ALE9 Dryer - Instructions
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Dryer drum wouldn't turn and motor would shut off
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cynthia M from Westfield, MA
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too
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shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!
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Noisy and blower wheel spin without turn motor shaft
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from FORT WAYNE, IN
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed lower panel, door assembly, belt and drum.
Removed blower wheel cover.
Used dremmel tool to cut plastic from metal that attaches the blower to the motor shaft.
Used adjustable wrench to keep motor shaft from turning.
Used vise grip to clamp on metal and turned to loosen blower wheel.
Attached new blower an ... Read more d re-assembled.
Removed blower wheel cover.
Used dremmel tool to cut plastic from metal that attaches the blower to the motor shaft.
Used adjustable wrench to keep motor shaft from turning.
Used vise grip to clamp on metal and turned to loosen blower wheel.
Attached new blower an ... Read more d re-assembled.
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Drum stopped turning, motor still running
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from PORTLAND, OR
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer stopped tumbling, so bad belt was my first thought. Dryer is in vacation home so did not have immediate access to it to diagnose. Ordered belt and discovered that the poorly designed motor pulley had broken and the belt jumped onto the motor shaft and burned through the original belt. Week 2 after ordering pulley, installation went
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per YouTube video. Glad I also replaced the belt because it was brittle and cracked. Suspect it had been slipping because sheets would ball up into a log, possibly because the drum wasn't spinning fast enough. Anyhoo, after repair all seems OK.
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squeeling noise & drum turning real slow
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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roy from tunkhannock, PA
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
unplug appliance.removed 2 screws @ the rear of dryer top to tip lid back. unplugged the door switch wires.took out 3 philip screws that hold lint screen to inside of drum.removed 2 screws @ dryer front top. lifted dryer front panel off. the drum was now loose. slipped off old belt - replaced with new. set drum back into place. made sure
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new belt was on motor pulley & behind tensioner pulley arm. replace & reconnect items in reverse order. plug back in & test. after seeing the wear on the plastic tensioner pulley i regret not ordering that part for replacement also.
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Dryer was not heating up.
4 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kenneth from Fort Wayne, IN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The video on the web-site was very helpful in showing how to take it apart. First we remove the power plug from the wall outlet. Then we used flat scrapper to push the top two hidden clips to release the Dryer's top. We used the nut driver to unscrew the two screws that held the front panel. We carefully remove the wires that were connec
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ted to switch sensor for the door, and the lights. Next step was to unscrew couple more screws that held the front piece from the main fan housing. At the bottom locate the tensioner of the belt. Release it. Remove the dryer drum with the belt. We took the opportunity to clean off the lint that was all over on the bottom of the dryer. We then could reach the bottom left back of the dryer to unscrew the screws that held the heater unit. Before that we unscrew and release the wires for the Thermal fuse and the limit thermostat which are all located on the heating unit. Then we replace with new pieces. Upon removal of the heating unit we noticed the broken heating element. Next was to place the drum back in. We made sure that the drum lined up with the rear support piece then the front. We rotated the drum just to make sure that it was sitting correctly. Then we screwed the front housing unit. Then we put the front panel back on the hooks at the bottom. That help to line up the front panel with the main chasis. We connected all the connectors to the right terminals. Last was to set the top down on to the chasis. We checked that the duct in the rear is not obstucted. Lastly was plugging in the power cord and testing the dryer. It is working again. Thanks to Part Select's video and parts. Total time was just over half an hour.
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Worn Felt Seal
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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robert from hillsborough, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove bottom two screws on lower front panel, remove panel. remove two screws on lower portion of door panel, pull bottom panel towards yourself to release pins at the top. Disconnect wiring for light and door switch (make sure to note what wires go where. Complete removal of front door panel. Remove 4 screws holding cylinder frame in
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place, lift to remove. remove remnants of old felt seal, use rotary tool to remove excess glue, etc. apply glue (used rubberized gorilla super glue), apply felt seal - allow glue to set up. reinstall in reverse direction from removal. Be sure to use glue as there are no clips or other retaining pieces for the new felt and it will not hold in place. overall pretty easy.
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Dryer wouldnt heat up
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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HILDEGARD from NAMPA, ID
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
A friend did the repair for me. Very simple. Saved me a lot of money by getting the parts and fixing the problem. Thanks!
