CFW2000FW2 Crosley Washer - Instructions

It was very easy. I simply unscrewed the 2 screws set the new latch into place and replaced the screws.

There were only two screws that held the door strike/catch in place. I had to fish out the broken plastic piece with a pair of hemostats. The only difficult part about changing the new piece was that I had to find someone with the correct screwdriver to use since it was not a standara screwdriver. Luckily I live next door to a mechanic ... Read more and borrowed his. The two screws came off easilty and I was able to replace it in 2 minutes. I was thrilled that the part that I ordered arrived the next day.

First I pulled the front panel on the washer off, than I unplugged the wires to the pump, took the two screws out that hold the pump, took the two hose clamps off and took it out. To replace I did the reverse.

took off 2 screws and 2 hose clamps put in new part. Put srews and clamp back on less than ten minutes. total cost with shipping $62.00. repair person wanted $265.00.

Unscrewed the broken knob. Screwed the new one one. Voila

pulled the retaining ring then unscrewed 2 screws removed the bad switch and unplugged the old wires then hooked them back to the new switch...this was the second switch in approximately 2 years...

It was very good. They should have mentioned about the wire and spring to remove the rubber strip though. Found out about that in comments! Otherwise, very good!

Easy fix for a verry poor designed door catch. Almost purposeful on the manafactures behalf to make it out of cheap plastic Remove 2 screws replace install 2 screws

I started by removing the two screws at the back of the washer and taking the top off of the washing machine. Than I removed the two screws securing the door lok and switch assembly. I disconected the two or three electrical connections and install the new one in the reverse order.

Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.

New part installed as per repair video - no problems.

Screwed the new part back into place.

The replacement of the Shock Absorber Kit was hampered on the right side by a metal box that was mounted just a little shorter than the bottom plastic pin. the deadblow hammer with the dowel worked with all the pins including the impeded pin and the top right pin which had to be removed at an angle. The replacement did not repair the wash ... Read more er - it is the tub bearing which went in a previous washer of a similar model about 4 years ago.

Removed the back and lower panel in the front of machine. Turned it on its side to replace spring, not tools required. Then stood it up and replaced both shocks by removing plastic pins that hold them in place, no tools required. The only time you need tools is to remove the metal panels to get to the parts. Now it makes no noise and runs ... Read more like a new washer. Paid $140 for the parts, a new machine would have cost over a thousand and would be one of those digital nightmares that don't last as long. This machine is 18 years old.

(This is reply #2 of 2)
After I finally got all of the parts (at least the rear brackets and screws) I found that the panel only had one of two holes for the two horizontal screws.
After drilling a new hole in the left rear bracket position, I discovered that the 2 screws could not be threaded into the bracket pilot holes. They ... Read more t froze up at the top of the taper in the threads. I had to increase the size of the hole 1/64" to get the screws in. There also is a trick to getting the bracket through the punched out hole in the panel- you must angle the bracket corner to corner then apply about 10# of preasure to the bracket to force it through the hole.
Other than that, the panel install went pretty well. Now I have to get the front brackets and springs and screws which are on backorder...