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ARR31 Amana Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the ARR31
91 - 105 of 208

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My drip pans were in bad shape
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sandra from Oldsmar, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I removed the old and repaced with new. I never ordered anything one day and got it the next. I'm impressed
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wire came loose and shorted out
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elizabeth from HOUSTON, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
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Racks would fall off of the tracks when the broiler was used
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Andrew from Neptune, NJ
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
I ordered new racks to see if they weere out of alignment. The new racks fell from its tracks after the broiler was heated. It seems the oven cabinet is expanding with the heat and the rack width does not compensate for that. The new racks did not solve the problem so I do not know what can be done next. Any shelf support would have to be heat resistent. Replacing the oven cabinet is not a good option and no gauantee it wouldn't continue with this stove.
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I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
3 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Palm Coast, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
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The Problem Was That The Plug Was Gone It Fell Down Out Of The Bracket
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elnora from Brundidge, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine
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Three of four electric coils won't turn on
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Arsenio from Beaverton, OR
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as supp ort to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.
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Element Burnt Out
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • PATRICIA from JACKSONVILLE, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
E. G. First we turned off the circuit to the range. Then with a flash light to see we removed the two screws that hold the element in place. We then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. . . Then connected the two wires to new element and put the ends back into opening and replaced the two screws that ho ld the element in place. The hardest part was getting to the back of the oven for an 82 year old and a 94 year old but we got it working again!.
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Had 2 bad cooking elements and needed 4 new pans for the burners
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Miles from Apache Junction, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Ordered the parts and when I received them I simply removed the old ones and replaced them with the new ones. No tools were required.
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2 of the burners were not working arching and smoking
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tina from Laurel, MT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Time was do to the fact that I replaced two elements! I turned off the power to the braker box, unplugged the stove and removed the screw holding the element plug in, removed the part, and cut the wires where they were clean looking (not damaged by smoke or the arch) I then stripped the wire and took the new part and twisted the parts t ogether with the caps and then put the heat shrink on and used the blow dryer on them, attached the part to the bracket and screwed it to the hood of the stove plugged the burner in, plugged in the oven and turned on the power tested it worked, did the same for the next burner and yes mind you I am a woman it was very easy to do.
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Block broke
1 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from Crimora, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done
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Worn out terminal block
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Brookings, OR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the 'burners' and 'burner' trays. Removed the screw that secured the bad block. Lifted the top of the stove. Cut the two wires to the bad block., stripped the wires about 1/2", slipped the shrink tube over the wires. Connected the new block with two porcelan wire nuts. slipped the shrink tube ove r the wirenuts and heated it with a lighter. Closed the top and secured the terminal block clip with a screw. Turned the power back on: voila!

All the necessary parts came in the repair kit, delivery was timely. Very easy project.
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contacts in plug-in block badly burned & oxidized
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • william from port st lucie, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the one screw that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires...)
Assembled the block parts.
Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve.
Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements.
They w ork very well now.
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burner connector - bad connection
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from Grand Forks, ND
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed burner and tray. Removed burner connector from stove top using screw driver.
Removed existing heat shrink and wirenuts.
Installed new connector - wire nuts and heat shrink. Used lighter to shrink.
Took 20 minutes.
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range top burners not heating reliably
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from Moore, OK
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the original burner element sockets and replaced with parts provided in kit. Instructions were simple and easy to follow, problem completely solved in 20 mins!
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Was baking brownies and all the sudden the heating element started sparking, flaming, and looking like a welding rod.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • WAYNE from FERGUSON, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Then I reconnected the wires to the new element and screwed it in to the oven back. Simple and inexpensive fix.
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All Instructions for the ARR31
91 - 105 of 208