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CFEF317GSB Frigidaire Range - Instructions
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oven not heating display light out
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Manning from Medley, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
first i remove cover, then i unscrew defective part, remove wires. i then install new part & replace marked wires . I then replace cover, turn on oven and holla! my oven is working.
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switch had a diffirent lug configuration
9 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Andrews, SC
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!
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Refrigerator Light bulb went out
7 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ANGELA from MEBANE, NC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.
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Rusted leveling foot
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melinda from Three Rivers, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.
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Both front burners began heating too fast and too high. One damaged the finish on the splash pan.
7 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from WILMINGTON, DE
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief:
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests usin ... Read more g a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.
I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.
Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests usin ... Read more g a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.
I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.
Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.
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Other Parts Used:
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Broken ; oven door inner glass
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Garland Futrell from CHESAPEAKE, VA
- Very Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.
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Crack in inner door glass
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Richmond, IN
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
Removed two screws that are attached to handle then removed four screws from bottom edge of oven door. I was then able to remove the outer door glass,this gave me access to the three inner glasses. After removing the retainer for the glass assembly,I was able to remove all three and replace the inner one.I reversed this proceedure to re
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assemble.
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L.F. large burner element either on full hot or off. Would not cycle in and out with element control switch setting.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gerald from MADISON HTS, VA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it starte
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d but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.
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crummy chrome drip pans were worn out. replaced wtih enamel ones.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Katherine H. from SEAL BEACH, CA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I just pulled the old ones out of the sockets, cleaned underneath, and replaced with new ones. No-brainer.
Other Parts Used:
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The oven and broiler element would not heat.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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donald from SACRAMENTO, CA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The elements tested good. Figured it was the electronic clock timer/control using the sites repair guidance and ordered the part. The remove and replace was very easy. Pulled the stove out, removed back panel and removal and replacement of the part is pretty basic. Be sure and unplug the appliance first. Everything works fine now.
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Burners getting too hot.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leslie from CONCORD, NC
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Watch video. This oven had the connecters that popped off and on which made this task easy.
Other Parts Used:
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Burning electrical smell and "buzzing"
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Louis from Beloit, WI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block ... Read more clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block ... Read more clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
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Both heating elements stopped heating at the same time
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Chad from Murfreesboro, TN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Discovered that that oven control panel was to blame for both heating elements to stop working at the same time. Went online and ordered the part which was delivered in 2 days. Installation very basic and included the following: 1)Pulled out stove and un-plugged stove 2)Removed top rear panel 3) Removed 4 screws of the damaged control
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panel (leaving all wires plugged in) 4)Installed new control panel and connected wires one by one to make sure done correctly 5) Replaced rear panel plugged in stove testing oven.
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Oven would not heat
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joe from Spanishfork, UT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed four srews from bak of the oven so I could get to the timer. Then I unplugged the oven swapped out the wires put everything back together. Plug it back in and started the oven. Work great. Also you must remove the timer faceplate carefully or you will peel off the white.
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Old racks had melted plastic on them.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from PAINESVILLE, OH
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
It was a replace racks not repair. No problem
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