ATGE Speed Queen Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Watched that igniter glowed for usual 15 seconds. Gas did not flow so tested solenoids for ohm resistance across leads. One was bad, less than 1350 oms (as I recall). Ordered the M series coil (solenoid) kit at Part Select, arrived the next day. Replaced them in 5 minutes. Took about 15 minutes to vacuum lint + dust out base of dryer ... Read more area. 5 more min to put front of dryer 4 screws in and mount dryer door!

Replaced cycling thermostat but wasn't the problem. Tested the coils with ohm meter & found no read on the one with 3 prongs. Replaced both anyway. Top of dryer is held on with 2 clips, popped it off to reveal 2 screws on front panel. Bottom is held by 2 clips must lift straight up. Removed bracket that holds the coils in & removed wires. ... Read more They only go on 1 way. Installed new coils , no more problems.

First I opened the back panel & check the fuse with multi meter tool ( put in ohms & set it in 200K) & the fuse is Ok, try to run the dryer while looking in the flame dock & the burner starts & had a fire till about 2-3 mins. & flame comes off, what I did is I open the front door to access into the gas burner, check gas valve coils with m ... Read more ulti meter tool for continuity & found out that one of the coil doesn't have continuity. I ordered a pair of coil that is located on top of the gas valve on this site & unexpectedly it came in the next day, WOW! that's a fast delivery I was very pleased w/ the service, come home from work & installed it right away & it took me 5-10 mins. Put back everything & try to run it & it works properly. So happy with & my wife as we'll, thanks for the great fast delivery.

Repair itself was not hard, Pop top, unscrew front panel and pull forward to get at the coils under the drum. --THIS IS THE KEY POINT i ENCOUNTERED: I tested the coils and the resistance was right according to the schematic. But still the flame would go out after while. --on a whim I pulled the front cover and tested the coils immediat ... Read more ely after the flam wouldn't re-light.---When the coil got warm, it would open (no continuity). When it cooled down again the correct continuity would return. Replaced the coil and no more problem

Initially diagnosed the failure mode as a faulty thermal fuse and when the fuse was replaced was encouraged to find the heat working...then it shut off again. After a period of time that the dryer was off the heat would come back on. After reviewing the site extensively I found a description of the failure mode similar to mine and deter ... Read more mined to replace the 2-terminal & 3-terminal coils (kit is less expensive than either by itself). My older Whirlpool dryer needeed to have the top panel removed in order to get to the front panel screws and once the front panel was removed the coil assembly was pretty easy to identify. The retention "plate" was attached via screws that were a little tough to get to but an offset phillips screw driver did the trick. The coils were "keyed" in such a way that they would only insert one way to be properly oriented. So I've earned my appliance repair merit badge.

I have a whirlpool gas dryer. My dryer all of a sudden would not heat up. I diagnosed the problem and discovered that it would light (using the peep hole in the front) when the dryer was cold, but once warm, the flame would go out. I bought a cheap multimeter and tested all the themostats on the back of the unit after removing the back ... Read more panel. All the thermomstats checked out except the cycling thermostat which should no signal through one of the connections (purple wires). I ordered a new thermo and replaced the old one but it didn't fix the problem. Seems that there isn't a current between the purple connections.... Since the flame did light when the unit was cold I figured it wasn't the ignitor so it was either the flame sensor or the coils. I took the top and front panels off (alot easier than I thought; see videos) and checked the flame sensor with my multimeter. It was fine. Only thing left was the coils, so I ordered a set. IF YOU NEED COILS, SAVE YOURSELF MONEY AND ORDER THE PAIR. YOU GET BOTH COILS FOR < HALF THE PRICE IF ORDERING INDIVIDUALLY. Replacing the coils was rather easy. You will need to prop up the drum with something to keep it from impeding your screwdriver. A stubby philips really helped here. Also, since the gas valves are closed when there is no power, there is no need to disconnect the gas line and fuss about a gas leak (This really saved time). Once the two screws for the coil plate were out of the way, the coils simply slide off the valves and unplug easily. NOTE: Make sure you line up the one new coil with plate when you put it back together. It has a little tab that fits into the plate. All-in-all it took about 30-60 minutes to do. If I were to do it again it would probably take 15 minutes. Pretty easy job for a do-it-yourselfer with only basic tools.

