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CC12HR Amana - Instructions

All Instructions for the CC12HR
61 - 75 of 87

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Surface Burner not working
  • Cody from Abilene, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I lifted the stove top and cut the two wire connected to the block. Attached the new wire connectors, new block and checked to make sure it was working. The part that took the longest was getting the screw out of the mounting brracked(it was corroded on). I sprayed some WD40 and waited 5 minuts, it came loose. Then i mounted the new b racket and installed the burner. double checked everything and lowered the top. Done
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bad control switch for stovetop burner
  • Thomas from Two Harbors, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Move stove away from wall to allow working on back of stove. Unplug stove. Remove metal cover from top rear of stove. Pull control knob off of control (front of stove) Remove 2 screws holding infinite control in place (front of stove) Replacement control not identical to original control, having more terminal lugs and different physical a rrangement. I used the terminal letters as a guide for placement of wires. The letters were not exactly the same, but close enough. Re-attach control to stove with 2 screws. Re-attach back metal panel to stove. Shaft on replacement control is smaller diameter and different shape from original, so I removed ribs from inside of control knob hole and then squirted a small amount of hot glue into the hole. Smearing a small amount of cooking oil onto shaft of replacent control I then slid the control knob onto the control shaft, holding it in place until the glue cooled and set. Plug stove back in, and return stove to its position next to the wall.
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The surface burner socket that the burner plugs into melted.
  • Gary from Chesapeake, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Cut the old wires off, removed the screw holding the clamp, installed the new parts. Problems I encountered were the wire nuts. They were too small for the wire gage of the replacement part and the original oven. I had larger wire nuts in my workshop. Also, why so many extra parts like the shrink wrap tubing, two metal clamps to hold t he socket, etc.
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The surface burner element burned out on my 20 year old Jenn Air electric stove.
  • Wanda from Riverton, WY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
It was so easy to order a new one from your company. And it arrived in less than a week! I slipped it into the electric outlet and it worked perfectly. THANKS. Wanda Major
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Burner was slow heating at times. Moved back burner to front still same thing.
  • Gail M from Lockport, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed screw holding bracket. Used side cutters to cut wires. Replaced the bracket, put the shrink wrap on wires, twisted wires together and held with wire caps. Shrunk the wrap with lighter. I'm a 67 year old female.. No problems.
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Burner keep coming on and going off had a short in burner plug-in block.
  • Judith from Staunton, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off stove breaker. Unscrewed burner from stove top, took out burner and spill pan. Lifted top of stove, cut the wire as instructed and put all parts together as instructed. Placed everything back together as instructed. I did it myself!
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Surface burner block corroded
  • Teresa from Kasson, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was a very easy fix. I followed the instructions that came with the kit and cut the original cable. Everything you need is in the kit; very few parts. Piece of cake and saved a lot of money an appliance repair person would have charged. This burner works better than the rest. I'm seriously considering replacing the other three blocks.
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drip pans were old and corroded
  • Patty from East Patchogue, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
ulplugged elements and dropped in new pans
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Beingold the glass top stuck hard
  • Mansukhlal Dayabhai from Moultrie, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
unscrew 3 screws under the control panel and pull that away from the glass top making sure the wires don't come apart from the connectors. care fully slide the glass forward and replace the burner which was the easy part. DO NOT try to test without making sure that none of the burner are touching the metal surface!!!!!!!! it will trip you r breaker. But now we have a range with 4 burner after a year THANKS
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stove burner no longer would heat up burner element
  • Bonnie from Price, UT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the burner element, then the drip pan. I took off the old block. Then I had to strip the old wires. Then I put on the heat sleeve, then attached the new wires to the old wires with nuts. Put heat sleeve over this and heated with lighter. Then put everything back together.
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Plug block was broken
  • Mark from Hillsboro, OR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the entire burner assembly to avoid having to turn things off at the breaker - the whole assembly can be removed completely from the stove I had. Once it was out and disassembled, the toughest part was putting the new wires into the new block correctly. Once that was done, I had to select the right mounting bracket - there were 2 in the kit. Easy, just attention to detail. The rest of the instructions were easy to follow, re-doing the wires. The re-assembly was trivial, and it worked first time!
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Burners did not get hot or went on and off
  • Boyd from kalamazoo, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After carefully inspecting existing burner receptacles, I unscrewed them, raised and propped stove top. Determined which bracket to use from new kit and proceeded to cut and strip wires, twist ends together with supplied ceramic caps and heated shrink wrap on that junction. Works great. BTW got parts in 2 days in great shape and good dir ections.
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one burner that would not heat and others that would not out out much heat
  • Charles from Villa Ridge, MO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I noticed that one of the burner blocks was completely burned and the others were corroded. I ordered blocks for all four burners. Installation was easy except for one block. The screw holding the bracket to the range top was completely corroded in place. I used a correct size easy-out, which is a left hand tap and drill, to remove th e screw. That took about five minutes, including tracking the easy-out down in one of my many toolboxes. The entire replacement of four blocks took about one and a half hours. Stove top cooks like new on all burners! The part kit had all the right parts and they fit like a glove!
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electric surface unit not working
  • vincent from Martinsville, VA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
After turning off circuit breaker to the stove, I removed all surface units , removed the 4 screws holding the top and lifted up. The plug in was burned out (the wire was burned). Look at the old plug-in so as to be able to match the new one and insert the pre- crimped end of wires into the block and the block into the metal holder that matches your old one. (The kit comes with 2 different metal holders)After this, cut out the old wires and wire nut the new wires with the stove wires. Put shrink wrap protector on the wire nuts and heat to shrink it tight.attach the block to the stove top and wa la its done. Very easy.
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All Instructions for the CC12HR
61 - 75 of 87