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CER3760ACQ Magic Chef Range - Instructions
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oven would not come up to temp. that was set
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Green Lane, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Replacing the sensor kit and door gasket was no problem at all, however the baking element was A different story.
The problem was not the fault of the replacement part, but
the removal of the element to be replaced. The phillips head screws stripped out very easy and getting them out without damage to the interior finish of the ... Read more oven was time consuming and challenging, but patients, and perservrance
win and so did I. Oven now works great
The problem was not the fault of the replacement part, but
the removal of the element to be replaced. The phillips head screws stripped out very easy and getting them out without damage to the interior finish of the ... Read more oven was time consuming and challenging, but patients, and perservrance
win and so did I. Oven now works great
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The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the ... Read more wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the ... Read more wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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Front left burner quit after bright flash under glass top
11 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian L. from Wilkes-Barre, PA
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the origina
... Read more
l unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect
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Inner Galls on door was craked
8 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Randall from Katy, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought
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Broil element broke/burned out
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jonathan from Woonsocket, RI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I just bought my first condo and sure enough something broke in my oven. I thought "Oh great - I'll need to buy a new one..." After some research and a friend's advice - I was assured that I only needed to replace the broiler element. After researching the issue I googled replacement parts which led me to this web-site. I was amazed h
... Read more
ow easy and inexpensive it was for me to replace the part. The directions were easy, simple, and spot-on! The instructions that were provided were easy to follow. I also utilized YouTube instructions as well for additional visual guidance. The shipping was super fast and the element was packaged very well. Thank you so much!
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broil element burn out
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JORGE from CANTONMENT, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Shipped on timely manner,I will order again from Part Select, installing was a 15 minute job, that what I did, 1 unplugged stove, 2) removed 4 screws, (2 on top bracket and 2 on back) , 3) slide unit out couple inches enough to disconnected the wires from each end of unit and removed old part, installed new unit by reconnecting end wir
... Read more
es, pushing unit slowly toward back of oven until wires find it's right position, set it back in place with the 2 screws on top bracket and 2 screws on back, done!!
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my oven would not heat to proper temp
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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mark from CHAMBERLAIN, SD
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. T
... Read more
his repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !
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Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from FREDERICK, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answer ... Read more ed my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answer ... Read more ed my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
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Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Ashland, OR
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull
... Read more
the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
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Heating element broke, needed replacement
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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thomas from LOUISVILLE, KY
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Repairman wanted $99 just to come look at it, then the cost to fix it. I got online, found the part, 2 screws and $40 later and all fixed. Wife baked me an apple pie that evening, better than ever!
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Oven sensor caused cooling fan to run continuously. Had to flip breaker to get it to turn off..
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Aubrey from EADS, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.
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the left front burner burned out & none of the lights to show if a burner was hot would come on.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Fair oaks Ranch, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
FIrst we found the power source ( this took us awhile) and cut the power at the fuse box. then we unplugged the cooktop and started to take out screws. It turned out the screw removal had nothing to do with the stove top coming out. We took the taping knife & pried it under a corner and lifted. the cook top was just sitting on the count
... Read more
er.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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broiler element would not heat up.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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debbie from walden, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
not to offend anybody but what i learned on prior posts helped alot..
1. remove unit and unplug.
2. remove door by opening to 45 degree angle and lifting door face towards you.
3. remove back panel to unit.e.
4.unscrew burner element from back inside of oven.
5.gently pry clip off each off burner element from r ... Read more ear of unit. Pull gently towards you.
6.unscrew support from inside oven.
7. remove old element and just reverse directions to reinstall.
1. remove unit and unplug.
2. remove door by opening to 45 degree angle and lifting door face towards you.
3. remove back panel to unit.e.
4.unscrew burner element from back inside of oven.
5.gently pry clip off each off burner element from r ... Read more ear of unit. Pull gently towards you.
6.unscrew support from inside oven.
7. remove old element and just reverse directions to reinstall.
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oven wouldn't heat. Lower element only .
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
harry from chapel hill, NC
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then tried to pull the element out to disconnect the wires attached to the clips. The left side came right out. The right side would not. Had to pull the range out from the wall
(would only come out about a foot and a half due to the gas line connection). Removed ... Read more the back (2 screws). Removed the clip from the element from the rear and redirected the wire into the oven. Replaced the back, pushed the oven back, attached the wire clip and screwed the element in place. Works fine. This is definitely a job not requiring an electrician.
(would only come out about a foot and a half due to the gas line connection). Removed ... Read more the back (2 screws). Removed the clip from the element from the rear and redirected the wire into the oven. Replaced the back, pushed the oven back, attached the wire clip and screwed the element in place. Works fine. This is definitely a job not requiring an electrician.
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