ASD2522VRB00 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed all the adjustable shelves inside the door. Removed the top hinge cover (1 nut). then the top hinge bracket (3 nuts). The door doesn't weight very much so you shouldn't have to worry about the door just falling off after you remove the top hinge. then simply lift the door off the bottom hinge and carefully lay it down. One nut in each of the plastc cams on the bottom of the door and an easy swap out with the new parts. A little vaseline one at least one of the surfaces of the cam, reverse the order and simply put things back together and your good to go. Door closes on its own like new. You might as well get both parts for the lower cam and swap them out simultaniously since you have the door off. PLEAS NOTE: Yes there are two different parts for this repair.

I tipped the refrigerator back and my friend used an adjustable wrench to attach put the new wheel assembies on. I also used a socket wrench to get the old attacheement bolts to thread. I rolled the cleaned appliance in place and adjusted the wheels with the socket set for easy door closing. It went smoothly.

it wazs a simple disasembly and reasembly and really shocked me how frast it went all plug and play .

There was three screws to remove to unmout the ice maker, and unplug the wire harness,then two to remove to slip in new stripper. All took about 20 mins.

Removed plastic outer trim and punch pad by pulling out at bottom of trim and lifting up to remove from panel. Unstapped wire harness and layed punch pad aside. Removed two screws holding control bracket in place. Removed light wire first, then light bracket with pliers from control bracket. Removed two micro switches from old bracket and re-installed on new bracket. Re-installed light bracket and light wire to new control bracket. Place control bracket back in place with two screws. Plug wire harness back togather and re-snapped plastric trim and punch pad back in place. Job Complete

pulled top hinge pin off with 5/16 nut driver ,lifted door off and was able to see both parts and replaced them just like they were,easy fix

Remove and replace just as described in info video; replacement valve was revised type fittings but installed without any modification.
Only extra wrinkle was line to filter began leaking, but renewed with spare line supplied with replacement valve.

I just put the new door in the slots. Fit perfectly. I buy all my appliance parts here and have never had a problem.
keep up the good work.

Removed the door, laid the door on its side, and pulled the worn part from the door. Inserted the new part, reattached the door, and it works like a charm. The parts diagram online was very helpful. I ended up purchasing a part I didn't need in case an unidentified washer came with it, but I didn't need it. No big deal.

This was actually a two-parter.

I jumped on PartSelect (luckily) and read through the many helpful guides to trouble-shoot my problem. I first thought it might be the controlling unit circuit boards, until I happen-stanced upon the great tip of first checking the resistance to the water valves. Voila ... one of the valves read 500 ohms ... the one to the freezer said 3 ohms! That valve is clearly marked as to which valve goes to which water supply. I then watched the GREAT video on what I should expect. After ordering the part and getting the fridge back out, I spent a maximum of 6 minutes. EVERYTHING worked as advertised ... except it STILL wouldn't make ice. (I knew the valve was good as I ohm checked before installing. So I again searched the trouble-shooting databases. Computer boards? NO! Some nice lady mentioned that someone told her that if the ice tongs were point aft, it was a problem with the timing motor which is part of the controller inside the motor that turns the tongs.

So ... it was back to pulling the ice-maker unit and checking for broken parts. WELL ... factor installer evidently jammed the unit into the track on either end of the icemaker so I spent about 1/2 hr removing the two screws off the ice-maker door and more than gently prodding on the ice-maker to free it off it's tracks. You ONLY have to remove the 1 screw from the back, bottom right to gently prod the cover off the electrical connector. With that removed and the unit slide off the sliders (watch that left hand tong that latches to the bottom left side). Holding the unit in one hand you'll need to pry the catch up from the front of the connector and slide apart. With the unit on your favorite counter, you can NOW remove the other three screws from the bottom of the unit that are holding the ice maker unit to the tray. Pry the white cover off the motor unit and remove the three screws holding the motor to the unit and tong shaft. Note as others have, that when you install the new motor unit, you'll need to ensure the half-round tong rod fits correctly into the motor assembly. Now it's a matter of reversing all the foregoing and sliding the unit back into the freezer. Took me 1/2 hour to remove this unit and 6 minutes to re-install. Let's hear it for the old assembly line!!

My wife thought I was a genius and it only cost $140 for the parts!! YAY PartSelect!!

First I would like to thank PartSelect for getting the part to me so fast. The repair was easy just rolled frig out pulled lower cover off to expose valve, about 8 screws. Turned water and power took off valve, 2 more screws. Pulled electrical conectors off pushed in on water lines hold down on push in water and pull out lines, put in new valve it takes about 15 to 20 min.

My ice maker just stopped filling with water one day and after some troubleshooting, I found that a chunk of ice had built up in the tube between the water supply line and freezer. I took the ice maker out (Don't touch the heating element...it really hurts) and defrosted the ice obstruction by injecting hot water into the tube to melt the ice. I used a new plastic syringe you get with an infant over the counter drug and a bucket to catch the water. I noticed the ice cube mold was peeling and decided to replace the mold. The mold is an easy replacement as long as you remember how you took it apart. My mold had some glue or compound stuck to the side that kept me from getting the mold flush against the motor assembly housing so I had to uncrew and scrape that gunk off and reattached. Other than that, there was nothing to it. Now the ice maker is good for another 8 years.

1) Turn off the power to the refrigerator 2) Remove the top shelf and ice maker door 3)Remove three hex screws holding the ice maker in place, 4) Unplug the electrical cables and remove the ice maker 5) Remove the plastic cover to the motor module 6) Remove three screws from the motor module and seperate from the housing 7) Remove two mounting screws for the motor module 8) Seperate the motor module from the ice tray 9) Remove and replace the plastic ice stripper and rake10) Reassemble in reverse order. Note: Be patient after re-installing the ice maker. It might take an hour or two before its cold enough to kick back on and make ice.

I replaced the valve but the problem turned out to be the emitter/receiver
Whirlpool/kitchenaid gave little or no help

I did a little homework and decided that it had to be one of two parts. I purchased both parts and installed them. The tricky part was gaining access to the components. I snapped the front panel off and there were the screws. Voila, down hill from here. Read the instructions on the defrost timer assy. and installed new parts. Problem fixed.

I did find the parts later at another site a little less expensive but not with the support provided here. And delivery was fast. Repair cost was less than 100.00 so I am not complaining. Thanks !!