ARTC75 Amana Range - Instructions

First I turned off the circuit breaker on the house electricity panel. I removed the two screws that held the element in place in the oven. There were two wires connected to the element by spade plugs that were free floating in a fiberglass pad. I reconnected the spade plugs and put the element back in place and put back in the two sc ... Read more rews. This procedure had I known what I was doing could have been done with the stove in place and would take no more than 5 to 10 minutes. Having no experience at this, I had pulled the stove out into the room and also removed the back cover which turned out to be unnecessary. I put everything back in place and held my breath and turned on the circuit breaker. Voila! It worked!

Really easy but in this model there are 2 versions of the sensor, male and female. The website didn't have any place to see that. So the first sensor that came was male but we needed the other. After calling they sent me a return form and sent the new part (which was actually much cheaper) overnight and it went in very quickly. Would che ... Read more ck this out again when anything went wrong. they are great folks to work with.

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

Turned off power to unit.
Tilted up Glass top and removed two screws holding rear hinges to range. Then I unplugged wire harness from lower range and placed the Glass top facing down on counter top with towel for cushion. Removed 1 screw holding center of burner to support frame, two alignment screws on perimeter, and two screws hol ... Read more ding support frame to glass top. This allowed me to slide out the old element with all wiring connections intact.
Placed the new assembly in same location under support frame, noting numbered positions of two alignment screws from old unit. This is necessary to properly align heater to surface glass. Replaced all screws connecting burner to frame. Then I removed each wire one-by-one from old unit, reconnecting to same location on new unit.

Replaced top in reverse order from removal. Powered on the circuit breaker and verified proper operation of dual unit with large/small selecttor switch. Total time to repair about 30 minutes.

Pulled the power plug. Removed all the screws holding the back of the range in place. Checked all wiring to make sure there were no burns, cracks, or other problems. Removed the output wire from the thermocouple, reinserted the power cord and checked for voltage. Removed power cord, then removed the 4 screws holding the control in pla ... Read more ce. Removed all electrical connections, making sure of where they went, then installed the new control. While still hanging loose, put the power plug back in and saw the time light up. Pulled power plug, put everything back together, put the power plug back in, shoved the range back in place and the owner proceded to bake an anglefood cake. All is well.

un-screwed 2 scrws and pulled out the old one and pulled off the 2 wires put the new one on the floor of the oven and hooked-up the 2 wires and pushed it in the back wall and replaced the 2 screws! done maybe 5 minutes

This is a very easy repair as the sensor had 2 screws and slid out of the back of the inside of the oven just enough to hook up the new one. I never had to back the oven out of the wall. It is a 5 minute repair. Ok I did use my son's head lamp from scouts for better light as you have to kill the power to the oven, so no oven light. And yo ... Read more u can't hold a flashlight and do this alone.

However, I ordered the part before I took the old part out. Don't do that. There are 2 froms of Temp sensors that you can order one male and one female. I did not know that and just ordered what looked to be the right part. It turned out that I needed the female sensor. When I called the folks at part select they were terrific! They sent out the new part the next day and a UPS form via email to send the other part back.

I don't know what a service call would have been but this was very easy. I will go here first for appliance parts. Women can fix stuff too!

Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.

I removed only 3 screws that allowed me to lift the glass top on the stove. I removed the burner and I could see where it short circuited. I ordered the new burner element. After it arrived I replaced it by moving the wires from the old element to the new element, and put it back together.
I am sure that I saved at least $200 in "lab ... Read more or".

Pulled stove out and unplugged it (energized wire at burner even with burner turned off) Removed screws to lift cook top Removed burner support brace Removed three screws to remove burner Removed connections from old burner, installed on new burner Replaced screws in burner to brace Replaced burner brace Lowered cook top and instal ... Read more led screws Plugged in stove and pushed it into space

first I unplugged the stove,took the screws out of the pan that holds the element to the stove, then unplugged the element.then I plugged in the new element, then screwed the screws into the pan that holds the element into the stove. it was very easy.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Turned off the power! Unscrewed the element (2 screws) pullled the wires out. Put the new part right in. Easy!
Thank you-only a week before Thanksgiving, what a life saver! Also, order on Monday AM and was delivered by mid-day on Wednesday!

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the ... Read more wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201

After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets ... Read more a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.

Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.

Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.