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AW25 - Instructions

All Instructions for the AW25
31 - 45 of 291

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Lid switch had deteriated over time and no longer made contact
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Rochester, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed the screw holding the actuator, ordered the new part and replaced it when it arrived. Shipping was really fast and I even received it one day early.
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terrible grinding noise
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ALVA K from chippewa falls, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
For safety I Unplugged the machine
Tipped machine back and removed the belt. Rotated the motor by hand and all is well there. Rotated the water pump by hand and a grinding sound appeared. I Let the machine down . Using a hard object , 1/16th of an inch thick, I slide it between the front edge of the lid and the front panel unlocking the clips ( one on the right side and one on the left side ) holding the lid down. I then tipped the lid up and removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Lifted the front panel off of the clips on the bottom end of panel. Using a nut driver I removed the 3 bolts holding the pump to the frame. Then with a pliers I removed the clips holding the 2 hoses. With a pan to catch the water I removed the hoses and drained them into the pan.
I then took my machine model number and went to the internet in search of a new water pump. After checking several sites with no success, I come upon the site for PartSelect.Com. With the excellent search method on the site I was able to quickly find the part I needed. I placed my order (10pm) on a Tuesday night and a short time later I received an email letting me know they had my order. On Wednesday I received an email letting me know they had shipped my order. On Friday the order had arrived.
I removed the new pump from the box and inspected it . Every thing looks great. I placed the pump into its mount on machine and bolted it down. Attached the 2 hoses, put the front panel back on and tipped the top down into place. Pushed machine into place, plugged it in and fired it up. I now have a quiet running machine again. Thank You to PartSelect.com for the quick response to my
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washer would not spin.
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from South Gibson, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!
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Loud squeal when spin cycle finished, white powder under washer
8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Pooler, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
Read DIY review from William, Middleton, OH on 01-15-08. Tip on how to relieve spring pressure on brake assembly worked like a dream (3ea 10-24X2 bolts/machine screws). Replaced brake and machine works like new and was an inexpensive fix. Once the shell/housing is off the machine, tub can be turned upside down and the base doesn't need t o be removed. White powder under machine was a plastic wear ring that tells you when your brake rotor needs to be changed. Brake rotor still had lining but was much thinner than replacement part. Note* Use putty knife to push in clips on front to release the top lid section.
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Leaky hose resulted in damaged Thrust Bearing
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Gilbert, AZ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
After replacing the tub to pump hose, I adjusted the feet on the washer. Apparently, the main pulley sits so low on these washers that it ground into the floor and stripped out the thrust bearing. I ordered the new thrust bearing clip and put it in the evening I received it. The instructions it came with were very helpful and it was si mple to reassemble. Up until the last piece - the retaining clip. The majority of the repair time was spent replacing that clip. If there is a tool that makes the job easier, I didn't have it. I finally got it on with two flathead screwdrivers prying the shaft out while I wedged one corner of the clip in the groove.
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Oil leak from lower lip seal
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from CHESANING, MI
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.
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washer was squeeling to a stop
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • paul from newbern, TN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy
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Washer Spin Cycle Stopped
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Diana from La Mirada, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the screw from the side of the lid of the washer. Took off the old Lid Switch Actuator and screwed in the new one. Took a little elbow grease because the old screw was tight but no longer than 15 minutes tops.
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Washer went off balance and the flume broke off
13 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Jupiter, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!
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Washer lid came off hinges
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Geoffrey from Knoxville, TN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
PROBLEM: The washer lid has two hinge pins that are attached to the lid with Phillips screws (one per pin). The plastic pin that inserts into the hinge broke off, allowing the lid to come free. SOLUTION: First, I removed the lid from the washing machine. Second, I used a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the original hinge pins from the lid. Third, I replaced the hinge pins. Fourth, I used a flat-head screw driver to pry up the washer top to obtain easier access to the hinge screws. Fifth, I removed the original hinges with a Phillips-head screwdriver (one screw per hinge). Sixth, I attached the new hinges to the washer lid. Finally, I attached the hinges (and lid) to the washer top, then lowered the washer top.
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I had water leaking from the top of the tub.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lester from Elk Grove, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.
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Topside door would not remain in an open position; lid hinges worn out.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Oakland, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The lid hinges are fastened to the top of the washing machine body, near the edge of the lid, with 1 screw each.
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push t he inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!
Other Parts Used:
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both hinges on washer lid were broken
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harris from Ashland, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
if you move the agiatater all the way to one side you can acess the star screws from under the hinge then push the agitator to the other side and acess the screw on the other hinge , you dont have to remove the top of the washer, let me say i did not have the serial no and the people at part select were very helpful and pacient when i cal led and they got me the RIGHT part the firdt time.thanks again for all your help the job came out perfect and saved me a lot of money for a repair man. ASHER
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Water pump failure
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Alhambra, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Disconnect electricity....remove front panel by gently prying up lid.... Remove two small screws at corners of front panel. You may need small nutdriver here or very small hands, you can easily swivel tub out of the way....once front panel is off water pump is at the bottom right... It is only connected by two squeeze clamps and 3 nuts... This is obviously where the adjustable wrench and nutdriver come in very handy... Otherwise this job will be a bit longer....be prepared for residual water to pour out...you will need towels or a bucket....replace old with new one by reversing the process...at this point tilt the entire washer on it's backside or at least at a 45 degree angle to access the bottom... Swivel the motor away to slack up the belt...remove belt and replace in reverse order of diassembling.... Should take no more than 15 minutes.... Good luck!!!!!
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washer overflowing
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aaron from Lawton, OK
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Once the washer was unplugged, i removed the two screws on the back pannel, disconnected the three wires, rubber water line, and two screws holding it to the control panel. Quite simply reversed the process with the replacement part i ordered, which arrived overnight, and the problem was solved.
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All Instructions for the AW25
31 - 45 of 291