CFES367DQ3 Frigidaire Wall Oven - Instructions

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.

First you must disconnect power by throwing the circuit breaker off.You need to pull knobs from cook top. check underside to see if it is mounted to counter top, mine was not. Then raise the cook top and support bottom with 2x2's. Mine had three main screws in front, one on the sides and two in the back. The other thing you need to do is loosen the metal plates that have two screws on each plate. Three plates in front, two on each side and three in back. Once these are loosen, you can lift the stove top up to reveal the indicator lights. I found it was easier to support the top with a pan or something while working on it. Replace your indicator light and put everything back together.. It really wasn't to bad.

Turn off breaker to the oven. Removed four knows by pulling them up and out. Using either a large flat blade screwdriver or adjustable wrench (depending upon stove top model) remove threaded style holders at each burner switch control to remove the glass clock control top panel. Remove glass panel and note ldgasket position. Place glass panel on top of stove top on a cloth towel to prevent scratches. Remove 8 screws and remove/lift up burner control assembly. Invert and place on its side to gain access to broken contol switch. Took a picture of wiring and close up off switch to help remember where each wire plugs into switch. Remove 2 Phillips screws from the old switch and remove from panel. Using a flat blade screwdriver gently remove one wire at a time and using knob to orientate the off position of the new switch. Remove each wire one at a time and install on the new switch. Compare numbers on both the old and new switch to assist where each wire goes. The numbers are beside each terminal and using a flashlight and magnifying glass will help making the job easier. DO NOT mix the wires up. Use the 2 longer screws and threaded bracket supplied fasten the new switch to the glass panel. Reinstall the glass panel using the screws removed and thread on clips at each switch and tighten using a large flat blade screwdriver. Be sure to route the wiring to not pinch the wires and install the gasket along the front edge which fills the gap along the burner top and side for a tight seal keeping water and food particles out. The infinite control switch has letters such as H1, H2 etc as the switch fits several models with different wiring diagrams and colours so it's impt to note this when transferring the old wires to the new switch. Also the gasket along the top glass edge ensure to note exactly how it is placed to reinstall to be exact when you reassemble. Replace the 4 control knobs by pushing them on after aligning to fit as they were removed. New switch should be positioned the same as the others with off at the top and a notable click. Be sure to note this when transferring wires from the old to new switch. Turn breaker on. Note: If you have minimal skills this should be left to someone who is an electrician or has repair experience in this field.

Turned off breaker to range then removed all element control knobs. Unscrewed retaining collars I suppose is a good word removed panel. Then removed bad switch installed removed one wire at a time and placed on new switch in proper places. Reassembled in reverse order turned breaker back on worked perfect.

I was required to remove the control panel to access the plug as it had been broken and the switch had been shoved into the unit . It would have been extremely simple if the plug had remained on the outside surface
My son can now clean his dirty oven

Extremely easy. Two screws and electric connection that had easy pop on-off connection.

I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did some reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first

Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws.
Saved $150 on a service repair call.

2 screws disconnected old one and pulled out the new one in put in opposite way. The representative was so helpful, part came fast. thank you

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

Pulled range out from cabinet, removed back plate, two screws inside oven attaching the temp sensor. Then pulled the sensor and wire through from back. Reverse to replace about Ten minutes
OEM parts plug in same, works great

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

Removed the door from the range, disassembled the door, removed all broken glass fragments, installed the new glass, reassembled the door and reinstalled the door into the range. Straightforward and easy. Keep track of which screws go where and it is a breeze.