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ARGS7650S Amana Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the ARGS7650S
46 - 60 of 234

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Oven would not light, broiler would
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • james from lancaster, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the cover over the burner, two screws at the rear, this exposes the burner tube cover, one nut at the center. Three screws will remove the holder for the igniter. I had to remove a sheet metal cover underneath the oven( pull the drawer out) to gain access to the plug for the igniter. A good tip on this is the same valve controls th e broiler and the oven, if one works and the other doesn't, it's the igniter. If neither works the gas vale may be the problem.
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The oven would not light up.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bonnie from Milwaukee, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
My husband took the oven door off then the bottom piece below the shelf took the old ignigter out put the new on in and now I have an oven again.
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Burner would not ignite even with gas flow spark and clicking.
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Sonora, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed two screws and disconnected the ignition wire. Then connected ignition wire to new burner and installed two screws
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Rear burner of sealed cartridge did not light
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Philip from CONCORD, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the cartridge from the range and used a screw driver to remove the screws holding the burners assembly in the housing. (Some prefer to remove the burner from the top by removing the two screws, but I've had trouble realigning the parts that way.) I removed the ignition wire and the screw holding the bad electrode in the burner . I then installed the new electrode, attached the ignition wire, put the burners assembly back into the housing, and put the housing back into the range.
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Oven igniter would not ignite
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Linda from Bethel, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Removed drawer
2.Removed back panel (2 screws).
3. Disconnected power line from old igniter
4. Removed 3 screws holding old igniter.
5. Replaced with new igniter.
Works like new.
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Ignitor was old and wasn't working
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marc from Kirkwood, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced the existing ignitor by removing the bottom drip pan/gas line/ignitor (apprimately 18 screws), unscrewing the wire nuts, removing the old ignitor, connecting the wires to the new ignitor, and reinstalling the drip pan/gas line/ignitor (18 screws).
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After on-line research i realized the igniter failed.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Davis, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replacing the igniter itself was a simple matter a few screws holding its housing and then plugging the new one into the connector. Difficulty came trying to figure out how to access the igniter. Disassembling the floor of the oven was a dead end involving many screws. Pulling the unit out from the wall was a big job and another failure. The problem was solved with the removal of the drawer. Underneath, in the rear was a sheet metal plate held by 2 screws. Behind that hung the igniter connection. Voila! Job done.
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Oven very slow to lite off
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Medina, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took bottom oven pan off accessed through oven storage drawer.Removed a few screws holding the igniter bracket,removed igniter from its holder(Be really,really careful doing this procedure because the igniter tip is verrrrry fragile,ask me how I know)Put it all back together and Voila,it works!This is so easy a job a caveman can do it! G ood luck!
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Oven would not heat
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Micha from Altadena, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I went ahead with the repair after reading how easy it was. I located the wires which were spliced, held together with wire nuts and wrapped in black insulation tape which did not feel right. Not realizing that these were ceramic heat resistant wire nuts and not wanting to cut the connector off the new ignitor I tried in vain to find a wa y to disconnect the original from it's source. In vain I searched for a way to reach where it plugged in. Looking for diagrams on line I came across one mention of: when you can't reach where to unplug the connector splice the wires using the heat resistant wire nuts. Encouraged I did that without the black insulation tape and then tried to slide the ignitor into the protective housing. The filament broke! I was devastated. Out $50.00 plus ego deflated I called PartSelect and bless their soul they sent me a new one under warranty. I didn't even have to ask for it. Their turn around time was the same as before and within two days not counting the weekend the oven lit like a Christmas candle. Thanks to all before me who shared their experience. Curious though why no one mentioned the splicing method.

PriceSelect was the best. Special thanks to them.
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Autolatch assembly did not work
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Wrightstown, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repairman that had come had stated that this part is no longer made, but I was able to locate one through PartSelect and was able to replace it with minimal effort.

I removed the three screws that held down the stove glass top surface and had a person hold the stove top up while I removed the two screws which held the autol atch assembly in place. I then swapped the leads from the failed assembly to the new one and replaced the screws which were removed. New assembly tested out fine and oven was able to self-clean again.
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Replace Ignition Electrode gas range
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wayne from Woodstock, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Wow, ordered the part here and it arrived in 18 hours!! Job was fairly straight forward but the screw holding it in place was corroded and stuck. Several heating and cooling cycles with a torch and some spray lube and lots of patience and I finally rocked the screw lose.
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Broiler Would Not Turn On
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Lake Zurich, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Un plug elect. Cord. Remove door by pulling upward removed back stove panel, un did 2 wire nuts leading to igniter. Un screw igniter inside oven at top next to burner pad. Interchanged old ignitor with new plug stove back in. Thats it.
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Oven either would not come to set temperature or took a very long time. Gas would flow to burner for only short times. When burner was lit, flame was often low. There was often the smell of gas.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Symptoms were sign of bad ignitor based on Goggle searches. Removed screws holding burner and ignitor to range. Disconnected ignitor at green connector below oven with lower drawer removed. Then removed burner and old ignitor. Reinstalled burner and then new ignitor being sure burner was still seated on gas outlet. (Note-burner removal ma y not be necessary) Replaced two screws attaching ignitor to oven wall and two screws attaching burner to floor of oven. Oven works perfectly now.
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Oven & Broiler wouldn't light
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Kingman, AZ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I replaced the Oven Igniter. With a ohmn meter I checked the resistance on the Igniter and there was nothing there. I figured the module had to see some kind of resistance to turn the gas on. The Oven now works after replacing the Oven Igniter, but the Broiler still will not light. I will check the resistance on the Broiler Igniter an d see what is going on there.
The Igniter can be checked from the back by removing the back cover panels. The two igniter wires come out through the back of the oven and have heat resistant covering on them. They run into a plastic plug and can be accessed at this point to check the resistance.
To remove the Oven Igniter, remove the oven racks, the bottom panels which are held on by screws. The Oven Igniter is attached to the gas rail which is attached to the underside of 2nd panel by two wing nuts.
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The spark was no longer igniting the burner
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stanley from St. Louis, MO
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
The earlier reviews said very easy and 15 minutes for beginners. They were right on, except I could not get the old screw out no matter what I tried. I eventually had to drill it out and put in a self tapping new screw. This was a first for me. Then it took 15 minutes or less and works fine again. Hopefully next time someone will tell me how to get that old screw out faster.
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All Instructions for the ARGS7650S
46 - 60 of 234