ALG956EAC (PALG956EAC) Amana Dryer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Air duct assembly broken.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Summerville, SC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I used a large flat head screwdriver to lift top up, then located 2 screws in the top right and left hand side to remove front. Remove the three Phillip Head Screws that holds the assy in place slide out. Mine had 2 metal pieces with wires. I simply unplugged and took metal pieces and installed in the new assy. Remove excess lint put fron
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t back on lowered lid and done! 15-20 minutes
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heard the sound of loose change in the dryer
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Averill Park, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
removed the front panel and the drum panel cover.replaced the guides and the felt pads and re-assembled.
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broken lint screen
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marlo from DeKalb, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
took one out - put new one in
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Button to start dryer
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Loretta E. from Miamisburg, OH
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!
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Looked inside the dryer and the lint duct was melted thru and pieces were flying around loose inside the dryer.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from Ormond Beach, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Once I was able to take apart the door assembly, I was able to determine that I needed the lint duct assembly. The parts website was very helpful with diagrams and explanations so that I could order the part with confidence. Since laundry is so important in our house I paid for expedited shipping. The part arrived in Florida less than
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24 hours after it was ordered and soon after it was installed and the dryer was working properly.
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Squealing idler pulley
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dave from Brighton, CO
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Propped the machine up in the front, removed the front panel, the door assembly, and the front drum support. Use a Sharpie to mark wire positions. This will help during re-assembly. To get the drum out, you first have to remove the belt from the motor pulley. Drum slides right out. You will need snap-ring pliers to remove the pulley
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from the idler arm. I also replaced the drive belt because it was cheap, and always a good idea to replace it when you are this far into the machine if it is a few years old. Re-assemble in the reverse order of disassembly. An easy fix for the average do-it-yourself person.
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The dryer made a random grinding/rubbing noise during operation.
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Timothy from Hardeeville, SC
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
After removing the lower access panel, I observed the drum and belt and saw it turning freely. The support rollers in the back turned freely and were in good condition as well. At odd intervals the unit made a humming or grinding noise, and i decided to check the blower wheel (the other rotating part in the system). I found that the ce
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ntral hub of the wheel (which is made of a nylon like plastic) had sheared off from the wheel itself. I ordered a new part and started to remove the old wheel. **NOTE** many of the stories I read described how this part would have a reverse thread, it did not and that cost me an extra 30 minutes to figure out (the new part had arrows showing the correct direction to put on and remove - the original didn't). Once everything was cleaned and reassembled, I started the dryer again, but got no heat. I had previously replaced the heating element, so I thought my wiring was wrong. That wasn't the problem, but a hint from this site about checking the incoming wiring was the solution, my ground wire had come off the terminal in the back of the dryer and I wasn't getting the volatge across the element that it required. With the ground wire back in place, everything worked fine.
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Dryer drum wouldn't turn and motor would shut off
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cynthia M from Westfield, MA
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too
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shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!
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belt was cracking and dryer was somewhat noisy
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melody from Silverton, CO
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, rol
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ler, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.
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Belt Was Broken
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Kealakekua,, AL
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
Unable to find a repair manual or accurate diagram, I forged ahead and removed the top and front panels of the dryer. It took two tries to figure out how to thread the belt (nine of my ten thumbs kept getting in the way!), but after a coffee break, the job came together, and I've taken the clothesline down!
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Dryer sounded like it was going down manhiem road (pot holes).
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bradley from Crest Hill, IL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I removed the access panel on the lower front. Then I removed the front door panel (noting where the wires went; 1 for red, 2 for black, 3 for grey). Then I removed the 2 screws holding the top down and lifted it up. Then I reached underneath the drum and took the belt off the tensioner. Then I removed the front drum panel with the li
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nt filter, guides, and front felt seal. Then I took out the drum. Then I replaced the roller and post (with bracket). The old post was worn, so it was a good thing I got the new post (thanks to someone else's reccomendation). Then I put it all back together. It was surprizingly easy. I just wish these parts weren't so dad gum expensive. I paid $20 for one roller and post. I wish I could have also replaced the felt seals ($17 each), the other roller (another $8) and the sliders and felt pads ($20 per side). And a new belt. By then, you might as well buy a new dryer!
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will not blow air
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Ada, OK
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I first unpluged the dryer. Then I
Removed two screws and removed bottom cover, Then removed the door assembly.Here I had to unplug the light and door switches. I then removed the four screws that holds the tub mount in place, Then I removed the eight screws that hold the blower cover in place, then removed the blower. replaced blow ... Read more er and reassembled in reverse. I started the dryer and it worked fine.
Removed two screws and removed bottom cover, Then removed the door assembly.Here I had to unplug the light and door switches. I then removed the four screws that holds the tub mount in place, Then I removed the eight screws that hold the blower cover in place, then removed the blower. replaced blow ... Read more er and reassembled in reverse. I started the dryer and it worked fine.
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noise in dryer
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JOHN from MODENA, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
took frount off ,then filter, pulled drum out, then blower plate & spun impeller off. went back together easy ,except belt . that gave me a little problem but finally got it thanks
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Squealing when running
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eric from Carlsbad, NM
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I had already taken the dryer apart prior to changing the felt seal. Had oiled the rollers, greased the bearings & vacuumed the whole inside of the dryer out. Had used a high temp lubricant on the seal & had stopped squeaking for about a month. I ordered 2 seals & when they arrived, I popped the top of the dryer off using the putty knife
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to pry the spring latches. I opened the top up & leaned it against a wall. I disconnected the wiring to the light & the switch in the door, making note of the wiring order. Then used a nut driver to take the 2 screws from the inside out, that holds the front cover in place. Then the same for the 4 screws holding the front bulkhead in place. Then lifted up & out from the unit. Then used the putty knife to scrap the adhesive & old seal off the bulkhead. Cleaned as much of the adhesive off, then applied some high temp silicone adhesive to the bulkhead, placed the new seal on, using some clamps to hold it in place. After making sure it had adhered to the seal & bulkhead. Did the reversal of the above mentioned steps. Moved the unit to laundry room, plugged it in then started it & voila no more squeaking dryer.
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Drum stopped turning, motor still running
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from PORTLAND, OR
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer stopped tumbling, so bad belt was my first thought. Dryer is in vacation home so did not have immediate access to it to diagnose. Ordered belt and discovered that the poorly designed motor pulley had broken and the belt jumped onto the motor shaft and burned through the original belt. Week 2 after ordering pulley, installation went
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per YouTube video. Glad I also replaced the belt because it was brittle and cracked. Suspect it had been slipping because sheets would ball up into a log, possibly because the drum wasn't spinning fast enough. Anyhoo, after repair all seems OK.
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