ALW6 Amana Washer - Instructions
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Hung up on rinse cycle, would not drain.
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eugene from Austin, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed three screws to gain access to the timer. It has a label which describes how to remove the contol knob but does not address the removal of the timer knob skirt. I tried prying it off but was unsuccessful. This caused the removal of the timer to be very difficult. After the skirt came off the timer was easy to remove. The ti
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mer is held in place by one screw. The new timer went in real easily.
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Had to pull the motor to change the belt
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Nesconset, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged washer from power source. Dissconnect the water supply. Take off lower panel. Undo big spring. Remove 4 bolts that hold the motor. Unplug the motor. remove motor and belt. While on the bench I regreased the Idler pulley. then reverse the procedure to reassemble
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Pump worn out - Leaking
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from Portsmouth, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful i
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n getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!
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Leaking pump
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Goldsboro, NC
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out e
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xposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump
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pulley was worn out and would not turn belt was also worn outand had chunks out of it
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Linda from Peggs, OK
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
Laid washer on its side and had to remove the motor,replaced the pulley and belt replaced the motor and put all parts back together washer spins and runs like it did when it was new.we did not need the screw or nut but did not know when ordering parts
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Wouldn't pump out water
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jacob from Clarkston, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Socket set
I found about 2-3 baby socks stuck in the pump and couldnt remove them so I had to replace the part. Unfortunately I found this website AFTER I took the bad pump off. So I ended up removing the lower front panel and then flipping the washer upside down and removing the bottom of the washer and taking the pump off because I couldnt see a
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ny other way to get it off. The new pump arrived very quickly and I put it back on and put the bottom panel back on and flipped the washer back right side up. I certainly made it more difficult then it had to be but it was still fairly easy. Now I see all I needed to do was remove the motor to get the pump off. Oh well.
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Washer pump and old spin belt
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Deborah from Minneapolis, MN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
I first ordered the parts and to my dismay, I ordered the wrong belt for the spin belt. I called customer service in which received an Return Merchandise Number and ordered the correct belt. PartSelect was prompt on sending the correct out by FedEx, thank you for an excellent experience.
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Belt and idler pulley bad.
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Holcombe, WI
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Remove the front of the washer. Remove the pump and motor assembly using the 1/2 inch socket. Remove the pump from the motor and hoses from the pump. Replace the bad idler pulley and place new belt on pulley. Reassemble the pump to the motor and install the assembly back into the washing machine. Reasemble the hoses and put belt on drive
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n pulley for the drum. Reinstall the front cover.
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A small river running out the bottom front.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Terry from Brentwood, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
I used my three jaw slide hammer to remove the pump from the motor. How are other people getting it off? Pump made alot of rubbing noise after installation. I tried pushing it on farther and also prying it back off a little with no luck. It's really cheap looking and I was scared of breaking it. The thing wasn't leaking so I called it goo
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d....
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"banging" when in spin cycle.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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david from brunswick, GA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
checked for unbalanced load. still banging. removed lower front panel by removing 2 screws. then removed front top panel- 2 more screws. turned unit on spin cycle to see what was going on. this is dangerous as many moving parts are exposed, so keep everything clear. banging was the tensioner slamming back and forth. unpluged washer from o
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utlet and felt along the belt to find part of the 'v' shaped balt had come part, leaving a gap in the "v". ordered part.when i got the part, i removed 4 larger bolts that held the motor, pully, and pump. i unplugged the wires for the motor, and removed the belt from the bsket side pulley assembly by slipping it off and under the shaft. i removed the torx screws that held the pump on the motor and removed the belt. PAY ATTENTION to how the belt was in between the pully and pump assembly or you will have to remove and redo it. reassemble the pump over the belt, pully, motor, and put the belt on the drum side pully before bolting it to the washing machine. it is fairly heavy and tight, so you might need help. this was not hard and you do not need to take apart the washer except for the two front panels and the motor assembly. i just pulled the unit away from the wall and tipped it back to access the inside. take your time and pay attention, and make sure it is not plugged into the wall and you should be fine.
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screw loss in Drive Bell
3 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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james from Phoenix, AZ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Screw broke lose in agitator from drive bell stripped (plastic) for transmission gear. Received new Drive Bell and had to lightly cut out old from Agitator housing with saws all, cleaned years of soap build up on steel spline with wire grinder, lubed the Drive Bell inter and pounded on to spline gear with rubber mallet, I thought a bit to
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o much force but what the heck I landed to the same bearing point as before. Work Out Great.
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Cold water flow very slow.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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William from NEW DURHAM, NH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed and replaced mixing valve. Shut off hot & cold water supply to machine. Pull machine electric plug. Access back of machine. Remove water supply to machine. (Pliers) Be sure to keep some paper towels handy to pick up residual water. Remove screw that holds mixing valve mounting plate to machine. Pull plate away from machine. Undo
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hot and cold elect. connectors to valve. Remove water supply to valve. (Black hose-screwdriver.) Remove screw holding valve to mount plate. (Nut driver.) Install new valve onto mount plate. Reverse process used to remove valve. Test by turning on machine.
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Leak from seal on pump
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Jim from Courtland, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This washer was "professionally" repaired six months ago....that being said, I found two of the three Torx screws holding the pump to the motor to be lying inside the cabinet. This allowed the pump to move and wallow out the seal. Replaced the pump and replaced the screws correctly. No leaks, no problems. Pump is an exact replacement from
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PartSelect and ease of installation was no problem. Would suggest if you are going to replace the pump, order the three screws and replace them too.
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Water Inlet valve wouldn't work for cold water
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DAVID from ORLAND PARK, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Water inlet valve was different than the one shown on web photo. The hose supplied was the wrong size so I had to use the original old hose. Wire harness had to be modified since the electrodes were on opposite sides of the valve. Overall I was disappointed with the part and the service.
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I had to replace the tub,because it cracked when replacing the bearing and seal
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Lanoka Harbor, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I had no problem replacing the triple lip seal and bearing. I cracked the plastic tub, which after 10 years was very britle and cracked in two places ON THE SIDE. To remove the bearing I had to improvise a bearing removal tool using a puller I had on hand and a 1 lb metal coffee can. It worked great! You need to use some type of pullin
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g device to remove the bearing without damaging the tub.
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