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CCGS985SET4SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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Igniter did not produce enough heat to light oven.
10 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cecil from Abbeville, MS
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Disconnect power. Remove oven door, oven racks, bottom pan, drawer below the oven. unsnap igniter wire connector. Remove two screws holding the igniter in place, remove igniter.
Install igniter (placing igniter wires away from any heat producing parts) and all parts in reverse order as they were removed.
Oven heats g ... Read more ood now, makes great cornbread and biscuits, the wife helps the oven do this.
Install igniter (placing igniter wires away from any heat producing parts) and all parts in reverse order as they were removed.
Oven heats g ... Read more ood now, makes great cornbread and biscuits, the wife helps the oven do this.
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Oven light did not work
9 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Howard from Rio Vista, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.
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oven wouldn't ignite
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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michael from evansville, WI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 yea
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r old oven,it was very easy/.
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Oven would not heat
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Andrew from Alexandria, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Socket set
This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.
First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.
This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one s ... Read more crew at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.
The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.
This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.
I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.
The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.
Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.
When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.
I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.
First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.
This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one s ... Read more crew at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.
The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.
This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.
I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.
The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.
Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.
When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.
I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.
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Warped burner
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ray from LEESVILLE, SC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Set the burner in place
Other Parts Used:
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Light not working tried to Remove light assembly not knowing glass could screw out. Without thinking grounded exposed hot wire to burner bracket melting light socket connector. Had to replace socket.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from CUMMING, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.
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Ignter would glow but gas valve wouldn't open
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter R. from Riverside, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the door and the racks, and the flame spreader. I removed the 4"X6" shield loosen the circular flap to plug the new igniter to the recepticle. Turn the oven on to check the operation and if it comes on, button it back up. remember open the oven door approx 3" and pull upwords to remove the door. I would say 90% of the time the i
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gniter is the problem.
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Igniter went bad
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Willie from Shreveport, LA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Unplug from electrical outlet. 2. Turn off gas valve. 3. Remove oven door. 4. Remove bottom drawer. 5. Remove oven shelves. 6. Remove oven floor, take out the two screws at the rear. 7. Unplug the igniter from the wire harness, you can reach it from where you removed the drawer. 8. Remove the igniter, by unscrewing the two bolts using
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your nut driver. 9. Replace with new igniter. 10. Put everything back together, starting with # 9 and work your way to #1.
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Hole burned through deflector oven and metal dropped onto igniter and burned it out
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Scott from ARDMORE, PA
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver
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Gas oven igniter for a GE Profile XL44
8 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carolyn from Oakdale, AL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Once we knew which part was needed, we went on to your site and orded the part. It was delivered the next day! Partselect.com is bookmarked on every computer in our household, including mobiles. It's great to know there is such a fantastic resource for do-it-youselfers. It took 5 minutes to remove the old igniter and plug in the new. A
... Read more
screwdriver is the only tool required.
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Burnt burner
7 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Janine from Wind Gap, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Just put it on. Quite proud of myself for figuring out what and how to get the part however! The website was very helpful.
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Original burner cap was chipping; must have been dropped somewhere along the line.
8 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mitzi from Briarcliff Manor, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
New burner cap replaced old; just placed over burner; no tools required.
One suggestion: burner cap should have been shipped with thicker bubble protection (easy to do). It was minimally wrapped and placed in a thin, bubble envelope, risking damage in shipping process. Luckily, the burner arrived in tact and usable.
One suggestion: burner cap should have been shipped with thicker bubble protection (easy to do). It was minimally wrapped and placed in a thin, bubble envelope, risking damage in shipping process. Luckily, the burner arrived in tact and usable.
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temperture
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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mel from LOGAN, UT
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
replace sensor
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wire connection to socket was bad
6 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Gansevoort, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.
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The knob dial skirts are made of plastic and become warped with the heat
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Nora from WINTER PARK, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I had really hoped these new knob dual skirts would be made of metal and therefore superior to the ones that came with the oven, but alas, these are also made of plastic. It was easy to screw them into place although they didn’t come with screws I just used the old screws. I sure hope they last longer than the originals!
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