CFW2000FW2 Crosley Washer - Instructions

this repair was easy, but it was repair #3.
#1: Fix-it guy said the front control board needed replaced. Ordered part from box store. Shoulda come here!
#2: Replaced motor control board. Harder to replace. Shoulda let the new front board run error code first. Again, used brand name supplier. Oops!
#3: Still not spinning. Er ... Read more ror code "Door is open" but it's closed.
Remove door lock/switch assy, wires to the front board, and striker. 4 screws, 15 minutes. reached in through the top (did NOT unseat rubber around door).
Plugged wires into door lock. Inserted striker. Using multimeter on "Ohms" tested switch. No continuity=switch not closed.
New switch cost less, arrived faster. thank you Parts Select!

Replaced the old striker with the new one in about 5 minutes. Just needed a phillips screwdriver. Unbelievable how hard it was to find the part at local store...much easier to order from partselect. If I break it again, I will be all set. Part cost $7 vs repairman visit at a cost of at least $200 - - was worth the effort.

first I remove two screws then hold the part in place.

Watched video which was very helpful

Please note that I went online first to get an idea of what was involved.
I removed the back panel using a cordless drill w/attachment for the screws. Then the top. The directions that I received online was very helpful, but I didn't remove the whole tub assembly. I don't recommend doing it my way, but it can be done without removing ... Read more the front or the whole tub assembly. After the motor and the big pulley was removed, I removed the bottom "shocks". I then took out every one of the cap screws that hold the 2 halves together. When that was done the two halves were loose. I then supported the bottom and took out the two springs. The back half came out quite easily then. It is then necessary to use a mallet to remove the inner drum from the bearing and back half of the tub. I cleaned and inspected the "spider" which was fine except it had old soap in it. Then using a dremel tool with a plastic brush I cleaned/polished the shaft of the inner tub. The new rear shell fit perfectly. Supporting the bottom of the front half of the tub, I then placed the back half assembly (with the pulley replaced on the shaft) in proximity and started the cap screws. It is weird how the 2 halves don't want to stay in correct alignment, but it can be done. After I got most of the top screws in, I used a ratchet wrench to tighten them to almost where the 2 halves were touching. That helped with the alignment process. When all (Ibelieve there are around 17 screws) were started and the 2 halves were aligned, I then started at the top and tightened to a loose fit. The second time around I tightened to semi tight. At this time I could put the springs back on (greatly improves ability to reach the bottom screws). The third time around I put them all tight. Every thing went back on without a problem. I attached water and power to the unit and ran a cycle with the top off and checked for leaks. That's it.

Front-loading Frigidaire washer made by Electrolux:
I removed the one phillips screw that secures the drum, but found the vane did not slide toward the front as I'd read it should. Nor was I able to squeeze the base to release it. I ended up using a rubber mallet and screwdriver to spring the snaps at the bottom of the vane. Onc ... Read more e I had two of these on the same side out, I was able to slide the vane forward and remove it. Turns out there was a metal tab, part of the drum, bent into the vane so it couldn't slide for removal. I bent this tab down even with the drum surface, and the new vane slid in easily.

The washer door wouldn't shut. I saw the top piece of the plastic catch appeared to have a broken section. I looked online at the replacement part needed (this was the most difficult part of the process). I unscrewed the old piece and replaced it. No problems. I suspect that this is an engineered flaw with the machine to encourage mo ... Read more re unit sales (it could be metal for instance). So fix it and feel clean!

Ran diagnostic and discovered that the panel did not recognize that the door was locked, thus no spin. I ordered both parts, although I didn't need the door strike/catch. I only needed the locking mechanism. I removed metal ring from around the rubber piece inside the door with needle nose pliers, and then I simply plugged in the new lock ... Read more and screwed it in place. I put the ring back around the rubber piece, flipped the circuit back on and washed a load of clothes. Easy as pie! Teachers can do anything. Who needs a repair man? :)

Vibration/Shock: remove front cover, to remove the shocks depress the tab on the locking pins and push out. Install new shocks and pin in reverse order.

Pump: Disconect power, remove front cover, slowly remove clamp from discharge side of pump and use a sponge or rag to collect water. About one pint will remain in the upper h ... Read more ose. Remove the upper hose after draining. Unplug the power supply to the pump and remove two screws securing the pump to the floor of the washer. Install the new pump and conect wire and hoses.

Once I figured out that the shocks were broken it was very easy to fix. Remove back panel first. Then remove the control box on bottom left corner to gain access to the left shock. Pinch the locking mechanism on the plastic locker bolts and remove the four bolts from both shocks. Replace with new shocks and replace control box and back ... Read more panel. It probably took more time moving the washer to where I could work on it then it did to fix it. Works like new.

The illustarated parts break down on the Part select web site was an awesome resource. It identified the exact part that was damaged by part number and comprehensive drawing. The part was ordered utilizing the drawings and on my doorstep within two working days, regular ground shipping. The securing pins were removed from the damaged shoc ... Read more k absorber by driving them out with a screw driver (used in place of a drift punch) and a rubber mallet. The new shock absorber was placed in position and the securing pins were installed easily by hand and were securely in place when an auditable click was heard from the securing pin when fully engaged. The shock absorber kit came with an additional securing pin in case one of the original pins were damaged. The replacement part was of superior quality to the original.

The previous posts made it dead easy - remove screws at the back holding top in place; slide top back; remove screws holding door latch assembly; disconnect three plugs, and connect new part. Replace fastenings, done! Throw up hands and wait for the official time;)

Unscrewed two screws, replaced door striker and screwed the same two screws back in! I was done in less than 3 minutes!

I unplugged the washer. Then I unscrewed the two screws on the back, top edge of the washer. and lifted the top off. Next I unscrewed the door lock/switch assembly, reached down in the machine from the top and pulled the switch out. As I unplugged each one of the three plugs from the bad part, I plugged them into the corresponding conn ... Read more ections of the good part. Then I screwed the switch back into place, replaced the top of the washer and screwed it back on. I set the washer spin and cheered madly when it went into spin mode. The hardest part was actually turning the screws because I'm a small woman and my hand strength is not what it used to be. But really there was nothing difficult about this repair.

Clear a work space, set up bins for parts, there are a lot of them, so upon removal, put all parts in same place (motor bolts in same box as motor, etc), use a digital camera to capture where everything goes.
Remove back, remove front lower access panel. Remove all plumbing from tug. Remove belt and large pulley from back (tap gen ... Read more tly with mallet around perimeter to remove). Unhook motor wire connector, cut the zip tie. Remove the motor (4 bolts). Separate the front seal, remove the shock absorbers (use a deep socket to push in plastic tabs). Now the fun part, carefully tilt the washer back to the floor (2 people, it is heavy), while supporting the tub, to keep it from over swaying (I cut a 2x4 to size, put it between the tub and the lips of the side walls to keep it in place).
You should now be able to remove the springs (leverage them out with old screw driver), clear all parts from the tub. You can then lift the washer housing from the tub vertically. You should then be able to access the tub clearly. Remove the counter weights, set aside carefully, they are fragile. Remove the bolts holding the tub together.
Tap out the tub.
Reverse the process to put back together. Careful not to over tighten the bolts on counter weights or motor.