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AW20N Admiral Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the AW20N
61 - 75 of 426

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No hot water was making it into the laundry cycle.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Neil from Ann Arbor, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I unplugged the machine, then turned the water supply off in order to disconnect the hoses at the back of the machine. Next I pulled the top up and leaned it back so I could access the water valve at the rear of the machine (You might have to use a screw driver to pry the top off the pins which hold it down in front...). I then un screwed the the valve and disconnected the wiring and, in order, re-connected to the new valve. Now reverse and turn on the water and yes, the new valve fixed the hot water problem. We can now do the "whites".
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Washing machine would not rinse or spin out
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joshua from Midlothian, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the panel off of the back of the control panel by removing 3 screws along the bottom and two on the top. I then removed the knob on the front of the timer. I was then able to remove the timer by taking out two screws that were holding the timer in place from the front of the control panel. I then disconnected the bad timer an d connected the new one and put it all back together. Easy fix!!
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Topside door would not remain in an open position; lid hinges worn out.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Oakland, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The lid hinges are fastened to the top of the washing machine body, near the edge of the lid, with 1 screw each.
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push t he inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!
Other Parts Used:
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broken pump, burned belt
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffery from Omega, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
I removed four screws to remove a plate to get access to the pump. Then I removed 3 screws to remove the pump. I then put the new pump in place and put the 3 screws back in the pump. Then I put the plate back on and put the 4 screws back in. Then I put the belt on and put the washing machine back in place and connected the water line s and drain line and plugged the washing machine back in and then tested the washing machine to make sure it worked. Job completed.
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motor pulley shattered and melted to the mortor shaft. Broken belt
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • nicholas from magalia, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Used piliers and screwdriver to remove old pulley.When putting on the belt make sure you have it tight enough.I had to buy a new pulley and do it over.
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Water pump failure
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Alhambra, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Disconnect electricity....remove front panel by gently prying up lid.... Remove two small screws at corners of front panel. You may need small nutdriver here or very small hands, you can easily swivel tub out of the way....once front panel is off water pump is at the bottom right... It is only connected by two squeeze clamps and 3 nuts... This is obviously where the adjustable wrench and nutdriver come in very handy... Otherwise this job will be a bit longer....be prepared for residual water to pour out...you will need towels or a bucket....replace old with new one by reversing the process...at this point tilt the entire washer on it's backside or at least at a 45 degree angle to access the bottom... Swivel the motor away to slack up the belt...remove belt and replace in reverse order of diassembling.... Should take no more than 15 minutes.... Good luck!!!!!
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lid switch acuator broke and some cycles would not work
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Woodbury, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
unscrew the screw holding the broken part in the lid to remove the old part and tighten the screw to a firm position to hold the new piece in place. Now working fine.
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motor pully broke
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from Bryceville, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
First our local store said you had to buy the whole motor. I didn't. I bought the pully from you guys and took pliers and pulled the broke pully off and put a socket on there and hit it with a hammer and then she washes.
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washer overflowing
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aaron from Lawton, OK
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Once the washer was unplugged, i removed the two screws on the back pannel, disconnected the three wires, rubber water line, and two screws holding it to the control panel. Quite simply reversed the process with the replacement part i ordered, which arrived overnight, and the problem was solved.
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Hoes had a leak in it
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from moyock, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The Repair went well . I had the hose on in about 30 seconds . The best part about this ordeal was the ease of finding the part on your website , and the speed of the delivery . I had my part in about 2 days , put it on and back to the fun part of clothes washing . I would recomend this company to everyone. Thanks, Rick K.
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Washer was making noise during spin cycle
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from MORGANVILLE, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Hardest part was finding part that needed the needed repair. Searching the web for issues associated with the sound resulted in many links. Once the sound was found, I went to the video to see how to remove the Water Pump so I could examine it to confirm that was the correct piece. It took about 15 minutes to remove the part. Since I h ad to remove the belt to get it out, I realize that the belt needed replacement as well. So both parts were ordered. Replacing the parts also took about 15 minutes. Relatively easy repair. Be aware that the video on the part select video shows the water pump in a different location than the Maytag washer. To get to the Maytaq water pump, there is a panel in the back that had to be opened to access the water pump.
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Original drain hose (rubber) was kinking, piece of junk. I replaced it with a new corigated drain hose .
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edwin from Eagar, AZ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Leaned washer forward, removed clamp and old hose, replaced with new hose, reinstalling clamp.
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drive pulley split in half after installing new belt
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Haverhill, MA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I used two pry bars to evenly and gently remove old pulley then I gently hammered new one in place and reinstalled belt.
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Cracked hose AGAIN!
9 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • BLANCHE from OSSINING, NY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Hired someone. Note: I purchased two (2) hoses and (2) clamps -- this is the third time I am replacing a cracked hose. The manufacturer needs to use better quality and more flexible material for hoses.
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washer lid was no longer connected
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • linda from granada hills, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Pulled up the top of the washer and removed the lid hinge with a star tip screw driver. Realized that I also needed the hinge pins and had to reorder those. They should come as a kit.
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All Instructions for the AW20N
61 - 75 of 426