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CEW3330ACB Magic Chef Wall Oven - Instructions

All Instructions for the CEW3330ACB
91 - 105 of 144

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Oven would not heat on Back Cycle
  • Jeff from Thousand Oaks, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resi stance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.
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oven temperature only goes to 275 degrees even when set higher; broiler works
  • Anne Marie from Huntingdon Valley, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I watched the video, which was very helpful...the temperature sensor was hard to pull through the small opening in the upper back left oven corner. On the back wall of the oven was a large removable circle, so I unscrewed that piece and was able to gain access to the wires attached to the temperature sensor and push it through the small opening. I used one of the new connectors, pushed it back through the small opening, screwed it back onto the oven wall, replaced the circle opening and tried the oven again...unfortunately, there was no improvement in oven temperature! My JennAir wall oven is about 17 years old, and I thought I would try this $30 repair prior to purchasing a new wall oven, but it looks like I will have to do some overtime and buy a new oven. Any other suggestions would be welcome.
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Element in oven would not adjust to the oven temperature.
  • Dolores from Edmond, OK
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I ordered the temperature sensor after watching the video and seeing how easily it could be changed out. Unfortunately, they don't tell you that it may be necessary to access the part from the back. When I tried removing the sensor from inside the oven the connection separated before getting to the hole. I tried for 4 days to try to fi sh out the other end. Finally, I had my brother help me remove the oven from the wall and take the back off at which time we were able to connect the new sensory. It turns out that the wiring is on the upper right hand corner of the oven and the sensor is on the upper left hand corner and the wiring is rather short. I am a 64 year old female and do the majority of repairs around the house myself, but due to the weight of removing the oven I enlisted the help of my brother. After removing from the wall the rest was a breeze. Just wish the videos or written info on the website was a little more clear as to the different ways of accessing the damaged part.
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F1 Error code indicated bad Control Board
  • Bruce from richmond, AL
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
First, let me say that the (built-in, electric) oven I was working on was made sold by Kenmore, but the error code and, possibly the repair might apply to many other brands. I was getting a beeping sound and an F1 Error Code on the display of the "clock, timer, control board". On-line research said "you're control board needs to be repl aced. I spent days looking for a cheap, new one ($400 for a factory replacement did not appeal to me). Then, I tried "re-setting" the control board. In my case, it took- turning off the power to the oven, turning power back on, pressing and holding "clear". After 30 seconds the beeping stopped. 45 seconds later the error code went away and the oven worked. I opened it up and carefully tested everything with a meter while it was on.It has been working flawlessly for two weeks now. So, the repair took me weeks and also less than two minutes, plus time to give it a check-up. Hope this helps. P.S. I had to say that I used a part in order to post this, I did, but not for this repair.
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Fan runs continually ,door locked,error code f2,f3,f7
  • John from Dacula, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off breaker,opened door with bent coat hanger by sliding right to left the coat hanger to open the door, remover 2 screws holding in the sensor in upper left corner of the oven. Remove the sensor (gently) with the wire connection from back of oven pulling sensor out a out 8 inches . Disconnect plug. Install new sensor with m atched harness /.connection, installed 2 screws ,turned on breaker.
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temperature varied in oven.couldn't set
  • tom from winter haven, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed 2 screws in probe and pulled it out.had to take back off as wire was tangled from factory and couldn't do quick repair
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Oven would not program and would shut down
  • Sreve from Deland, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The "PartsSelect" General discription of the parts funtion helped me to confirm my suspitions that there was some form of temperature registering problem. I whatched the short video they provided on how to change the part out, even though, in this case, it's pretty self explanitory.The part was in my hands a day erlier than promised and i n reality, much earlier than I had anticipated from the beginng. It took me all total, 20 minutes to exchange the part out and have the oven in operation again.
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Oven randomly turned off and locked
  • Robert from homilton, MT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replace the oven sensor per the excelent easy video you provided
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The oven was not heating up to temperature
  • Max from Bothell, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electroni c clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards
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Range had an F-2 code on the control panel
  • Greg from Frederick, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one using the supplied wiring adapter for my model of range. Parts Select made this an easy project. Thanksyou
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My oven was not holding temperature.
  • Anthony from Acworth, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.
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Inside Door Glass Broke
  • Donn from South Plainfield, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Repair was super easy, Remove Screws. (the hardest part was trying to remove the edging of the door without cracking it, or breaking the tabs used to secure it) Once I got the edges off, I slid the front of the door off, removed the screws and braces holding the outer glass. Picked out the broken pieces, cleaned all the glass and inside the door and put it all back together. If I didn't clean everything, it would've taken half the time.
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I had a power serge and it burned the Plug at the termial block and melted a few wire.
  • Robin from Vanderbilt, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.
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Upper oven shut down after reaching temperature
  • Earl from Globe, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in pla ce and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.
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Oven tempature varies.
  • Wilfred from Hoover, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
We took the back off the stove and unscrewed the two screws from the inside holding the sensor on and pulled it through and plugged it in and then replaced the screws. Very easy. We are still having trouble as the display does not read the same as the tempature is in the oven.
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All Instructions for the CEW3330ACB
91 - 105 of 144