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ARS260 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the ARS260
46 - 60 of 1052

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Clicking noise every 1 minute - Refrigerator ran continuously
24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Greg from Ellisville, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
unplug Ref. and on back of Ref., take back panel off to locate compressor. Attached to the compressor are 2 small parts, secured to the Ref. w/ a small clip. Remove the clip w/ a pair of plyers. Remove the Capacitor (white plastic electric part)form the Compressor - the black overload relay will come off with it. Plug the new relay in to the Capactor. Locate the two wires (used to connect the Ref. to the Capacitor) from the Ref, unplug them from the old Capacitor/Relay and plug them in to the new part(s). Plug the new parts back in to the Compressor. Reinstall the the small metal clip that holds the Capacitor/Relay in place. Plug Ref. back in - if no noise, parts have worked (allow 5+ mintues to test).
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Refrigerator stopped cooling. Pulled it out of the alcove and plugged it back in. Compressor starfted but noticed condenser fan was not turning. Unplugged fridge and tried to turn the fan by hand - frozen.
27 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Florentino from Windsor Locks, CT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Remove the back hardboard cover screws for access to the condenser fan. I opted to tip the fridge over on its side for even better access to the fan mounts and wire. Replaced the fan assy (reused the fan). Splice the wire and it's done.
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Evaporator coils were freezing up and the water dispenser would not work
24 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sammy from Clarksville, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I was not sure what the fix was on my refrig, so I ordered the defrost timer kit, bimetal defrost thermostat, and the evaporator heater(about 100.00 in parts)
I think my entire problem was the bimetal defrost thermostat, as it was somewhat bulged out on the plastic side.
The evaporator coils would freeze over--the evap. fan wo uld not work and the cold water dispenser would not work. I did't have time to just replace one part at a time so I ordered all three parts that have to do with the defrosting of the evap. coils.
The parts worked and the refrig. is operating fine. Thanks to parts select for a super fast delivery(one day).
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Freezer too warm; noticed sides of refrigertor were warm
22 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • W from Nellysford, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also uns crewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.
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Ice Maker was leaking water and causing the ice to freeze into a block
30 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shelley from Katy, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the Ice bin, I then loosened the ice bin rail under the ice maker and removed the screw that attached the bottom of the ice maker to the side of the fridge. I unplugged the power to Ice Maker from the back of the fridge and unscreewed the two screws that secured the ice maker to the fridge. This allowed the Ice Maker to be removed from the fridge. To replace the new ice maker I simply repeated the steps in reverse.
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Drain pan failed and had many leaks
29 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Malcolm from Parrish, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Took two times getting the correct part, however after getting the correct part it took about 10-minutes to replace. Had to take the fan out. When you put the new drip pan in make sure it is positioned so that the guides on the pan aligns with slots in the bottom refrig brace, otherwise back pannel will not align correctly. The fan is ve ry easy getting aligned in the new tray. May take a little effort. I do not know why the pan on a refrighterator that is less than 5-years old could start breaking into many pieces.
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Icemaker leaked water into ice bin causing a glob of ice
22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Tyler, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Philips head screwdriver and ten minutes was all it took! I removed the two screws that hold the icemaker assembly in place, then pulled it out a little and disconnected the electrical plug freeing the icemaker assembly. Then I snapped the external parts off my old icemaker assembly and snapped them on the new icemaker assembly. Installin g the new icemaker assembly was just as fast and easy. I snapped the electrical plug into the new icemaker assembly, then screwed in the two screws. It was making ice shortly thereafter. Glob free ice! I'm glad I didn't call a repairman. I probably saved a hundred bucks. A ten year old could accomplish this simple and easy task. No wonder the Maytag repairman has time on his hands.
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Refrigerator & freezer not cooling / freezing
20 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ken from Birmingham, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First of all, I do not have a history of repairing appliances or even the knowledge of what all the parts are named or how it all works. That said, please excuse my other than technical explanation of the repair. After reading a few posts, I decided to order the two parts and give it a try. The Defrost timer was easy to remove - two sc rews to remove the housing and two screws to remove the timer. The bimetal defrost thermostat was an easy installation - after removing the cover plate (back of freezer section) I removed the two wire caps that was connecting the existing thermostat to whatever it connects to - I guess the heating element and ? I was a little confused because the replacement thermostat had more wires that the existing one. I decided to cut away the extra wires and connect it just like the old one was connected. I didn't work at first and I was about to call in a pro. I turned the defrost timer knob and everything started to work. It has worked beautifully since and I got to brag a little to my wife - that was short lived because she reminded me of the other "stuff" that needed to be fixed! Thanks to the folks that posted before me - it helped me understand the problem and the repair.
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The old motor wouldn't turn the fan.
24 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bob from Hesston, KS
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench set
After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Remova l of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.
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Refrigerator not cooling, water dripping from doors
21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Darrell from Hammond, LA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Water was dripping out of top freezer door and had water under the refridgerator. I could hear a clicking noice from bottom of refrigerator every 3-5 minutes.
After removing back panel, I noticed the fan was running and the clicking seemed to be coming from somewhere around the compressor which was warm. I noticed on the site a si mular problem had been submitted. It said to remove the start relay and if it rattled it was bad. I removed two wires from it ( it is connected onto the side of the compressor) then took a small screw driver to pry it away from the compressor. It not only rattled but had tiny pieces falling out. I ordered the part and replaced it in less than 15 minutes total and all is well.
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Ice Maker broke at the begining of summer !!!!!!
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Darrell from Pepperell, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator i n less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.
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The compressor would try to start,but would not.
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alfred from Port Charlotte, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I pulled the whole unit(condenser&overload relay)
with my hand & disconnected the wire connected
to it & Replaced it with the new one.Peace of cake.
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The refrigerator quit cooling and the compressor would click on and off
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Minneapolis, MN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I took off the faceplate on the back to access the compressor and took off the overload relay switch from the compressor. The overload fit on the compressor correctly. The top quick connect did not fit on the overload so I had to cut the quick connect off and replace the wires with correct size clamps and replace. It has been working fine .
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ice buildup in freezer
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Lincoln, NE
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The part was an exact match to the old one and the instructions from your website were all I needed to complete this repair. My wife thinks I am somewhat of an appliance genius now. Could not have done it without you...thanks
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Refrigerator wouldn't get cold enough.
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ty from Wentzville, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not t he thermostat or adapter control.
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All Instructions for the ARS260
46 - 60 of 1052