followed connecting wires to connection block below oven behind the oven drawer. Disconnected the existing wires. Lifted the burner out of oven to disconnect defective igniter. Screws were fused to the burner. Used vice grips to remove screws requiring the screw holes to be retapped. Bought new screws to replace trashed screws. Installed new igniter to the burner rail then set burner rail back in place. Fished the leads from new igniter back down to connector block. Reinstalled leads. Reinstalled oven door. Tested functionality of oven. Everything worked. Reinstalled metal plates back in oven. Reinstalled cover over connection block behind bottom drawer. Reinstalled drawer. With the exception of fighting with two screws fused to the burner rail it is a very straightforward repair and shouldn’t take much more than 1/2 hour.
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oven would not light
18 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawerance from Fairfax, VT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Lifted top burner plate, removed all knobs, removed front plate that holds oven burner control. Removed burner control feedind thermocouple through hole at top of oven. Installed new oven control, fed t-couple back through hole and placed in holder. Put front plate back in place and re-installed knobs. Oven works great now, lights at 200 * where as before would not light at less than 400* setting. Took only a straight blade and phillips screwdriver to do the job in less than 1 hour, that included cleaning the front plate and knobs while they wereoff.
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My burners would not light. There wasn't the tell tale "click, click, click" of the spark module.
15 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Arkport, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I had to slide the stove out of its cubby and then I removed the two screws holding on the shield. I next removed the wires going to the spark module. I removed the top screw and loosened the bottom one. Installed the new spark module in reverse order. Less than 15 minutes for whole repair. Still have problems with spark module not working if oven is on, but I think it is because there is no air circulation behind the stove.
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Oven wouldn't heat up / ignitor was bad
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Sandusky, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Our original oven ignitor went bad. The gas supply won't even open, unless the oven senses the proper voltage / resistance across the ignitor, so that gas won't be flowing without ignition.

PartSelect was very good about providing me with the proper part, after I got the part number from their schematics and wiring diagrams, on the website. The first replacement part actually arrived, broken, from shipping, but when I called them, they immediately reprocessed the order, and sent me a new ignitor, to arrive the following day. I was very satisfied with their professionalism, as I've been in the past with them, as well.

On to the actual repair:

I removed the broiler drawer from the drawer slides, reached under the main oven chamber, unscrewed the two screws holding the ignitor in place, and cut / disconnected the two wires supplying the power to it.

I then put the new ignitor in place and screwed it back to the mount, used the wire nuts that came with the new ignitor to reconnect / splice the wires, and put the broiler drawer back in place.

Oven fired right up!

Entire process took less than 35 minutes. (Likely would've taken a bit longer, but this is the second replacement for the ignitor, since we've owned this oven, so I already had a good idea how to do it. (The first replacement for this particular part was NOT from PartSelect, so we're hopeful this one lasts a while longer than the previous one.)

Thanks, PartSelect!
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Oven Racks needed to be replaced.
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from Chicago, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Slide out the old; slide in the new!
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Oven would not light
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matt from Verona, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Make sure you unplug the oven before you begin. I removed the old igniter. The top wire on the igniter goes to the back of the oven and plugs into a flat blade type connector. Instead of using the twist wire nut I used a flat connector because it was easier to put on and is foolproof. Make sure you cut the plastic insulation off the c onnector so it does not melt when the oven is in use. I used a wire nut on the other wire and that was it. Very simple and the oven works great again.
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tHE ORIGINAL MODULE DIED AFTER 21 YEARS OF SERVICE
11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jose from El Paso, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First had to move the stove out of its "nest", take the side cover off, remove 1 screw and loosen the other , take the old module out and reverse the operation. That simple.
Part was supplied 1 day before promised date, awesome. Part fitted exactly as the OEM part, works like a charm, everyone happy.
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The oven would not fire up.
12 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • edward from smithtown, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I searched the item I needed and followed a link to PartSelect.com. I paid a little extra for shipping and literally recieved the part in two days. The part was an absolute perfect fit and my wife and myself have never been happier. Home cooked meals again thanks to the folks at PartSelect.com. It couldn't have been an easier.
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Oven would not light
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from LONG BRANCH, NJ
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Working on an old oven is difficult. Please expect the unexpected. The years of heating and cooling play havoc with oven parts. The screws holding the Flat Style Oven Ignitor become stripped. It took extra time to remove them. I had to go to the hardware store to buy replacement screws. Once I removed the old parts and had replacement screws the job was very easy.
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oven would not light -igniter was on
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from South Amboy, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
removed shelves and base, removed 2 screws that held igniter on, disconnected wires from gas valve removed protective cover in corner {1 screw}
disconnected plug, removed igniter. This igniter was easier to remove from front of stove on this model
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One of the two front burners was broken and the second was leaking gas.
10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • PATRICIA from OPA-LOCKA, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Unplug the old ones and the new ones snapped into place.
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The oven would take forever to heat up, and sometimes not at all. Othertimes it would heat up, but not stay hot for the entire baking time.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Los Angeles, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First, I unplugged the oven from the wall. I opened the bottom drawer of the oven to see where the igniter was mounted, which was directly under the bottom pan of the oven itself. I opened the main oven door and unscrewed the 2 screws that were holding the pan to the bottom of the oven. Then, I slid the pan back towards the the back of t he oven and it popped right out.

There were 2 hex screws that were holding the old igniter on, so I unscrewed them with my socket set. I made sure to pay attention to which wire was the top one and which one was the bottom one coming out the back of the igniter. I pulled off the wire nuts connecting the igniter wires to the wires of the oven. I striped the wires on the new igniter and re-attached them to the proper wires of the oven, using the included replacement ceramic wire nuts. I re-screwed the hex nuts in, mounting the new igniter to its proper place. I put the pan back and screwed the 2 screws back in to hold it in place.

Plugged it back in, turned it on, fired up within 20 seconds. Good as new.
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Oven light bulb went dark; it needed replacing
10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lise from CEDAR GROVE, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!
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All Instructions for the CGC3M6WXE
16 - 30 of 266