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ALW1 Amana Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ALW1
61 - 75 of 160

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Idler Pulley Wheel drop off
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bin Teng from San Leandro, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
took the belt out and took the thing out and fixed then put it back.
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Water inlet valve was clog. water was very slow to fill the machine.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from Saranac Lake, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I unplug the power plug, turned off water supply and unsrewed the water lines connected to the clogged valve.I unsrewed six screws on the front of the washing machine and took the front panals off. lifted the the washing top and replace the hose and intake valve, which was shipped to me. put the top down and put the two front panals. reco nnected the water supply to the new valve and turned the water back on. connected the electric plug.works as good as new.
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Hose was in contact with bracket for tub causing the hose to wear thru.
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Groveville, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.
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Washer broke belt & Idler pulley
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Audie from Lexington, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
First removed all screws with a nutdriver then lifted the body from the base. Removed the two hoses at the pump (be ready for excess water). Removed the 9/16 bolts (4) to drop the motor assy. I also took off the two front balance springs to have easy access. I at this point was able to remove the pulley and put new belt & pump on the moto r. Remember to watch carefully to align belt. removing the idler pulley is a no brainer. Took about 45mins. to complete, a no pro job!!
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no cold or cool water only hot
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Linda from Carlos, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
It was so simple I don't think I even need to explain. Couple of screws in and out and done. Saved big money by doing the repair myself...I was surprised how quickly the part arrived. I was able to access from the back of my machine. Did not have to remove the top. Very easy thanks
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Leaking pump
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Goldsboro, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out e xposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump
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Washer was not agitating
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from North Kingstown, RI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
Ipulled the front panel off and found that the brake pads had broken into pieces, ordered new pads. Two of the pads were accessed from the front of the machine and were relatively easy to replace by removing the two attaching bolts, spreading gap in area that they fit into with a plastic pry tool. I gained access to the third pad by remov ing the punch-outs on the side of the machine (circular). If I had not had these prepuched pieces available to me I would have simply cut an access hole in the rear of the machine with a jig saw, (who will ever see it).
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Hole in Drain Hose
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mike from Lithonia, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.
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Had to pull the motor to change the belt
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Nesconset, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged washer from power source. Dissconnect the water supply. Take off lower panel. Undo big spring. Remove 4 bolts that hold the motor. Unplug the motor. remove motor and belt. While on the bench I regreased the Idler pulley. then reverse the procedure to reassemble
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Hung up on rinse cycle, would not drain.
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eugene from Austin, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed three screws to gain access to the timer. It has a label which describes how to remove the contol knob but does not address the removal of the timer knob skirt. I tried prying it off but was unsuccessful. This caused the removal of the timer to be very difficult. After the skirt came off the timer was easy to remove. The ti mer is held in place by one screw. The new timer went in real easily.
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Pump worn out - Leaking
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Portsmouth, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful i n getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!
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pulley was worn out and would not turn belt was also worn outand had chunks out of it
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Linda from Peggs, OK
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
Laid washer on its side and had to remove the motor,replaced the pulley and belt replaced the motor and put all parts back together washer spins and runs like it did when it was new.we did not need the screw or nut but did not know when ordering parts
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Wouldn't pump out water
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jacob from Clarkston, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
I found about 2-3 baby socks stuck in the pump and couldnt remove them so I had to replace the part. Unfortunately I found this website AFTER I took the bad pump off. So I ended up removing the lower front panel and then flipping the washer upside down and removing the bottom of the washer and taking the pump off because I couldnt see a ny other way to get it off. The new pump arrived very quickly and I put it back on and put the bottom panel back on and flipped the washer back right side up. I certainly made it more difficult then it had to be but it was still fairly easy. Now I see all I needed to do was remove the motor to get the pump off. Oh well.
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Belt degraded with failure
4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Henry from Bradenton, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Wrench set
After turning on the machine set to the spin cycle and acertaining that the problem was not a switch or the motor the lower cover was removed (Two sheet metal hex head screws)with appropriate socket. The failure of the belt was self-evident, having sprayed itself in granuals, the belt itself having parted with easy removal.
A search of the internet produced the order for drive belt, which arrived in a timely manner trough Fedex.

Replacing the belt was the most labor intensive part of the process. No mirror being available a CD was placed in the base of the machine in order to view what fasteners (Three torx head) fasened the pump to the motor assembly. Removal of the pump was necessary in order to replace the belt.

The removal of the fasteners required that three holes (120* angular spacing, 1/2" diameter, located on the pump fastener bosses) be drilled in the machine base in order to
remove and replace. This required setting the machine on its side. (Tell the engineers to put an inspection plate there in order to negate having to drill the holes. Thankx.) Pump assembly was lowered off driveshaft and belt replaced. Tensioner set on belt after pump assembly fit to driveshaft and torx fasteners replaced and tightened. Machine powered up, checked for function. In use. Lower cover replaced. I'll be using your buisness for parts again, no doubt.
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The pully seprated, and wore the belt out.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George W. from Thomasville, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I takened the 4 bolts out of the motor assimbley, and droped the whole thing out where I could see the screws that held the water pump on, and I took them out, and lifted the water pump, and put the belt in place, and the new pully on , and the new spring in place. Then I reversed the proseger.
It works like a new one.
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All Instructions for the ALW1
61 - 75 of 160