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CFES355EB1 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the CFES355EB1
16 - 30 of 192

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Block terminal burnt out, hot plate not working, needed to replace the terminal block
17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shaun from Whitehall, MD
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.
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burner wont heat all of the time
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daivid from North Attleboro, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed old terminal block . cut wires and spliced new terminal block and insulated with shrink wrap. Very eazy
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Oven would not maintain correct set temperature.
17 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from RAINBOW CITY, AL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed electrical connector and two screws. Attached the electrical connector to the new probe and attached with the two screws.
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Noticed oven was heating but upper element not coming on.
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from LEXINGTON, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.
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burner wouldnt heat
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Doug from Ashton, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
removed element , cut wires, conected wires,replaced element
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Oven Door Light Switches Wrecked by Heat from Oven
12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Croton-on-Hudson, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
Pull old switches out with pliers and replugged new switches. On main oven, plug casing was melted (wife left broiler on with oven door closed) so had to break apart old casing and individually plug the the wires into new switch and amazingly, it worked! Just gotta keep the door open when broiling.............
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Replacement bowels didn’t fit
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from ROEBUCK, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Pulled the heating elements out took the bowels out that didn’t fit, threw them away and replaced them with the perfectly fitting bowels from this site and replaced the heating elements.
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wiring was burnt off to burner
12 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Margaret from Portage "BlueKnob", PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The range, (1988 Tappan) was givin to the church by one of our members. While using it, --after a period of time-- the wire burnt off to one of the burners. Since the couple gave us a brand new top for the stove that was still in the box, we decided to fix the stove up.
Now, with new wiring to all four burners, new shiney drip pans and,,,,a new top, we have a very new looking stove for in our church kitchen.
The parts I ordered from PartsSelect, came in just a few days of placing the order,
This is one site that I have wrote down in my address book for any future parts to items we may need.
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Oven wouldn’t get up to temperature
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Al from THORNTOWN, IN
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My ov en is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor
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terminal block kit needed for two burners
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Geraldine from MT HOOD PRKDL, OR
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was either fix the terminal blocks or buy a new stove. Our appliance man told us how we could do this ourselves and sent us a link. In the meantime I'd found yours, which was quite a bit cheaper and it too, came with a How To Video. Very easy!! All the parts fit and work beautifully and all for under a hundred dollars! We replaced two terminal block, one element and all 4 drip bowls! Nice friendly service!
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Oven light bulb went dark; it needed replacing
10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lise from CEDAR GROVE, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!
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Needed new drip bowls.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Oradell, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Pulled out heating elements. Removed old drip bowls. Inserted new drip bowls and re-installed heating elements.

I was extremely pleased with the very quick delivery of needed parts.
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Broken burner switch. Would not shut off.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Douglas from PONCE INLET, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Turn off breaker to the oven. Removed four knows by pulling them up and out. Using either a large flat blade screwdriver or adjustable wrench (depending upon stove top model) remove threaded style holders at each burner switch control to remove the glass clock control top panel. Remove glass panel and note ldgasket position. Place glass p anel on top of stove top on a cloth towel to prevent scratches. Remove 8 screws and remove/lift up burner control assembly. Invert and place on its side to gain access to broken contol switch. Took a picture of wiring and close up off switch to help remember where each wire plugs into switch. Remove 2 Phillips screws from the old switch and remove from panel. Using a flat blade screwdriver gently remove one wire at a time and using knob to orientate the off position of the new switch. Remove each wire one at a time and install on the new switch. Compare numbers on both the old and new switch to assist where each wire goes. The numbers are beside each terminal and using a flashlight and magnifying glass will help making the job easier. DO NOT mix the wires up. Use the 2 longer screws and threaded bracket supplied fasten the new switch to the glass panel. Reinstall the glass panel using the screws removed and thread on clips at each switch and tighten using a large flat blade screwdriver. Be sure to route the wiring to not pinch the wires and install the gasket along the front edge which fills the gap along the burner top and side for a tight seal keeping water and food particles out. The infinite control switch has letters such as H1, H2 etc as the switch fits several models with different wiring diagrams and colours so it's impt to note this when transferring the old wires to the new switch. Also the gasket along the top glass edge ensure to note exactly how it is placed to reinstall to be exact when you reassemble. Replace the 4 control knobs by pushing them on after aligning to fit as they were removed. New switch should be positioned the same as the others with off at the top and a notable click. Be sure to note this when transferring wires from the old to new switch. Turn breaker on. Note: If you have minimal skills this should be left to someone who is an electrician or has repair experience in this field.
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Temperature in the oven was not consistent
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cheryl from PRAIRIEVILLE, LA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Turn off power to the electric oven
2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet.
3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job.
4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge.
5. Unplugged sensor
6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front.
7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws.
8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor.
9. Replace the back and replace the screws.
10. Slide oven back into the wall.
11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame.
12. Turn power back on
Check the temperature
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Error Code F1
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jon from Little Silver, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did s ome reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first
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All Instructions for the CFES355EB1
16 - 30 of 192