ARR30 Amana Range - Instructions
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Drip bowls tarnished.
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Jennifer from Albion, NE
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Remove heating element coils. & old drip pans. Install the new drip pans and reinsert the heating elements and insure all elements were level. For aesthetic reasons I replaced all the drip pans - 2 x 8" & 2 x 6".
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two of the burners were working intermittently
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Kevin from Desoto, MO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
I shut off the breaker checked for power then cut old plugs making sure to allow a little slack. Tightened down wire nuts put on a couple wraps of electrical tape and that was it. Burners work great now I would reccomend this product to anyone with a similar problem.
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stove burner no longer would heat up burner element
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Bonnie from Price, UT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed the burner element, then the drip pan. I took off the old block. Then I had to strip the old wires. Then I put on the heat sleeve, then attached the new wires to the old wires with nuts. Put heat sleeve over this and heated with lighter. Then put everything back together.
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Plug block was broken
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Mark from Hillsboro, OR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed the entire burner assembly to avoid having to turn things off at the breaker - the whole assembly can be removed completely from the stove I had. Once it was out and disassembled, the toughest part was putting the new wires into the new block correctly. Once that was done, I had to select the right mounting bracket - there were
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2 in the kit. Easy, just attention to detail. The rest of the instructions were easy to follow, re-doing the wires. The re-assembly was trivial, and it worked first time!
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I had to replace the broiler element because it had burned up like a sparkler.
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Georgia L from Coupeville, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
I read instructions and hints online. Then, I pulled the range out from between the cabinets and unplugged it (carefully). I used a small Philips head screwdriver to remove the 10 metal screws holding the large metal sheet on the back of the oven. Then I removed the 4 screws holding on the metal sheet on the upper level of the back of
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the range since it had to be removed to move back the big sheet metal away from the back. The large metal sheet has the power cord threaded through it on the bottom and I left that in place. I then removed the oven door by lifting it up off the hinges after I removed the screw on each side that held the door on the hinges. The door is quite heavy for a girl. I unscrewed the plate at the back of the broiler element, unhooked it from the hangers, and carefully pulled the connectors apart from the oven wiring and the dead broiler element. (Being completely unfamiliar with this kind of connector it took me some time to figure out they slid apart.) Following advice online I had used electrical tape to tape down the wires so they wouldn't slip backwards out of the oven. The new broiler element connectors slid smoothly and easily into the oven wires. I removed the electrical tape I had used as temporary holders, hung the element on the previous wire slings and removed the new wire slings for a backup. I screwed back the plate on the new element into the back of the oven wall. I used the part number orientation on the element to make certain I had it right side up. If I have to do this again it will be easy and take very little time. My biggest problem was getting the oven door back on because it was heavy for me and I was too short to be able to see what I was doing as I repeatedly tried to get the oven door and hinges aligned. Eventually the door was back on and screwed down. Everything that had been unscrewed was put back in place and screwed down tightly. The oven and broiler are working perfectly.
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electric surface unit not working
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vincent from Martinsville, VA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
After turning off circuit breaker to the stove, I removed all surface units , removed the 4 screws holding the top and lifted up. The plug in was burned out (the wire was burned). Look at the old plug-in so as to be able to match the new one and insert the pre- crimped end of wires into the block and the block into the metal holder that
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matches your old one. (The kit comes with 2 different metal holders)After this, cut out the old wires and wire nut the new wires with the stove wires. Put shrink wrap protector on the wire nuts and heat to shrink it tight.attach the block to the stove top and wa la its done. Very easy.
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range installer broke a screw off & busted the plastic piece
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Christina from West Des Moines, IA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one
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one burner that would not heat and others that would not out out much heat
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Charles from Villa Ridge, MO
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I noticed that one of the burner blocks was completely burned and the others were corroded. I ordered blocks for all four burners. Installation was easy except for one block. The screw holding the bracket to the range top was completely corroded in place. I used a correct size easy-out, which is a left hand tap and drill, to remove th
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e screw. That took about five minutes, including tracking the easy-out down in one of my many toolboxes. The entire replacement of four blocks took about one and a half hours. Stove top cooks like new on all burners! The part kit had all the right parts and they fit like a glove!
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Broiler heating element quit working
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Rhonda from Great Bend, KS
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I had no trouble replacing the Broiler heating element, total time 30 minutes. Just had to pull the range out to unplug it and remove the back sheild of the range, then remove the two push on electrical connections. Then removed one screw holding the element to the inside of the oven, replaced with the new element, attached the connecti
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ons, but the back sheild back on and it was done.
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Old burner stopped working right.
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Paulette J. from Connell, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Was able to unplug the old burner and plug the new one in. Very easy.
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Oven lower element
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Lawrence from South Fork, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Description of the element indicated that it would work for the oven burner. However, it obviously was meant for the broiler element. I had to remove the thin metal piece with the attachment holes in it (the holes didn't match the holes in the back of the oven). To install I had to drill two holes in the remaining attachment flange to
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match the holes on the back of the oven. Then I made three metal supports out of sheet metal to hold the element up approximately 1 1/2" off of the bottom of the oven. Just thankful to find one that I could make work. Oven works fine now. LF
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burner not working
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gene from kent, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
burner was shorting out replaced part works great
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burner would not heat up the connection was bad
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Earl from Union Mills, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
loosened the screw holding the block pulled it out toget to wire cut it about 4 inches long followed the inst.with block kit and it was a breeze. burner working fine now should have did it sooner.
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burned out coil
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L from Richardson, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Simply slide out old coil by lifting cooktop pan; position new coil electirc elements in oven slots, slowly push in, then push coil tab into slot in pan for balance. No problems
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Light bulb failure
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Grant from Alexandria, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.
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