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AWM2 Amana Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the AWM2
91 - 105 of 116

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wwater pump was leaking
  • Mary from Martinsville, VA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
My neighbor did the repair for me and I believe the instructions sent were the reason he had no trouble installing it.
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The main problem was the brake pads had worn out, which allowed the tub to rotate with the agitator and the water would then slosh out onto the floor. Laundry would also become wrapped around the agitator. Additionally, the belt was severely worn and cracked and needed replacing.
  • Gary from Washington, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Unplug the electrical cord. Remove the front cover with two screws at the bottom. Unhook the front two springs on the tub that secure it to the floor of the machine. Tilt the tub back as far as possible. Remove the electrical connector to the motor at the motor with the plastic tab release. Remove the four screws that attach the motor mou nt to the floor of the washer. Unhook the two hoses that attach to the pump on the motor bottom. Catch the water in a towel or in a flat tray. Unloop the belt from around the pulley on the bottom of the washer tub shaft and remove the motor, pump and belt as a unit. Remove the brake pads by removing the single bolt atop each one and pull it out of the machine. This will take the longest amount of time. You will have trouble getting the new pads in position, especially the one at the back. You many need to gently spread the brake disks to allow the pads to enter using a padded screw driver. Lightly lubricate the new brake pads before installing with silicone grease and replace the bolt and grommet with the new ones provided on each. Using a torx screwdriver, remove the pump from the motor and discard the worn belt. Remove the idler pulley using snap ring pliers and replace with a new one. Install the new belt and idler. Replace the pump with a new one, or reuse the old one if it seems in good repair and is not too old (mine was 15 years old--I replaced it). Remount the motor, pulley and belt on the machine and secure with 4 bolts--loop the belt around the main pulley on tub shaft. Reattach the hoses to the pump. Reconnect the electrical supply to the motor. Rehook the two spring to the front of the tub. Plug the washer back into the wall outlet. Pour in a couple of gallons of water into the tub before starting to ensure that the pump does not operate in a dry condition. Start and test operation. Be Happy. Wash hands and have a cold one.
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Washer "making a high pitched sound" and a burning rubber smell
  • Jim from Hilton Head, SC
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
As described by your information. Also watched your videos about repair. Your web site is amazing and we WILL use it in the future. We have a perfectly running washing machine once again. Thank You!!
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Leg was mssing after move into new home.
  • Matthew from The Woodlands, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if nec essary.
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No Hot water
  • Mark from O'Fallon, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
I purchsaed a new water valve and it was very easy to install. I hate to do thos kind of repair but it went very smooth. Took maybe a half hour, and now it works like new.
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pump leakage
  • Ryan from Plumas Lake, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
You tubed this procedure and it took 20 min.
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drain hose had a hole near wall drain.
  • Ed from Klamath Falls, OR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The new hose was exactly like the one I removed. It was simply a matter of putting the new hose through the back, replacing the hose clamp, take the piece off the old hose that makes the bend in the hose to go in the wall drain. Replace the lower front panel with two screws and I was done.
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Washing machine was making a banging noise
  • Paul from East Berlin, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Turned off water & unpluged ac power. Removed 2 screws on front panel. Removed panel. Found peices of V belt. Removed 4 screws from electric motor which allowed the belt to come out. Ordered new belt on line. Received the item in one day. Reversed the above sequence above. Now the washer is running as good as new.
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pump leaking water
  • millie from hot springs village, AR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
remove motor and pump togather 4 bolts holding unhook two hose unplug electrial connector and slide out remove 3 screws holding pump to motor be aware of direction belt from moter to tub then place new pump back at same location as old pump replace motor with pump attached back to same location as begfor
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Leaking water
  • William from St.Bonifacius, MN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
detached 2 inlet/ oulet hose/ hose clamps.removed the 4 motor/ pump base screws, tilted motor/ pump assembly and pulled from washer. Removed the 3 pump housing screws, removed pump/ old drive belt. installed new drive belt, pump, reattached pump screws, motor/ pump base screws, reattached hose/ hose clamp. Rreplacement of parts took appro xmiatley 30 minutes.
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Water leaked into the drum while turned off cycle.
  • Brian from Evansville, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
As another person commented, there is a small 'door' on the rear where the water inlet is located. Don't know if this was meant for easy access to change this part or not but I didn't use it. I found it much easier to just remove the front panel (2 lower corner screws), loosen the top (2 corner screws) and tilt it up and out of the way. From there it was easy to disconnect the hoses and four electrical plugs (easy to remember the order). The unit is held in place by one screw which is located between the water inlets.
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The old water inlet valve was stripped.
  • Barbara from Pflugerville, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the back plate. Disconnected the inside water hose. Unplugged the electrical contacts. Pulled out the old valve, connected the water hoses to the valve, plugged in the electrical contacts, reconnected the inside water hose, and put the plate back on the washer. The hardest part was putting the plate back on the washer. This ent ire repair would have been exceptionally easy except that I had to sit on top of the washer and hang upside down to do the repair due to the extremely small space the washer was in.
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Water pumped in very slowly.
  • Stephanie from Lawrence, KS
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unplugged washer, turned water valves off, disconnected water lines from washer with adjustable channel-lock wrench. Water inlet valve was mounted on its own plate that needed removed using a screw driver. Disconnected the electric sensors and disconnected the outlet hose. Valve had to be taken off the mounting plate with a nutdriver. Replaced valve and reconnected everything. Water pumped in 10 times faster.
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pump seal leaking
  • james from Cornville, AZ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
After pulling front lower panel off, disconnected idler pulley spring and left side tub stabilizer spring to allow room to get motor out the front. Took belt off transmision pulley, unbolted 4 motor mount bolts, dropped the motor/pump assembly down and disconnected the electrical plug (motor). Took motor/pump assembly out, flipped it over , unbolted 3 pump bolts to remove old pump, which came right off. Then reversed the whole process. Pretty straightforward, just time.
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fan belt was broken
  • Daniel from Oreland, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
First thing I did was to read the great information from other customers. John from Milton's post titled "frayed v belt" was excellent; so was Joseph from Goldsboro NC under the Pump part posts. I would add the following info which wasn't readily available. The Torx/starbit size mentioned in the posts referenced is a T25 the Amana lw820 3w2 I have. I bought a t25 size torx wrench at my local hardware store for $2. I got everything together --the belt took some arm strength for an amateur like me to get on. Also, would recommend gloves as some of the edges are sharp down there. Everything appeared okay and when I started the spin cycle it started then cut off. I thought maybe besides the fan belt there was electronics faulty. However, I found an amana repair guide for my model online at scribd and under the troubleshooting section, it described the cutout of the spin cycle and if the new fan belt is too tight, it will bind and the spin cycle will cut out. So I opened up the front again and worked the belt for several turns to "stretch it" and voila, it worked perfectly.
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All Instructions for the AWM2
91 - 105 of 116