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ARS2367AC (PARS2367AC0) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the ARS2367AC
31 - 45 of 865

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The old motor wouldn't turn the fan.
24 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bob from Hesston, KS
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench set
After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Remova l of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.
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Refrigerator & freezer not cooling / freezing
20 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ken from Birmingham, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First of all, I do not have a history of repairing appliances or even the knowledge of what all the parts are named or how it all works. That said, please excuse my other than technical explanation of the repair. After reading a few posts, I decided to order the two parts and give it a try. The Defrost timer was easy to remove - two sc rews to remove the housing and two screws to remove the timer. The bimetal defrost thermostat was an easy installation - after removing the cover plate (back of freezer section) I removed the two wire caps that was connecting the existing thermostat to whatever it connects to - I guess the heating element and ? I was a little confused because the replacement thermostat had more wires that the existing one. I decided to cut away the extra wires and connect it just like the old one was connected. I didn't work at first and I was about to call in a pro. I turned the defrost timer knob and everything started to work. It has worked beautifully since and I got to brag a little to my wife - that was short lived because she reminded me of the other "stuff" that needed to be fixed! Thanks to the folks that posted before me - it helped me understand the problem and the repair.
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Ice Maker broke at the begining of summer !!!!!!
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Darrell from Pepperell, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator i n less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.
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Evaporator motor burned out
18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Yvonne from modesto, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplugged the machine removed the bottom plate and back plate and ice maker.Removed 2 wires to motor and ground wire.Removed 2 mounting nuts for motor,installed new motor and used old fan blade for new motor .Reinstalled in reverse order plugged in and tested fine.
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Thermostat would not work
33 of 66 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sameul from Las Vegus, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I removed the knobs, then the plastic cover over the thermostat. Then, I removed the two screws that hold it on. I removed the thermostat, unplugged the electrical leads, and pulled out the old thermostat. I then inserted the new one, hooked up the leads and reassembled.
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Bottom freezer door hinge broke
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Blue Springs, MO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the plastic cover from the top hinge and loosened the screws. The magnet seal kept the door in place so I removed the top hinge and tried to lift the door off the bottom hinge but the water line wouldn't let it go. Since I don't use the water feature, I just cut the water line and lifted the door off. That's when I discovered the hinge pin was actually broken off, not just the cam. I went ahead and replaced the cam kit and put it temporarily back together, got right back on line and ordered the bottom hinge. The service was again very fast and in a couple of days I received the bottom hinge, repeated the whole process again and this time replaced the bottom hinge assembly, put some petrolium jelly on the cam kit and now it works smooth and perfect.
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Ice maker and water don't work
22 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • kevin from cody, WY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
turned water supply off, unhooked both set of
valves, reinstalled them, tested operation.
one valve on primary had to be capped also.
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Part of cam broke off bottom of fridg. door & it quit closing automatically
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elaine from Milton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Took longer to move food from door to inside fridge & take grandkids' artwork off door, & then put it all back than it did to replace cam.
1. Used phillips head to undo 1 screw holding cover over top bracket; lifted off cover.
2. No need to have someone hold door while you remove top bracket; magnets in door gasket will hold it tight to fridge. Used socket to remove 3 screws in top bracket & lifted bracket up off top of door.
3. Door's not heavy. I stood on a sturdy chair to get better leverage. Opened the door enough to break the magnetic seal & llfted it up off bottom bracket. I moved it over just enough to get to the cam, rested the bottom of the door on the floor, & leaned it up against the open front of the fridge to help preserve chilled food.
4. Removed the 1 screw holding in the bad cam to the bottom bracket (uses smaller socket than screws on top bracket).
5. I checked part that goes up inside bottom of door & it was fine, so did not replace it.
6. Trickiest part: putting the door back on. I put a hand mirror on floor by the right corner & facing up so I could see the underpart of the door as I lifted it eased it down on the right place.
7. Closed door, made sure it was straight, replaced top hinge & cover, food, & artwork.
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water stop pumping follow by refrig stop cooling
15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tuan from Garland, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
the problem was the evaporator has frozen causing the water line to freeze also.
I opened the cover to see the evaporator, verify it was frozen, try to unplug and let it thaw, but it would freeze again. Thought the defrost thermostat was not working but did not verify, order new one and replaced; it did not work. After a long time of experimenting different things I found out that the defrost thermostat was supposed to be clamp to the line. It was not clamped to the line, was just hangin from its wires when I found it. So.....it works now!!! but I don't know what happen in the first place: the clamp fell off, or did it come from mgfr unclamped but happen to work since it was cold new, now getting old and not cold enough to close the thermostat unless on the line? anyway, it works and I decided to keep the part for spare. Hope this help someone else!
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coupling on water line thru freezer door cut due to moving Refg and having to remove doors.
21 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from Rutherfordton, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Snapped the large end of the coupling onto the main line coming from the water source and snapped the other end onto the small line leading to the ice maker. Quick and simple.
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Ice stripper broken on ice maker
17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from New Braunfels, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened th e screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!
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refrigerator sedondary water valve failed
16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from Macedon, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
First, I didn't know that my refrigerator water system even had a secondary water valve; I have replaced the primary water valve 3 times so far, and when that didn't fix the problem I looked further and there it was.

I turned off the water supply to the refrigerator and unplugged it, prior to working on it.

Then I t ook the back panel off the 'frige with a cordless drill (the 1/4" hand nut drive was too slow), removed the primary water valve to get it out of the way, and remove the secondary water valve. all the electrical and tubing connections could be removed and installed by hand, so it was pretty easy.

The job duration could have been cut in half if my wife didn't make me clean behind the 'frige once I moved it....................
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Old Icemaker noisy and stopped making Ice
18 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Rhinelander, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
The old icemaker had a bad motor and would stall in the fill cycle causing my kitchen to flood on occasion.

The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!

Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!

Thanks!!!
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Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Cedarville, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
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light inside fridge was flickering and clicking
20 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • bill from escondido, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
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All Instructions for the ARS2367AC
31 - 45 of 865