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ALW891SAW (PALW891SAW) Amana Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ALW891SAW
31 - 45 of 95

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Washer doesn't drain water during spin cycle
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Artur from Burlington, CT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Thanks for very quick delivery and detailed instructions found on this site. I followed the step-by-step instructions and everything went as planned with one exception, I installed the V-belt in a wrong way after replacing the pump. Next time, I will mark or remember the way belt sits between the motor and the pump.
I found a small sock in the pump. Pump itself was still good (I think), but I installed new one along with new belt (just in case).
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belt was cracking and dryer was somewhat noisy
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melody from Silverton, CO
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, rol ler, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.
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Drain hose sprung a leak
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Burton from Sutton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
simple as removing front panel from washer held on by two screws and the hose was right their. Took a few minutes to disconnect it from the pump and pull it out through the rear, then feed the replacement in and reverse the process. Piece of cake. Thank you.
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Tub off center & decided to replace idler while at it.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marion from Gainesville, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged washer and disconnected water lines and drain hose from wall. Removed the two Screws at bottom front panel and tilted lower portion out at bottom and removed panel. Removed screw on each side under to top panel, removed three phillps screws on top control box to tilt the top box forward and unplugged the wiring harness,unscrewed the ground wire, pulled off water level hose, disconnected switch power wire connections. Slid control forward and removed. Found broken spring and anchor slit rusted thru where spring attached to base. Cut a 1/2" strip of metal from a 2x4 metal strap and attached to bottom side of base with screws, set washer uprite and tilted top panel to attach springs to tub. Inserted spring at bottom and pulled spring into slit on side of tub with a heavy gauge bent wire, bent like the top of springs being replaced. Reconnecd wiring to to panel box & Hose, srewed in place at top, reattached screws uhder top front left and right and inserted front panel at top and attached two front screws at bottom. Reattached hoses and plugged in unit. checked for spin, o.k.
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One of the two springs in the front left of the machine broke
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Forked River, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I tipped the tub towards the area where the springs were and connected them. They broke because that particulary area seemed to get moisture and they rusted. Truthfully, although the machine still works, its last days are just down the road.
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we had very low water flow, during fill cycle on our washing machine
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from Gainesville, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I unplugged the washing machine and turned off the water. Located on the back of the machine there are 2-5/16 "screws that hold the top secure, removing these screws gave me access to the water mixing valve. One 1/4 " screw holds the valve in place to the back of the machine, removing this screw alowed me to remove the valve from th e back of the washer. Then disconnecting the water lines and electrical lines from the valve assembly in my hand was easy, with a 5/16"nut driver for the water line hose under the washer lid. The electrical lines just un plug. Repeating these steps in reverse made this job easy. After fixing our washing machine we could not believe how much faster the tub filled up. This will probably save us some on electricity, it use to take about 20 minutes to fill the tank now its filling up in about 5 minutes. Thank you so much for your timely delivery and affordable pricing. I will recommend Parts Select to my family and friends for there future needs! Thank You Anthony
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Idler Pulley Wheel drop off
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bin Teng from San Leandro, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
took the belt out and took the thing out and fixed then put it back.
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Hose was in contact with bracket for tub causing the hose to wear thru.
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Groveville, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.
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Washer broke belt & Idler pulley
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Audie from Lexington, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
First removed all screws with a nutdriver then lifted the body from the base. Removed the two hoses at the pump (be ready for excess water). Removed the 9/16 bolts (4) to drop the motor assy. I also took off the two front balance springs to have easy access. I at this point was able to remove the pulley and put new belt & pump on the moto r. Remember to watch carefully to align belt. removing the idler pulley is a no brainer. Took about 45mins. to complete, a no pro job!!
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Leaking pump
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Goldsboro, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out e xposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump
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Pump worn out - Leaking
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Portsmouth, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful i n getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!
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Hole in Drain Hose
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mike from Lithonia, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.
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Wouldn't pump out water
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jacob from Clarkston, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
I found about 2-3 baby socks stuck in the pump and couldnt remove them so I had to replace the part. Unfortunately I found this website AFTER I took the bad pump off. So I ended up removing the lower front panel and then flipping the washer upside down and removing the bottom of the washer and taking the pump off because I couldnt see a ny other way to get it off. The new pump arrived very quickly and I put it back on and put the bottom panel back on and flipped the washer back right side up. I certainly made it more difficult then it had to be but it was still fairly easy. Now I see all I needed to do was remove the motor to get the pump off. Oh well.
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Belt degraded with failure
4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Henry from Bradenton, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Wrench set
After turning on the machine set to the spin cycle and acertaining that the problem was not a switch or the motor the lower cover was removed (Two sheet metal hex head screws)with appropriate socket. The failure of the belt was self-evident, having sprayed itself in granuals, the belt itself having parted with easy removal.
A search of the internet produced the order for drive belt, which arrived in a timely manner trough Fedex.

Replacing the belt was the most labor intensive part of the process. No mirror being available a CD was placed in the base of the machine in order to view what fasteners (Three torx head) fasened the pump to the motor assembly. Removal of the pump was necessary in order to replace the belt.

The removal of the fasteners required that three holes (120* angular spacing, 1/2" diameter, located on the pump fastener bosses) be drilled in the machine base in order to
remove and replace. This required setting the machine on its side. (Tell the engineers to put an inspection plate there in order to negate having to drill the holes. Thankx.) Pump assembly was lowered off driveshaft and belt replaced. Tensioner set on belt after pump assembly fit to driveshaft and torx fasteners replaced and tightened. Machine powered up, checked for function. In use. Lower cover replaced. I'll be using your buisness for parts again, no doubt.
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The pully seprated, and wore the belt out.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George W. from Thomasville, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I takened the 4 bolts out of the motor assimbley, and droped the whole thing out where I could see the screws that held the water pump on, and I took them out, and lifted the water pump, and put the belt in place, and the new pully on , and the new spring in place. Then I reversed the proseger.
It works like a new one.
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All Instructions for the ALW891SAW
31 - 45 of 95