ALG4 Amana Dryer - Instructions

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the g ... Read more low plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

1. I removed the lower front panel.
2. Carful remove the front door making not of which wires whent were of the switch
3. Removed the front bulkhead.
4. Drilled out the rivits that held the bracket in place.
5 Use a pop rivit gun and 1/8 in pop rivit and washer.
6 Installed the felt pad and the drum guide.
... Read more 7 Put the whole thing back together.

I love your web site the exploded diagrams make fixing my dryer quite easy. I do it. so for under $50 my dryer is almost like new.

After removing the front of the dryer, I took out the front assembly where the seal and glide brackets attatch. I replaced the bad cylinder glide by drilling the old rivets out and re-riveting the new glide in place from the back side. I then replaced the felt pads and glides on the glide brackets and glued a new cylinder seal around the ... Read more front assembly. I reccomend having 4 hands for placing the cylinder seal around the assembly with fresh glue.

Not too difficult. Take out of box, insert into dryer slot.
Done

YouTube's videos to diagnose potential issues. Found the parts at a great price at Parts Select website. Had the parts in 2 days. Installed them dryer works like new.

First, leaned dryer back and removed 2 screws at bottom front panel.
Then removed 2 screws at bottom of door assembly.
Pulled bottom door assembly forward and down.
Disconnected "can't go wrong" wiring connectors.
Then removed old cylinder glide rivets at bottom of cylinder using drill motor with 1/4" d ... Read more rill.
I installed new felt pads on new cylinder glides. Then installed glides with rivet gun.
Reconnected wire harness.
Installed door assembly and lower panel assembly.
BACK IN BUSINESS! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!

Watched YouTube video

Remove the 2 screws at bottom of front panel, remove lower panel. Then remove the two screws at bottom of front door. Lift door forward so spring hooks can disengage from the top panel. remove door, disconnect the 5 wires to the door latch and light. remove the two screws at top of dryer to lift up top panel. Remove 4 screws at the fron ... Read more t holding the drum. Disengage the belt from the tension pulley and remove drum. Replaced both roller wheels at the rear of the drum( one was broke). Then remove the screws (about 6 holding the plate in front of the blower wheel. Use a wrench to hold the nut at the back of the motor and a scocket wrench to remove blower wheel. (The Blower wheel was broken from the shaft and was spinning freely). Then do it all backwards to re assemble. i spent more time cleaning the lint from the inside than I took making the repair!

Removed lower and upper panel on front of dryer, realized I did not have to remove upper but it was better visually. I replaced coils using old cage replacing two coils paying attention to position. Next I replaced cycling thermostat and boosting heater (which piggy back). Lastly I replaced Radiant flame sensor (which was working, but old ... Read more ).
Everything worked perfect for a little over a hundred dollars, a repair person would have cost me $ 75 to $ 80 dollars for a handshake plus parts and labor. I am very pleased.

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and da ... Read more rkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .

Dryer would only tumble for ~15 min then stop. During this time it would be really loud. Turns out to be a bad Motor. To replace 1) Removed bottom kick panel by removing 2 screws. 2) Then removed upper front cover by 2 additional screws. 3) Disconnected thermostat (marking location of wires on paper). 4) Removed blower housing (3 screws ... Read more )undid the rib belt from the drum by pushing the pulley wheel up so the belt could be loosened and removed from motor. 5)Removed the front cover of the dryer opening by removing 2 screws. 6) Lifted up and then puled it out to expose the drum. 7) Removed the drum w/belt from the dryer exposing the motor. 8) Removed 2 screws from the motor and disconnected the plug from it. Slid it all the way out. 9) Need to remove (3 screws) the metal faceplate from motor to access the blower wheel (plastic). 10) Unscrewed the plastic wheel and removed 2 screws to remove the motor from the frame. reversed the process for reassembly. Sounds tougher than it really was - only took 30-45 min. Suggestion - write down on paper location of any wires you disconnect - makes reassembly very easy. Also recommend vacuuming any lint in the dryer while it is completely accessible.

Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and r ... Read more everse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

Replaced the recommended drum rollers, belt and tensioner, light bulb. Found repair manual online (bit of a hunt)made job easier still took 2.5 hrs. Then turned drum by hand no squeak. Turned it on and still squeaked. Isolated to motor. Replaced it (had to take dryer completely apart again but went quicker due to experience also had to ... Read more disassemble the motor assy and rebuild. Took 1.5 hrs works like new now. The design of the dryer is not bad remove bottom front panel first, screws at very bottom of panel then two more screws are uncovered to remove front. It just lifts up and pulls out. then remove four bolts which hold front frame on (supports drum) all this has to be done to reach the replacement parts. drum wheels are held on by snap rings not the screws (real fun if you take them out) reverse to reassemble.

First I went to Maytag.com thinking it was best to go to the manufacturer for parts. Their search engine did not even recognize my part number. I tried every way I could think of. Then I just entered the model number in google and it sent me to the Partselect.com website. Diagrams came up and I chose parts from the pictures. The parts arr ... Read more ived in about 3 or 4 days and fit perfectly.