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CFEF372EC4 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the CFEF372EC4
16 - 30 of 142

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The hinges were worn out and the door would not close.
25 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Guadalupe from Bakersfield, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the door with instructions from the owners manual, printed out the door parts diagram from your web site to determine how to take door apart to replace old hinges with the new ones, what took long was cleaning the door glass surfaces while I had the door apart being carful not to break the glass, do not use a green pad to clean the dirty film from cooking on the glass surfaces I did and it left scratches on the glass. I used alot of common sense and reversed the takeing the door apart process to put is back together.
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Oven would not maintain correct set temperature.
17 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from RAINBOW CITY, AL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed electrical connector and two screws. Attached the electrical connector to the new probe and attached with the two screws.
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Noticed oven was heating but upper element not coming on.
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from LEXINGTON, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.
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Replaced Bake Element
12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sandy from Baileys Harbor, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Based on previous responses we anticipated this repair to be easy, however, it was a little more challenging than expected. The method of repair was easy enough, just would have been better if there had been more wire to pull out to connect to the new bake element. It took two of us to fish for the wires back inside the stove with a needl e-nose pliers after removing the element. One had to hold the wire with the pliers while it took the other to attach it to the new element with second pair of pliers as there was no room for using fingers. Retrieving and attaching the second wire to the element was even more challenging because now the half-attached element was in the way. Disappointed and not sure why the element burned out in the first place on a 4year old appliance.
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Old element connections different from new element
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frederic from KILLEEN, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Disconnected power at breaker. Removed cooktop mounting screws, lifted top and propped in up position. Removed two screws and lowered two front burners mounting frame. Wiggled dual element free at the clips and proceeded to swap wires one at a time and realized the difference with connectors 1a and 2b much later when only the center porti on was heating up. Finally figured out the problem and everything works as advertised. Pay attention if you own a Kenmore product.
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Oven Door Light Switches Wrecked by Heat from Oven
12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Croton-on-Hudson, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
Pull old switches out with pliers and replugged new switches. On main oven, plug casing was melted (wife left broiler on with oven door closed) so had to break apart old casing and individually plug the the wires into new switch and amazingly, it worked! Just gotta keep the door open when broiling.............
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Oven wouldn’t get up to temperature
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Al from THORNTOWN, IN
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My ov en is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor
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Element Burn out
25 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jesse from Forest, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Self easy

PS Great service Super FAST.
Thanks Jesse
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Oven Door wouldn't staty closed & dropped open HARD
22 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • April from Centennial, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
On a beautiful Saturday morning, we began the oven repair by argueing about who should hold the door, and who should use the screwdriver, we managed to remove the oven door by unscrewing 8 screws (2 top, 2 each side, 2 bottom). The bottoms were the most difficult as the incredible hulk must have done the original assembly. The door was he avy & awkward and the new hinges have a little lock that must be unlocked in order to hook it inside the frame. Of course the screwdrivers we had all had long handles, so after some shouting about where all the shorter handled ones were, I found a stubbie at which my husband gave me a dirty look. After more grunting & shouting we got the door back on.
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One section of heating element failed to heat.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fred from VESTAL, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed on-line instructions to remove the defective heating element. Some connection tabs on the replacement unit were different than the original. One tab was too wide to accept the stove's slip-on wire connector without fling down the tab width on the heating element. Thanks to some on-line instructions, wire connections to element 1a and 2a had to be reversed. If not for those instructions I would probably have ended up sending the unit back to the supplier, as an incorrect replacement !
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2 elements stopped working.
9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ruth from MORGANTOWN, WV
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
My husband followed the video instructions and it was easy to fix.
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Oven light bulb went dark; it needed replacing
10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lise from CEDAR GROVE, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!
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Bake element stopped working
9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from ROCHESTER, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. SHUT OFF POWER TO YOUR RANGE! (I flipped the circuit breaker at the box to do this. To be totally safe, you can shut off the power to the whole house.) 2. Remove the oven racks. 3. Undo the two screws (save for step 8) holding the bake element in place. (This took some doing for me, as the screws did not want to come out easily. May be use some penetrating oil and be careful not to strip the screws.) 4. Gently pull the bake element toward you, exposing the contacts and wires. 5. Remove the wires from the old element's contacts. (Remember which contact 6. Attach the wires to the new element's contacts. 7. CAREFULLY push the wires back into the wall of the oven. (Pay attention to the insulation. Make sure that some insulation is near the wall.) 8. Fasten element to wall of oven with screws you saved from step 2.
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Controller fails to hold a constant heating element tempature
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from WYOMING, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
The replacement of this part is simple enough, out with the old, in with the new. At issue here is the way the controller fails. The heating element goes to the highest temperature. The original controller on this Kenmore oven failed after about two years and the first replacement that I got from you lasted about a year and a half. T he defective controllers seem to be working properly once the controller has been turned off and then restarted, but the frequency of failure increases with time until you hardly dare to step away from the oven. This controller should open on failyor, not close.

George Ritz
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Temperature in the oven was not consistent
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cheryl from PRAIRIEVILLE, LA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Turn off power to the electric oven
2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet.
3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job.
4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge.
5. Unplugged sensor
6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front.
7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws.
8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor.
9. Replace the back and replace the screws.
10. Slide oven back into the wall.
11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame.
12. Turn power back on
Check the temperature
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All Instructions for the CFEF372EC4
16 - 30 of 142