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Vent filter was broken, and lots of lint was passing through to vent line
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Amy from Petaluma, CA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed the two nuts at the bottom of the dryer front to be able to move the front piece. Removed three screws holding the vent assembly in place. Removed vent assembly, replaced with new part and replaced screws and nuts.
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Cylinder Seal came out
4 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marcia from Hammond, LA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Early in the life of my dryer, the Cylinder Seal came out. For the past two years I put off buying the part. When it came in, I p[opped the top of the dryer, removed the two screws holding on the front panel, and pulled the Cylinder of the back wall of the dryer. I then placed the seal in the right spot, glued it down and reassembled.
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About Fifteen minutes of work and a cheap part, and now my dryer dries a l;oad of clothes in an hour instead of three.
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will not blow air
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Ada, OK
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I first unpluged the dryer. Then I
Removed two screws and removed bottom cover, Then removed the door assembly.Here I had to unplug the light and door switches. I then removed the four screws that holds the tub mount in place, Then I removed the eight screws that hold the blower cover in place, then removed the blower. replaced blow ... Read more er and reassembled in reverse. I started the dryer and it worked fine.
Removed two screws and removed bottom cover, Then removed the door assembly.Here I had to unplug the light and door switches. I then removed the four screws that holds the tub mount in place, Then I removed the eight screws that hold the blower cover in place, then removed the blower. replaced blow ... Read more er and reassembled in reverse. I started the dryer and it worked fine.
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Dryer sounded like it was going down manhiem road (pot holes).
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bradley from Crest Hill, IL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I removed the access panel on the lower front. Then I removed the front door panel (noting where the wires went; 1 for red, 2 for black, 3 for grey). Then I removed the 2 screws holding the top down and lifted it up. Then I reached underneath the drum and took the belt off the tensioner. Then I removed the front drum panel with the li
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nt filter, guides, and front felt seal. Then I took out the drum. Then I replaced the roller and post (with bracket). The old post was worn, so it was a good thing I got the new post (thanks to someone else's reccomendation). Then I put it all back together. It was surprizingly easy. I just wish these parts weren't so dad gum expensive. I paid $20 for one roller and post. I wish I could have also replaced the felt seals ($17 each), the other roller (another $8) and the sliders and felt pads ($20 per side). And a new belt. By then, you might as well buy a new dryer!
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The door switch had broken, and high limit switch wasn’t the problem at all I didn’t realize that
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from Saint Joe, IN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the dryer front and replaced the door switch.
Next I replaced the drum glide reassembled the dryer.
Next I replaced the drum glide reassembled the dryer.
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Squealing when running
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eric from Carlsbad, NM
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I had already taken the dryer apart prior to changing the felt seal. Had oiled the rollers, greased the bearings & vacuumed the whole inside of the dryer out. Had used a high temp lubricant on the seal & had stopped squeaking for about a month. I ordered 2 seals & when they arrived, I popped the top of the dryer off using the putty knife
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to pry the spring latches. I opened the top up & leaned it against a wall. I disconnected the wiring to the light & the switch in the door, making note of the wiring order. Then used a nut driver to take the 2 screws from the inside out, that holds the front cover in place. Then the same for the 4 screws holding the front bulkhead in place. Then lifted up & out from the unit. Then used the putty knife to scrap the adhesive & old seal off the bulkhead. Cleaned as much of the adhesive off, then applied some high temp silicone adhesive to the bulkhead, placed the new seal on, using some clamps to hold it in place. After making sure it had adhered to the seal & bulkhead. Did the reversal of the above mentioned steps. Moved the unit to laundry room, plugged it in then started it & voila no more squeaking dryer.
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Bad element
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from NEWARK, DE
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
googled make and model number of dryer! Found a trouble shooting comment like my problem! Dryer not getting hot! Watched video on locating and removing element and Hightemp sensor of my model. Then went in and inspected element ! I was able to see that element was bad-had a break in middle. Removed old one and ordered new one! This w
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as a Sunday night! Had back together after work on Wednesday evening! Total time approx 45 minutes! This includes time researching online and taking two sensors off old element and mounting on new element! Easy fix!
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noise in dryer
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JOHN from MODENA, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
took frount off ,then filter, pulled drum out, then blower plate & spun impeller off. went back together easy ,except belt . that gave me a little problem but finally got it thanks
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