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AWM531 Amana Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the AWM531
16 - 30 of 42

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Due to the age of the washer, everything on the bottom end was rusted or corroded together tightly.
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Garland, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
To remove the drive bell, I drilled numerous holes through the top and split it apart with a screwdriver. The hub was really stuck and due to the unavailability of a 6" puller, I was forced to drill holes in the center section, tap the holes and use a harmonic balancer puller, PB Blaster, and propane torch to remove the hub. After removi ng the hub, I found small holes rusted through the outer tub. These I repaired with JB WaterWeld quite successfully. The new parts were well made and went on easily in about 45 minutes.
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Agitator not working. Found worn brake pads which allowed tub to turn without agitating
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Anchorage, AK
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
After removing the front panel I was able to reach the bolts holding the brake pads in place. Without the above mentioned ratcheting end wrench it would have been very difficult to start the bolts while replacing them. I would probably consider removing the motor if I had to do this again. It would give a lot better access. no real diffic ulty other than hard to reach.
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Threads on old legs had been damaged in moving to new location.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wayne from SEDONA, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .
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grease in washer
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jan from Denver, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
remove agitator then remove center bolt from hub, match bolt with longer bolt so that gear puller will work. install bolt and gear puller and twist top of gear puller until hub is removed. remove old seal ,use sand cloth or emery cloth to remove all deposits from shoulder. make it shinny, use some dawn dishwashing soap to line the inside of the new seal at the bottom and slide into place.take a piece of 2" PVC about 4" long and slide over the top of the seal and tap with a rubber hammer until seal is seated firmly on shoulder. look to see that there are no gaps with a inspection mirror or a make-up mirror.If their are no gaps ,install the hub and tap on the new hub with the rubber hammer. the hub will not seat all the way down so use the old bolt to pull it down, now take out the old bolt and install the new one, this is because the new one has lock tite on it ,your done!
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idler pulley went bad and wouldn't let the tub agitate
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dean from Carterville, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
removed four 5/16 screws and two hose clamps. This released the pump and belt. With the pump on the bench, I removed a c-clip and removed the pulley. Just reverse the process and it was back together in about 15 minutes---total job.
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Water pump motor belt broke
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from ROUND LAKE PK, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
It was easy, All we had to do was loosen up the tension on the pump, put the new belt back on and put the tension back on the pump motor by sliding it to the side and re tighten the screws to hold the pump tight.
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none
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • C from Palatine, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
took the drive belt to the pump off then put the belt for the drum on .then put the belt for pump back on. basickly this unit is one of the easist to work on
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belt was cracking and dryer was somewhat noisy
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melody from Silverton, CO
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, rol ler, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.
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Seal Kit
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Pat from Rio Rancho, NM
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Taking the hub out was a promblem because, with a puller it did not come out. It broke off while pulling out we had to drill it
out had to brake off.You need a 1 1/2 inch deep socket with a impact wrench. It was a hassel but got done. I replaced the whole seal kit and it is still leaking it leaks from the bottom of the tub. It leaks worse when it has a heavy load I dont know what to do.Need help.
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Water Pump Leak
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Hopewell, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Un plug machine. Turn off hot & cold water. Remove the front panel by removing the 2 screws at the botton & lift front from the bottom until it unhinges from the top. Tilt the washer back far enough to put a contaner to catch the water left in the hoses. Loosing the hose clamps so the water comes out slowly. If you remove the hose to f ast your container won't catch the water. Do one hose at a time. Next disconnect the wiring harnes from the motor. Remove the 4 screws holding the pump/motor. Disconnect the belt from the washer. You will have to tilt the pump/motor to get slack in the belt. Remove the pump/motor & the belt will come with it. This is when I found that the belt was toast & I had to order a belt. Paid shipping twice. once for pump & once for belt. Seperate pump from motor by removing 3 screws. My pump came right off. Reverse the operation to install. REMEMBER TO PUT THE BELT ON BEFORE THE PUMP.
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Timer knob spun freely, could not advance settings
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from South Jordan, UT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Washer is old, but in very good condition. PartSelect was the only company I could find that had a replacement part. That included checking with Amana delears and other repair companies. The sequence of repair in 11 steps: 1. Unplug the washer. 2. Remove 6 philips screws (3 top,3 bottom) from the front of washer control panel to release the control panel. 3.Remove ground wire clipped to the timer. 4.Remove the knob. Could not unscrew,so I placed the tip of screwdriver against the end of the shaft on the backside of the bad timer and tapped to remove the shaft. 5. Use a 1/4" nutdriver to remove 2 screws securing the old timer. 6. Squeeze end tabs and remove control wiring plug. 7. Reverse steps 7 to 4. 8. Unscrew old shaft from the knob 9. Replace timer face plate (keyed to match new timer shaft only goes on one way). 10. Screw knob onto new timer. 11. Reverse steps 2 and 1. Note: It took me twice as long as it should of, I had the assistance of my 2 year old granddaughter Malae.
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noise while spinning
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from Harrison, OH
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
had to completely disasemble whole washer drum and mechanical components to remove upper bearing on transmission,the drum hub was corroded on the shaft. I had to use a gear puller and a propane torch to get the hub off upper shaft of the transmission. then press the bearings in the respective sheet metal supports. reassembly was alot ea sier than taking it apart. Not a job for an average homeowner. It would not have been repaired without the wheel puller. all the seals were reusable A week and a half of use later no leaks and works great
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Clanging of dryer when rolling
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Bel Air, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.
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Washer Wouldn't Turn On
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Erial, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.
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Broken knob
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bradley from West Olive, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Pulled the old knob off and replaced with new knob
PartSelect sent me the exact part you can't tell the difference.
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All Instructions for the AWM531
16 - 30 of 42