ATW4519PW0 Admiral Washer - Instructions

Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.

ordered hub and it shipped quickly. I was able to put the hub in place and screw the screws in. you want to tighten them down slowly and go around to each screw tightening a little at a time so you don't break the hub. as you tighten the screws down the hub slides down flush. its impossible to just push the hub on with your hand. Buttoned ... Read more it back up and got caught up on laundry. good day when the washer is fixed.

Pulled the washer away from the wall to get adequate space. Unplugged the power cord. Place the drain line from the wall into the washer's interior to prevent spills. Removed the plate behind the washer and the control panel using a nut driver. Took a picture so I knew where all the plugs go after installation. Then, I unplugged all wires ... Read more that went into the control board. Then, I removed the control board while using needle-nose pliers to depress the restraint clips. Reassembled everything in the reverse order.

Removed center cap, loosened center nut, pry lightly up on center plate and tap center nut. Center plate comes loose, remove nut, remove center plate. Pry lock clip out and remove, remove screw with electric impact (screw drive will work, but slower), remove drive hub. Install new drive hub (be sure to check screw hole alignment), install ... Read more and tighten screws (be sure to follow a skip pattern and bring it down even), install lock clip, install center plate, install and tighten nut, replace center cap. Done!

unfasten top from back, slide top forward and lift up, remove switch and cable (one piece), in stall new switch and cable, put top down and slide back, reinstall screws.

Changing the gear case is a basic R and R operation since the gear case is a complete assembly riveted together. It is a bit challenging though getting to it because you have to totally disassemble the entire washer nearly every nut, bolt and screw. Fortunately the washer is fairly easy to work on and I am very mechanically inclined, but ... Read more I did cheat a bit by watching some U-tube videos first. I couldn't find the same exact model washer as mine on U-tube but there were enough similar units to obtain the basic procedure. A thing I do when disassembling things is to take pictures of the way it's put together before removing stuff. It goes without saying that you first have to disconnect the power, the water hoses and it helps to get the washer out away from the wall so you can work around it. You have to remove the top, back panels, and the inner and outer tubs first. After removing the inner and outer tubs I turned the washer upside down in order to gain access to the gear case so I wouldn't have to stand on my head or lay down. Remove everything attached to the gear case (take picture) and use a strap wrench (or a strong friend) to hold the large pulley while removing the retaining nut. To remove the condenser (large round thing in black plastic retainer) rotate it counter clockwise and lift out, it doesn't snap out. I was very happy to see that the new gear case came with the shaft seal already installed so with a small amount of liquid dish soap around the outside of the rubber it allowed a nice slip fit back into the outer tub. All the parts that were removed pretty much will only fit one way so you don't have to worry too much about how everything goes back together. After reassembly and hooking up the washer again be sure to perform the calibration procedure before you turn on the water. Instructions came in the box with the gear case. Here is a side bar: I am 76, my grandson and I replaced the gear case in just a few hours, It's no big deal. Now for the interesting part, when I ordered the replacement gear case by the old part number I was told it had been superseded by a new number so when the new unit arrived I discovered that the shaft and seal looked different so hopefully the water leaking into bearing won't happen again. I was going to drill the old gear case apart and replace the bad bearing so I am glad I didn't because the shaft and seal would continue to leak and ruin the bearing again so don't try that. One thing I would like to mention about this company from which I ordered the part was the amazing delivery, only 36 hours. I ordered the part Sunday evening late and Tuesday morning early it arrived. Wow, blew me away, also I live in California and apparently the company is in Nova Scotia, no sales tax, Woo Hoo.

The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you

DO NOT do this repair from the top. The only thing needed to be removed from the top of the machine is the agitator and retaining clip. After removing these items, lay the machine on its front, on a table if you have a friend who will help. Remove the back cover. Simply disconnect the wiring, remove the water pump, the tub locking mec ... Read more hanism, the belt, and motor. Remove the four bolts holding the gearcase. It should come out with little effort. Remove the old tub seal. There should be a new one on the replacement. Lubricate the new seal. Dishwashing liquid worked great. Move the drive wheel from the old gearcase to the replacement part. All the parts originally removed will only fit one way. Reverse all the removal steps and you be should be ready to go. My only problem with the replacement was there was no groove in the new part spline for the tub retaining clip. Seemed to be no problem since the agitator is bolted on so the tub is going nowhere.

The belt in this model is underneath the washing machine. Disconnect water lines and power cords, set up the drain hose in a bucket to avoid water spilling on the floor, tip the washing machine on its back, remove two bolt screws holding the plastic covering the belt, remove the old belt, and install the new one.

After disconnecting water lines and power, tip machine onto its back. The actuator is located under the drum. Remove the cover over the motor/ drive belt. Actuator is located by the transmission and held on by several screws. Unplug the wiring harness and remove three screws with Phillips screwdriver. Install new actuator..

Unplug washer
Take back panel off
Un plug lid switch
Take screwdriver snap out switch
Snap in New switch
Plug it in
Replace back panel plug in washer
Wash

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Pulled the agitator, un-screwed the drive hub, cleaned the splines on the transmission, vacuumed the debris out of the tub. The repair video said to put towels or something down in the tub so if you drop a screw it will catch it. Put it back together and re-calibrated it. It didn't want to go into the calibrate mode until i moved the mode ... Read more switch all the way to the left and then right first. Good quality factory parts!

THE NEW LATCH COMES WITH A NEW BEZEL ATTACHED, WHICH MOUNTS TO THE TOP OF THE WASHER, JUST UNDERNEATH THE LID. BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL BEZEL WAS IN PERFECT CONDITION AND DIFFICULT TO REMOVE, I DECIDED TO REMOVE THE BEZEL ON THE NEW LATCH, AND USE THE ORIGINAL ONE. THIS WOULD HAVE TO BE DONE REGARDLESS IN ORDER TO INSTALL THE NEW LATCH. REMO ... Read more VING THE BEZEL WAS DIFFICULT DUE TO ALL THE LOCKING TABS THAT KEEP IT IN PLACE. I HAD TO RESTRAIN THE SLIDING SWITCH PARTS WHILE I REMOVED TO BEZEL TO AVOID THE ASSEMBLY FROM COMING APART. ONCE I SNAPPED THE NEW LATCH TO THE EXISTING BEZEL, THE ASSEMBLY WORKED FINE. TAKE TIME TO STUDY HOW THE LATCH ASSEMBLY IS ATTACHED TO THE BEZEL SO THAT YOU DON'T BREAK SOMETHING. USE A VERY SMALL SCREWDRIVER TO PRY BACK THE PLASTIC TABS IN ORDER TO RELEASE THE BEZEL FROM THE LATCH ASSEMBLY.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicat ... Read more es the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.