ALW6 Amana Washer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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drain hose had a hole near wall drain.
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Ed from Klamath Falls, OR
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver
The new hose was exactly like the one I removed. It was simply a matter of putting the new hose through the back, replacing the hose clamp, take the piece off the old hose that makes the bend in the hose to go in the wall drain. Replace the lower front panel with two screws and I was done.
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No water going in the washer
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Mark from Bonita Springs, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Replaced the inlet mixing valve. Two screws and two electrical plug ins and you are done.
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Water filled after machine off
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Darcy from Merrill, WI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed the plate screws. Found valve, unplugged wires, removed hose and replaced reattaching everything. Replaced plate. Done
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No hot water being drawn in.
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Kimberly from Eastpointe, MI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Just as everyone else explained, disconnect power and water supply, lift top of machine to get to part, disconnect old part and replace exactly with new, hook water and power supply back up and you're done. I was pleased and proud to have done it under 30 minutes (girl power!!) and that included start to finish.
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pump leakage
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Ryan from Plumas Lake, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
You tubed this procedure and it took 20 min.
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pump leaking water
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millie from hot springs village, AR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
remove motor and pump togather 4 bolts holding unhook two hose unplug electrial connector and slide out remove 3 screws holding pump to motor be aware of direction belt from moter to tub then place new pump back at same location as old pump replace motor with pump attached back to same location as begfor
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pump seal leaking
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james from Cornville, AZ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Socket set
After pulling front lower panel off, disconnected idler pulley spring and left side tub stabilizer spring to allow room to get motor out the front. Took belt off transmision pulley, unbolted 4 motor mount bolts, dropped the motor/pump assembly down and disconnected the electrical plug (motor). Took motor/pump assembly out, flipped it over
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, unbolted 3 pump bolts to remove old pump, which came right off. Then reversed the whole process. Pretty straightforward, just time.
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Water Leak
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Robert from Orange, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Although the Maytag website no longer had a repair manual in their database, I was able to locate one fairly easily online. After removing the motor/washer pump, it was easy to remove the 3 screws holding the washer pump to the motor. Unfortunately, it turned out the motor hub shaft had corroded and removing the pump needed some ... per
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suasion. Patience and a rubber mallet eventually separated the water pump from the motor. Re-installing went quickly and, so far, no leaks and the washing machine has not started walking across the floor.
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Replaced Washer Pump
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Roger from Shoreline, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the tension spring from the belt retention belt, removed the belt from the large pulley in the back of the washer, removed the 4 bolts holding in the motor and washer pump, removed wiring harness, disconnected the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump and pulled out the motor and the washer pump. Turned the motor over and using the
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Torx driver (#20) removed the 3 bolts holding on the pump. Gently wiggled and pried the washer pump off of the motor, replaced the pump and tightened down the Torx bolts carefully so the pump didn't crack or break it is just plastic, but had to be sure the pump was seated tightly so the pump would fit back into place and also so it wouldn't leak, after making sure it was tightly attached I reversed the process to put it back together.
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broken idler pulley
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craig from wadena, MN
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
knife to losen top, remove rear tabs securing top, unplug electical from timer and switches, unplug front door wiring, 2 bolts remove front, lift front pannel to remove. tape belt on drum on top. under drum you can see the belt around worn pulley. lift idler pulley assembly, remove belt from pulley, snap ring holds pulley in place remove
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woren pulley, install new, replace snap ring, restring belt. remove tape. spin drum to assure alignment. reassemble.
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cold water would not shut off
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John from Eagle River, WI
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
thought wire between hot and cold valve was to short but after many phone calls found out valve could be ajusted by prying carefully up clips and moving valve closer not in directions
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Water leaking under the washer
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Laura from Westfield, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver
Removed old hose, drained the water from the hose. Put new hose on.
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The pump housing had a large crack in it
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John from Washington, PA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The hardest part was removing the tub from washer by myself. I simply removed the bolts holding the sides to the bottom of the unit and lifted it straight off. Be careful when you remove the springs from the drum so they don't spring back and puncture the drain line. Thank you RTV gasket maker. Once the drum was free from the base, i tilt
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ed the drum back exposing the pump housing. I used a pair of pliers to remove both drain lines then removed the 3 hex screws freeing the pump. I had no problem removing it from the motor shaft, it slipped right off. I put everything back together as easily as it came apart.
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