CDE851 Maytag Range - Instructions

The replacement switch was not exactly as my original and none of the other instructions matched exactly with my unit. So I had to figure it out, but they matched mostly what Micheal from Colliervile wrote. Safety is paramount. Turn off circuit breaker and ensure there is no power to unit with a test light. You don't have to remove the g ... Read more lass top. Open oven door and remove 4 screws at bottom of control panel, then remove two screws on each end while suppoting the panel with one hand. Rest control panel on top of door or hang by wires. Remove two screws to detach switch from panel. I took pictures of the wire placement on old switch and drew a diagram of what color wire went to each terminal. I used the instruction sheet diagram of new switch and marked where each wire color goes. Here is where I put them: DOUBLE BLACK to L1,2; New jumper from P1 to S1; RED to 2: DOUBLE RED to P2; new jumper with small connector from S2 to "element on" indicator lamp (it's longer than and replaces existing jumper); YELLOW to 4a; TAN to 4. The letters in parenthesis on the instruction sheet almost matched up to my old switch so I used them to help with the placement. I didn't have to seperate any compound red wires. Double check wire placement and put it all back together in reverse order.

The frame and window were supplied as a completed assembly. About 4 other panels had to be removed prior to installing the new window assembly. This was easy to do with a screwdriver removing about 16 screws and then replacing all panels back in place after replacing the new window assembly. No instructions were supplied with the part ... Read more , but anyone with a little mechanical abillity could do it. You may need a helper to hold panels in place while they were being screwed back in place. Total job took about one hour

First step is turn the power to the range off. Then I removed the grate covering the down draft vent in the center of the cook top. Inside the vent opening are two screws that secure a panel that holds the four knobs that control temperature settings. Remove these screws. Slide the panel tward the back of the range while lifting it up. T ... Read more his will allow removal of the panel. Remove the knob from the burner control you are replacing. Under the knob are two screws. Remove the screws and let the controller drop out of the cover panel. Take the new switch and carefully remove the wires from the old controller and place them on the new controller in the same position. When the wires have been connected, put the controller back in the control panes and secure it with the two screws. Replace the panel back into the cook top. Tilt the control panel so the front is low and the back is elevted. Engage the lugs protuding out on each side of the control panel opening. Lower the panel back into the opening and secure it with the two remaining screws. Replace the control knob and you are done. You just saved yourself a $125.00 service call. Total cost for the controller $35.00.

Removed the door then the end caps and inner panel then the hinge system and replaced with the one piece new set of hinges and back together done in 30 to 45 minutes The new parts were a perfect replacement.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..fo ... Read more r TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

We panicked cause even simple repairs on these products cost and cost.....but we remained calm and ordered the exact part necessary from you. It arrived in just 3 days and once we had the part in hand it was easy to understand how to replace it. We disassembled the door with screwdrive and swapped the broken part with the new one. The ... Read more one gotcha was that we were not aware of the shipping pin holding the spring and we struggled for a few trying to get the door closed all the way. Once we discovered the pin and removed it, it was fixed and we were PLEASED!

Thank you,
Louise and Rickl

turned off electricity at the circuit breaker.Pulled stove out and looked at the way the control center was attached to the rest of the stove. Removed the knobs and 4 screws and the complete panel could be removed (or pulled out from the oven-wires are still all attached). Then checked with an electric meter to insure the power was off ... Read more to all the wires. The clock is a self contained unit and all I had to do was to remove 4 screws holding a face plate, replace the unit and reverse the procedure. Only problem I had was getting the screws back into the face plate (I was only able to get 2 threaded-but that will hold for the life of the stove) and put it alll back together. It works wonderfully.

I had a repair company on the phone who said that the service call would be $185 and if I was right about the clock being the problem, that would cost another $345 for the clock and $85 for the return service call to install. I ordered the part from PartSelect .com on Sunday, had it by Thursday and installed that night. My cost was $195 vs approx $600. Why would you do anything else?

Removed fan housing from under stove and replaced motor. Biggest job was cleaning the fan housing as a lot of kitchen grease had accmulated of the life of the stove.

Replaced receptacle but it was not the problem. After further inspection I believe that the problem is the switch. The switch is on order now from Part Select.

Just removed the broken vent cover.
Injected foaming sealant.
Pushed on the vent cover plate.
Screwed it in place.
More foaming sealant.
Clipped on the flapper and secured the cover.

take door off. remove screws holding door together, take door apart. remove worn seal. install new seal. reposition insulation and door window at the appropriate location. begin re-assembling door in reverse order making sure that apprpriate pressure is applied to keep the seal in place. re-attach door to hinges. project worked out well. ... Read more new seal looks great. would have been a costly repair if I called a professional. I'm handy, but things like this are often hard the first time. you have to take your time and be cognizant of putting it back together the way you took it apart.

I replaced the hinges as described in other posts and the problem was solved. When the oven was 2 years old it had the same problem but the hinges should not have fatigued at that point. The engineering problem someone mentioned is that the pin of the light switch is too short. I touched it with lipstick, closed the oven door, and opened ... Read more the door to see exactly where the door touched the pin. I drilled a small hole in the door and screwed in a self tapping metal screw...problem solved for 8 years until the hinges fatigued. After replacing the hinges I tried removing the screw but the light stayed on so I put the screw back.

First, I made sure the circuit breaker was off to the oven. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place , pulled the element out a few inches and eased the wires apart at the metal connectors. I eased in the new wires, put the two screws back in, and voila. In under five minutes, the oven was fixed.

I have bought several drip bowls over the years. They all seemed to not fit just right. These are perfect! Thanks!

I changed out the infinite switch without any problems. The indicator light was another problem. It wasn't the light that was bad, it was the indicator light lens that snaps into the panel. The light then attaches to the lense. The lense broke and the indicator light pulled away with the tension on the wires. Now I have to order replaceme ... Read more nt lens and will have a spare indicator light.