ALG8 - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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catch mounted on door broke
94 of 127 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from Mt. Pleasant, SC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.
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The dryer heated up for a few minutes and then cooled down.
67 of 76 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Limington, ME
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
1 Unplug power.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Look ... Read more ing inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Look ... Read more ing inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.
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Dryer would make humming noise and stop running as Motor would overheat.
66 of 83 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bryan from Everett, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This was much easier than I expected. I pulled the front covers, released the belt (just move tentioner pulley with fingers to release belt), removed the drum to access the motor. The motor was easy to remove. I loosened then nut in the fan assy using my channel locks (because I did not have a socket that big and then removed the wire har
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ness clip to prepare the motor for removal. The two mounting clips were the tricky part as the fit over a metal ear on each side locked by the spring tension of the clips. It looks like a special tool my be available but I simply used my big straitslot and heavy downward pressure to remove and install. This repair can be completed by anyone with very basic mechanical skills and impress the spouse.
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The dryer would start to heat then the heat would stop
58 of 70 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Theodore from Riverside, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I changed out the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Mainly because that was what my research indicated was the problem. I then found some more information online that indicated the gas solenoid valves were bad. I ordered them from you and replaced them. The problem was fixed.
In order to replace the valves ... Read more you need to remove the top panel. Two screws at the top of the front door assembly hold it on. Remove the screws, lift up on the front panel door assembly and move it to the side. The drum will rest in place. In the lower left corner, under the drum, you will see the solenoids. Two screws attach a plate that holds down the solenoids. Take the hold down plate off, disconnect the control wires attached to the solenoids and lift out the solenoid/control valves. To assemble everything, work backwards to the start. Good Luck
In order to replace the valves ... Read more you need to remove the top panel. Two screws at the top of the front door assembly hold it on. Remove the screws, lift up on the front panel door assembly and move it to the side. The drum will rest in place. In the lower left corner, under the drum, you will see the solenoids. Two screws attach a plate that holds down the solenoids. Take the hold down plate off, disconnect the control wires attached to the solenoids and lift out the solenoid/control valves. To assemble everything, work backwards to the start. Good Luck
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Dryer would heat up initially, but then turn off and not restart
58 of 75 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bryant from Round Lake, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I did reseach online and the first thing they told you to check were the thermostats and the thermal fuse, so I ordered those parts. I took the dryer apart, found the parts and tested them with my ohm meter and they all tested fine. I should have tested them initially before ordering them. Then I did more research and found out that if
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the thermostats are fine, it is more than likely the Coil Valves and there are 2. I also learned that you can test these parts and they may test correctly, but they will test differently when they are hot versues cold. I seemed confident that these would do the trick. I ordered the parts and replaced them, which was very easy to do. Then I put the dryer back together, started it and it worked perfectly!!!
PartSelect website was very help and I received the parts very quickly. I'm returning the parts that were not used for a refund.
PartSelect website was very help and I received the parts very quickly. I'm returning the parts that were not used for a refund.
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dryer would get hot for a while, then quit heating
56 of 70 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sharon from Houston, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
After reading about other people with this same problem I took a chance that this would be what was wrong with my dryer.I took off the front cover of the dryer by removing two screws. I located the faulty coils and simply plugged in the 2 new coils Tah-dah Probably coud have been done without even removing the front panel, but since it
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was off I vacuumed out the lint ( actually my husband did all of the above, but I tell a better tale than he does and I diagnosed the problem and ordered theparts)
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motor pulley went bad
55 of 68 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from Sedalia, MO
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First unplugged unit .2nd took off front cover and removed bottom screws and that allows it to open up and lean back.3rd pryed the motor lock down springs by applying pressure down and out . forth used vise grips to hold motor shaft, while using the 7/8 socket to loosen the blower fan.Last go through steps to put back together.
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Gas Flame Would Drop Out
49 of 66 people
found this instruction helpful.
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FRED from BRIELLE, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr
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Intermittent or no gas ignition, HSI ignightor working
43 of 50 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from Sauk Village, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read
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about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.
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The original lint flyer was falling apart
42 of 47 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Corona, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I ordered a new lint filter from PartSelect. The part was in stock, and it was delivered to my home in approximately 40 hours -- yes, a little more than a day and a half! To do the repair, I removed the old lint filter and put the new one in its place.
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Blower fan cracked
44 of 54 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rick from Birch Run, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Unplug the power cord from the unit. Remove the lower front panel; then the upper front panel including the door (unplug wire to door switch). Then remove the cover on the fan housing. Need to block the motor from turning; I used a stick to jamb the front of the motor; then unscrew the old blower fan and screw on the new one. Then repla
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ce the cover and put front panels back on.
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Load Squeaky noise when the dryer is tumbling
39 of 43 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Antonio from Elk River, MN
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
To make working on the dryer easier we tipped the dryer back, about 45 degrees, removed the bottom panel, the door panel, note: make sure to mark the inside chassis or case with a sharpie where the wires go by color, etc… note: this makes it easy to place every thing back in order. I removed three screws on the bottom left side, to allow
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the more room for me to remove the drum. You can not remove the drum just yet but until the rubber belt is removed. I went below where the tension wheel is… it’s back behind the motor… incidental the tension wheel and the arm was the problem, it had warn to one side. Now release the rubber belt around drum. I pulled the drum out. The motor assembly is all one piece so it’s easy to remove. Don’t forget to unplug the plastic Molex plug and mark where you wires go. Two screws in front on the motor assemble and the whole assemble comes out. From here I could do a good job of cleaning the motor assemble and replacing the parts without any difficulty. Re-assembly was really easy, just one issue with placing the rubber belt took some time, and I need some help. I was finished in less than two hours. Bingo fixed!!
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Gas burner would not ignite
37 of 42 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Conroe, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)
Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unpl ... Read more ug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.
Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unpl ... Read more ug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.
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Dryer would squeal when drying clothes
36 of 42 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JOHN from CORPUS CHRISTI, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Unplugged dryer, turned off gas, raised front of dryer with two 2X4's on edge resting on legs, removed two lower panel screws, removed lower panel. Removed lower blower & filter assembly, screws (3) are on the inside of drum. (Good chance to clean it out) Removed two lower front upper main panel screws. Supported top panel with wood for a
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ccess. Removed panel slowly, marked wires that go to door switch, set panel aside. Removed tension on belt by reaching in on the right lower side and unhooking the tensioner from belt, look to see how it is installed, for reinstallation on assembly. Pulled drum out slowly as not to damage seals on drum. replaced parts, attached with self tapping screws.(screws all the same size) reassembly in reverse order. Will need to put belt on drum before installing drum. Check drum alignment with rollers and seals. Used very small amount of high pressure grease on roller bracket and shaft assembly where the support roller shaft spins for lubrication. All's quiet. (Vacuumed out inside while dissassembled)
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Dryer would start and heat, but after 1st cycle the burner would not fire and a buzzing sound was coming from the gas valve solenoid area. Igniter and other functions worked fine.
32 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Bedford, IN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.
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