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ARR632 Amana Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the ARR632
76 - 90 of 178

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Racks would fall off of the tracks when the broiler was used
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Andrew from Neptune, NJ
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
I ordered new racks to see if they weere out of alignment. The new racks fell from its tracks after the broiler was heated. It seems the oven cabinet is expanding with the heat and the rack width does not compensate for that. The new racks did not solve the problem so I do not know what can be done next. Any shelf support would have to be heat resistent. Replacing the oven cabinet is not a good option and no gauantee it wouldn't continue with this stove.
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hinge on oven door broke off
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janine from Wilkes Barre, PA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
After I received the new hinge in the mail, my 13 year old son volunteered, for a fee of five dollars, to put the new hinge on the oven door. Seeing "easy to install" on the outer wrapper of the new part, I thought I was being generous. However, my son soon let me know that the screws given with the new hinge did not fit into the predri lled holes of the oven. He tried and tried for over an hour to get those screws to fit. I decided to go to the home improvement store to buy bigger screws. I took the hinge with me and had the store employee assess the type of screws I would need. He then informed me that the screws were fine, but I needed the holes in the hinge to be drilled bigger. I bribed him by offering to buy him a drink if he'd do it for me as long as he was single. He laughed and drilled away. (Sometimes, single women, like me, get desperate!) He handed me the hinge with larger holes and I noticed the wedding ring. Oops...no drink for him!! But I did give him a great big thank you. Happily, I brought the fixed piece home and handed it to my son to continue with the repair. He tried again and this time announced the holes were drilled too big!! If there was a bridge nearby I seriously would have jumped! The next day I drove to my Dad's house...a true jack of all trades...and with his drill and two new screws, he said this should do it. For the third time, I handed the hinge to my son and VOILA!! It actually worked! Thanks Dad!! So much for "easy to install". Seriously, the incorrect screws were sent with this hinge! Anyway, I happily celebrated that night with a drink in my hand...minus the home improvement employee!
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surface burner heating element broken
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marlene from Charleston, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
took out old element, replaced with new.
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broken hinge
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jed from Spanish Fork, UT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repair was quite easy. Remove the two screws and put in the new part. The only problem I had was the hinge sent was the wrong side (but it still worked) and the new hinge had no threads for the screws. I had to tap the holes so that the screws could be used.
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The Stem On The Burner Control Sw Broke Off
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • charles from franklin, LA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a phillips screwdriver to remove the control switch. I drew a diagram on a piece paper where the wire contacts connected I wrote the different # and wire colors down . I compared the 2 switches they were the same. So I connected the wires . I put the 2 screws on. The stem was higher than the other switchers. So I had to cut the stem shorter. It had groves so it was easy to use a hacksaw to cut a little then use a lock pliers to hold the stem and another to break it off then it fit perfect I put the knob on presto new switch. Just like new.
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2 of the burners were not working arching and smoking
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tina from Laurel, MT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Time was do to the fact that I replaced two elements! I turned off the power to the braker box, unplugged the stove and removed the screw holding the element plug in, removed the part, and cut the wires where they were clean looking (not damaged by smoke or the arch) I then stripped the wire and took the new part and twisted the parts t ogether with the caps and then put the heat shrink on and used the blow dryer on them, attached the part to the bracket and screwed it to the hood of the stove plugged the burner in, plugged in the oven and turned on the power tested it worked, did the same for the next burner and yes mind you I am a woman it was very easy to do.
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cooking element shorted out and did not heat.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carolyn from Fyffe, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...
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Sparks where the heating element plugs into the stovetop
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from Sayre, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The directions were very clear. I removed the heating element, detached the plug-in block by unscrewing the screw, then cut the wires about 3 inches from the block. I put the shrink-wrap collars around the wires leading to the new block, then attached the wires to the cut ends of the wires leading to the back of the stove, using the con nectors provided in the kit. I couldn't get the collars to shrink as much as shown in the picture. I attached the new block to the stove top using the screw, plugged in the heating element, and it worked!
So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.
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elemenent caught on fire
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Franklin, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
my wife did the the job and it was that easy. she took out two screws sliped the wires off put the two wires back on and put the screws in . She is a bank teller and teachers water aerobics
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lower heat element would not get to temperature
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Titus from Madison, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Slide stove out and unplug. Using nut driver (phillips screw driver would work fine) remove screws securing back panel. Remove back panel. Pull off wires from heating element. I made a lose knot on left wire so I could install as removed without confusion - sometimes it matters. Removed 2 screws securing element inside the oven. I ins talled everything as it was - oven works great. I saved over $100 and my wife thinks I'm a genius. Hardest part was cleaning accumulated mess behind the stove.
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burner connector - bad connection
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from Grand Forks, ND
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed burner and tray. Removed burner connector from stove top using screw driver.
Removed existing heat shrink and wirenuts.
Installed new connector - wire nuts and heat shrink. Used lighter to shrink.
Took 20 minutes.
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Block broke
1 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from Crimora, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done
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burner wouldn`t stay hot.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cary from Gilbertsville, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I lifted the cooktop out of the countertop & removed the screws so I could access under the burners.Then I cut the wires for the old plug-in block & then stripped the wires.Next I connected the new wires with the wire nuts & then used a lighter to shrink wrap the wire nuts.Then I screwed in the new block & re-installed the screws fo r the cooktop.I put in the new burner & it worked just like new.
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Worn out terminal block
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Brookings, OR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the 'burners' and 'burner' trays. Removed the screw that secured the bad block. Lifted the top of the stove. Cut the two wires to the bad block., stripped the wires about 1/2", slipped the shrink tube over the wires. Connected the new block with two porcelan wire nuts. slipped the shrink tube ove r the wirenuts and heated it with a lighter. Closed the top and secured the terminal block clip with a screw. Turned the power back on: voila!

All the necessary parts came in the repair kit, delivery was timely. Very easy project.
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contacts in plug-in block badly burned & oxidized
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • william from port st lucie, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the one screw that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires...)
Assembled the block parts.
Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve.
Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements.
They w ork very well now.
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All Instructions for the ARR632
76 - 90 of 178