ART308FFDB07 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

removed old and installed new compartment door by hand.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Ice maker fit perfectly over 2 top screws. I tightened them and put the one on the bottom. I was done in less than 10minutes. Everything fit perfectly as expected. Couldn't have been eaiser. Parts Select is my go to online store.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Take screws out pull panel out unconnect the part connect new one and your done

Put gaskets in the car dash to get warm (90 outside), Pulled off old gasket and brought new one in and just inserted it into the slot around door. Was a little buckled but it straightened out after a few hours. Was very easy!

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Remove screws on the rear wall of the freezer. Pull the rear wall out and this gives you access to the evaporator fan assembley. Remove wires to the fan and to the defrost element to be able to move the rear wall to a position where you can work on the evaporator fan motor. The fan motor is held into place by a plastic bracket that clips onto the reverse side of the freezer rear wall. Careful not to break the plastic clips that hold the fan in place as they are brittle. The fan blade friction fits on to the fan motor shaft and is a little difficult to remove. Assemble in reverse order.

$80 part motor fan replaced saved me $1000 or more on new fridge.

Called in and you guys helped out
You guys are the best.