follow Steve the repairman's instructions they were very good

I started with the process of elimination, based on the web site part failure percentage...so I started with the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse, without success. Next, I placed an order for the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit Part # PS334310. Which, are located behind the lower front panel

Replaced bad coils

Parts Select said 27% chance it was the coils and 26% chance it was moisture sensor. I ordered the coils and it did not fix the problem, my luck. I have now ordered moisture sensor and the next possible part, the cycling thermostat. If one of these solve the problem I will still have much less invested than a repairman would charge.

Igniter would glow and flame would burn for about 30 seconds then a rattling noise would start and the flame would go out. Replaced the coil and all is well. Very simple and inexpensive. One of the easiest repairs I've ever done. Video was very helpful.

Both washer and dryer always worked perfectly. Suddenly, dryer wasn’t drying laundry properly. Problem... no heat. Cheapest price I could find calling for appliance service was about $160 to replace coil set but no one would tell me this would fix the problem. This was after calling a number of repair firms and trying to get a somewhat ... Read more close estimate of what my problem was and what the repair cost. Not knowing, I might have just paid the $160 but what turned me off was having a service call fee of anywhere from $50-$80 with no one willing to tell me what the problem might most likely be before coming out or give me an estimate over the phone other than a range of $160 - $275. I just did not want to have someone come out for $50 -$80 and tell me that I needed to spend $275 and still owe them the service call even if I did not agree.
Found diagnostic and repair instructions help on line. The diagnostic information indicated a high probability, roughly 50%, that replacing the coil set would solve the problem and found the coil set cost $19.21 plus shipping, so I ordered the coil kit for total of $26.70. Note... I am a 71 year old amateur never having worked as a repairman of any kind except for my own needs.
The repair itself took less than 30 minutes start to finish and was one of the most straight forward, glitch free, easy repairs I have ever done. This is a gas dryer but still uses 110 power so I unplugged the 110 power cord from outlet. Followed suggested guidance on opening the dryer cabinet from the front and presto, the coil set I needed to replace was immediately right in front with easy access. Removed 2 screws for the hold-down bracket, slipped off both coils, one at a time, removing the wiring connection for each coil and then reconnecting to each new coil before slipping each new coil back into place and reattaching the hold down bracket. Reinstalled the dryer door and cabinet front in reverse order from taking off... 4 screws total. Plugged in the 110 power cord and put in a damp load of freshly washed laundry. Presto... 30 minutes later... dry laundry. Note... could do the same repair again in half the time since I took it slow and careful 1st time and also took time to remove dust before completing repair. I like things to look like new inside and out and it did when I was done. $26.70 and good as new. Why I didn't spend $160 - $275 is pretty obvious now.

First I opened the front of my dryer panel to see when the dryer was on if there was any gas flowing. I found that the ignitor was glowing , but no gas was releasing from the valve. So I figured that that is the root of the problem. I changed the old gas valves and replaced them with the new ones. It worked!! The whole process didn't tak ... Read more e more than 30 minutes.

Removed the two screws fromt he lint track on the top of the dryer. Inserted putty knife between the top of the fromt panel and the dryer top and pushed in to release the two catches for the front panel. I rested the top panel against the wall to get it out of the way of the front panel . Next I removed the two nuts at the top of the ... Read more front panel . Removed the electrical safety connector for the door using a very small screwdriver to release the catch. Pull up on the front panel to detach it from the bottom catches. I rested the drum on a couple of 2x4s to support it while the front panel was off. Locate the housing for the coils which is on the front of the dryer left side. Remove the cover fromt he coil housing by using a stubby phillips screwdriver and remove the top two screws. Remove the wiring connectors from each of the coils. Replace the coils being careful to align the coils with the "keys" in the housing cover. Reverse the process to complete the job taking care to ensure the felt around the drum does not bind.

The dual cil gas valves were out of resistance range. The new coils were easy to install with a screw driver, sockets set and multi-meter.I checked the coil resistance and one of the new coils were a little high, but I installed them and they have been working fine.