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ARB9059CS (PARB9059CS1) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the ARB9059CS
1 - 15 of 1090

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light on to order water filter
916 of 1059 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Douglas from Byron, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Pressed in the end of the filter cover, lowered it down part way. Twisted the old filter 1/4 turn and removed it. Set in the sink to drain. Inserted new filter and twisted it to lock. closed cover. Done. Total time @ 1 Minute.
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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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Ice maker leaking at first then quit making ice all together
432 of 496 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hootie from Joshua, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
unplugged refrigerator and shut off water, removed one screw and loosened two more, after removing one side of the ice bucket rail, unplugged electrical from old ice maker. Then I removed the bail and out on new one, reinstalled ice maker in reverse order from taking it out.
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The compressor would not run.
326 of 373 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gilbert from Clinton, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the screws in the lower back panel where the compressor is located. Then I unplugged the capacitor and plugged the new one in. I then checked to see if the compressor would start. It wouldn't so I replaced the overload relay with capacitor and that fixed the problem. The capacitor just plugs into the relay then plugs into the co mpressor. There are several screws but all in all it is easy.
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Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
280 of 383 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on e. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
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Sometimes the condenser fan would start causing the refrigerator to overheat.
184 of 223 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from Franklin, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplug the appliance.
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new
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Removing the existing filter by rotating as directed and then dislodging from 'docking' station proved difficult. Turns out, the old filter is under a bit of vacuum pressure and getting the unit to separate or release was a challenge.
216 of 335 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jake from Novato, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I removed the drop-down outer housing by gently prying the sides of the two pivot pins at the rear. This gave me move 'room' to grip and slightly rotate then pull the old filter forward and away from the tight suction connection. I was concerned that I would be too forceful for the plastic assemblies and would break something; deliberate motions and a steady thought process on the problem helped disengage the darned old filter!
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Broken pins holding pantry door
149 of 169 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Bethesda, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed door and crisper pans.
Removed nuts on left end cap - think there were 3.
Removed nuts on right end cap and one or two on back air regulator attached to right end cap.
Replaced left end cap with new one using reserved nuts.
Carefully removed back air regulator from right end cap.
Attached back air regula tor to new right end cap.
Replaced right end cap and back air regulator and attached with nuts.
Carefully inserted pantry door into pin on one side and slightly bent both right and left pins to insert door fully into end caps.
Replaced crisper pans.
That's it.
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Needed to change water filter in refrigerator
163 of 258 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marilyn from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The switch-out of the water filter was simple with good instructions on the box.
The part was delivered very, very quickly!
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water filter needed replacing
111 of 124 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kathryn from Cedar Springs, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I unscrewed the old one and replaced it with the new one. The real benefit was I got the exact part I needed w/o a 30 minute drive and sales people that ignored me. I had gone to the local store the day before and come home with the wrong part because i could not get assistance and the part # I had did not match what was labled on the p ackage. I used the same part # on the website and got exactly what was needed, less that 48 hrs after I ordered it. thanks for the prompt service. we will be a repeat customer
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The Bearing Cup Assembly was broken and ice would jamb against it during the ice making cycle.
110 of 140 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Chester, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
136 of 255 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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Freezer not defrosting
78 of 92 people found this instruction helpful.
  • james from southampton, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed shelf drawer. Then removed plastic coverings from back panel of freezer. Squeezed tabs of ice maker connector to push it behind the back panel. With nut driver, removed the four screws holding the panel and removed the panel. Used a hair dryer to remove frost from upper right area that contains the defrost thermostat. Cut out t he thermostat and removed the connector on the right from the defrost heater. Removed brown wire from a few of the clips. Attached orange wire from new thermostat to orange wire leading to connector removed from defrost heater and the brown wires to each other using the pliers and supplied crimpable wire nuts. Wrapped the connections with self fusing tape. Reconnected the wiring to the defrost heater and clipped the new defrost thermostat to where the defective one was removed. Used the hair dryer to melt the ice that was covering the drain, then a turkey baster to unclogg the drain. Put everything back together.
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not making ice
78 of 93 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Pat from Dallas, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Installed new ice maker. It was easy - loosen two screws and unplug old wire harness. Put new unit in place. Did not realize new unit would not come with wire harness, but transferred old one to new ice maker (easy) and, "voila" some ice in 24 hours -- much ice since then. I am a 68 year old woman and it was "sort of fun" doing thi s job.
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Frig not cold at all,Freezer was all defrosted
64 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Denise from SOUTHINGTON, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
Well the frist thing I did was get out the all the paper work and look under trouble shooting.This frig has a list of codes to try to help narrow down what parts might be bad.Well at frist it seemed it was a Defrost Thermastat?Well thanks to PartSelect it showed me right where it was and step by step how to remove and replace it.It took m e over 2Hr's,after that I let the frig run all night and the next morning(yep warm frig)not the part I needed,well now Im mad,the local part store said you need a 3in1 jump starter easy to in stall at $50.Can'nt bring parts back no way weather thier opened or not.So get home and can'nt see how this jumper is going to wire up to my compresser?So on to the Web site to get some info,find out that this part gets a thumb's down,it puts out more volt's then needed and kills your compresser the reviews where very help full.So back to PartSelect to see more info,then I spoted the Overload/Relay and went to the back of my Frig and this part just plugs right into the compresser,I pulled it of with pliers and Bingo a burn spot melted right through the Overload/Relay.Ordered the right part the same as the old one.Put the part in and Bam,compresser fired right up.If I only did alittle more home work I could off saved alot of head ach and money.Thanks PartSelect I'll alway's click on to your web site for future parts and advise.
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All Instructions for the ARB9059CS
1 - 15 of 1090