ARB2107 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed the YouTube video linked to the Compressor Start Device and Capacitor I purchased. The repair was just as easy as the technician in the video said it would be. Removed the back panel, remove the clamp, worked the Compressor Start Device and Capacitor off the electrical prongs and replace it with the new one. After I reassemble ... Read more the refrigerator, it was fully operational. Very easy to do and only required a few tools.

While investigating problem (at 11:30PM of course) I saw the overload burst into flames. Problem Identified! Easily found and ordered part. Next day delivery. Exact same part easily plugged in. Total refrigerator down time was less than 40 hrs.

Thanks,
Terry

Removed back access cover with quarter inch nut driver, unplugged wire harness, pulled old relay out & plugged in new one, reconnected wire harness, and reinstalled access cover. Piece of cake. (Shipping was very quick) ***Frig was only 3yr an 1 mounth old.*** Maytag - Dependable Huh?

I removed two screws that were holding on broken handle. I put new handle in place and attached it with new screws. Ordering parts on line and receving them in mail a few days later was awsome. I did not need my husbands help at all .

Once I got the right part the repair was quick and easy. All I had to do is get the old part off with a screwdriver and curved needle nose pliers and the old part came right off. The new part went in just as easy. Quick and easy. Less than 15 minutes.

Because the refrigerator worked (38-40 degrees) and the freezer only got down to 29 degrees, I thought that the freezer thermostat had gone bad. Changed it out but results are the same.

It turned out the water valve was not the problem but I think it works a bit better with the new one. I had replaced the main part of the icemaker inside the freezer which had lost the smooth finish in the ice tray. It worked for awhile but quit.
What had happened was the large approx. 1/2 inch tube going from the back of the refrig ... Read more erator to the icemaker tray became plugged with ice. It was difficult to get it out due to the ice but once I did it was easy to melt it and put it back together. All's well that ends well and avoid the cost of a repair call. Working great now.

Soaked the gaskets in bathtub to make them more pliable. They laid flatter and were easier towork with,

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

I just took the old one off and put the new one on..

turn off water and unplug fridge. remove ice maker bottom mounting screw. just loosen the 2 top mounting screws. unplug wire harness from back of fridge. remove old icemaker from freezer compartment. once removed, salvage square endcover and reinstall on new maker. unfasten wire harness from old maker and reinsatll on new one. reinsert th ... Read more ermal wire in new ice maker holding bracket. remove second wiring bracket and reinstall on new maker to hold remaining wires (not mentioned on "how to-" video). remove old ice maker on/off bale and reinstall on new one. remount new maker to top mounting screws, reinsert harness plug into fridge. replace bottom screw,

Remover rear cover at bottom of refrigerator. The replacement run capacitor was the same as the original one. The replacement Overload Relay Combination was slightly different. It plugged onto the compressor the same, but the connector where the power came in from the wiring harness was different. I had to cut off the original connector ... Read more from the wiring harness, and then splice in new connectors onto those two wires which I could then attach to the replacement Overload Relay Combination. Fortunately the connectors I needed were fairly common and I had those available. After that it worked. My suspicion is that the Run Capacitor was fine, and it was just the Overload Relay Combination that failed. Replacing the capacitor without replacing the Overload Relay Combination did not fix the problem.

First it required defrosting since the cooling area was solid ice. Note that I replaced the defrost timer first and no difference. I pulled the icemaker and racks out, then removed the door by removing the 4 screws with 1/4" nut driver. One of the sliding drawer tracks must be removed in order to get the back panel in/ out easily. The 4 ... Read more screws were easily removed with my nutdriver. The screws are not all the same so keep track! Next remove the 4 screws that hold in the vent assembly where the cold air shoots out (center). Remove all of the remaining screws in the panel in the rear of the freezer compartment and pull it out. The themostat is on the right side with 2 wires and a clip that holds it on to the coolant pipe. Pull it off of the pipe and locate the connector - 5-6" from the thermostat. Pull connector apart without damaging the wires inside. Install new part the same way the old one came out and reassemble in reverse order.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.