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ALE6 Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ALE6
76 - 90 of 695

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Door would not stay shut
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eli from North Stonongton, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.
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Female End Of The Door Catch Broke
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tara from North Canton, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--
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The dryer door latch was broken.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Memphis, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.
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Loud squeking noise as drum turned
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Naugatuck, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I was somewhat intimidated by the fact that dryers are all repaired from the front. Pulling out the drum seemed scary at first, but that turned out to be very easy. After removing the front panel and lint shroud it is easy to reach the idler pulley and take the tension off the belt. If you're going to replace the rollers which is general ly the cause of the noise, get new retaining wrings and a decent pair of pliers for them. The rings can lose all their spring easily by strechting them too far to get them off. Replace the idler pulley and belt while you have the dryer apart. Vacuum all the lint out of there and you're good to go.
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The wheel bearing it doesn't work
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Diego from DORAVILLE, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Just take the old parts with my tools and fix it, i did take the pulley bearing with care and put the new one, and adjust the screw on the motor base, the belt just was a little difficult but I did it, it's easy.
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Dryer was operating but the timer would not advance so it kept drying with heat and would not shut off. Danger!!
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jon from St. Louis, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Installed new timer control unit . Dryer then operated normaly.

the timer moter bench tested ok. I wonder if there was really a problem with a relay that keeps the timer on during the cycle.
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Air Duct Damaged
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jEFFREY from Troy, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed 2 screws from dryer lower front panel and removed panel. Then removed upper front panel (no screws, just clips). Removed screws from existing duct assembly (2 for the duct assembly and 3 that held the top of the assembly to the dryer opening (and the reason for removing the upper front panel). Original part was a two piece asse mbly, new one is a single part, using less screws. New part is also deeper that original assembly. There was enough room for the extra size. Installed new part, replaced top 3 screws, top panel, and bottom panel. The replacement was very straight forward. Anyone that has done this before could do it in a few minutes but without prior knowledge or a manual, it took a full 1/2 hour to do the replacement.
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Squeaky belt
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Marietta, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removal of the entire 2 front panels
Removal of the heat exchanger into the drum
Removal and replacement of the belt
Reinstallation of the heat exchanger, and both front panels
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dryer would shut off during dry cycle. It was difficult to rotate drum manually
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dave from Bend, OR
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I looked at your on-line diagrams (exploded views) and basically used them as dis-assembly info.

I removed the bottom panel, followed by the front panel, the drum holders and drum.

Toughest part was the spring clips holding the motor in place,,,, but notes on your site from other folks doing the same motor replaceme nt solved that one,,,,,, I used a flat bladed screwdriver and pliers to manipulate the clips both off and on
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Dryer would run, but not dry the clothes
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Laura from West Palm Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
My husband removed the two screws that hold the element in place. He pulled out the old element, and replace it with the new one. Cleaning out all the lint and replacing the element took about 45 minutes.

I ordered the complete heating element, which included all three parts. My husband removed the defective one, and replac ed it with the new one, and the dryer works better than ever!
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Dryer would stop during cycle and then not restart. When I started the dryer, there was a short buzz sound as the motor started.
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bob from Denver, CO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
First I removed the bottom front cover attached with two screws, then the main front cover attached with two screws. I then removed two more screws holding the top in place, detached three wires and raised the top lid. I held the top lid out of the way with a cord tied off to a cabinet above. I then removed four screws holding the front s upport panel in place and set it to the side with wires still attahced. Then I slid the dryer belt off the drum and removed the drum. Next I removed the cover of the fan wheel by removing several screws. This allowed me to unscrew the fan wheel (reverse threaded) by anchoring the motor shaft with a wrench and using a large socket to turn the nut end of the fan wheel (then was no snap ring). I then popped off the two clamps holding the motor in place and removed the motor. The only tricky part about assembly was putting the belt back on the pulleys once the drum was installed. You can't see the pulleys once the drum is installed so it is done by feel.
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No Heat
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rogelio from Loxahatchee, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Ordered the new heater element on Saturday and got it on Tuesday. I have ordered from PartSelect before and the service has always been fast and accurate.

The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer and then removed the bottom front pannel by removing two hex screws, one on each side near the bottom of the dryer. Use a flashl ight if you need to see better. I then used my shopvac to vacuum all the lint that had gathered over the years, including the old heater element located on the left side towards the back bottom part of the dryer. Located the two hex screws and unscrewed them to remove the heater element. Pull out a bit from the bottom and then down. Pull towards you and remove the wiring from the old heater element making sure where the wiring and parts to be reused go so they could be transferred to the new heater element. Re-attach the heater element with two hex screws. Replace front cover and plug in the power cord and start drying clothes.
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Drum support rollers were shot, idler was changed as well, new belt installed, 2 new thrust washers and felt pads were installed as well.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from MORRIS, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Repair parts were exact OEM, went very smooth.
Longest part was cleaning the inside of dryer and cutting new vent pipe exit.
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High limit thermal fuse blew because of lint buildup in discharge vent pipe
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from PORTSMOUTH, OH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Opened things, saw lint buildup, cleaned inside of dryer, then cleaned entire vent discharge system, put new thermal fuse back, turned on dryer and heard metal to metal, opened dryer back up, saw missing glides (both gone). Ordered what I thought were 2 glides, 2 days later 1 showed, called and was told I didn't "update" when I changed or der info (parts supplier cautioned to replace 2, should only sell in pairs) so then had to wait again for 2nd glide to show up. Replaced them today and noticed dried clothes are now cooler when finished. Will note in future if clothes are warmer, clean ductwork.
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dryer not heating
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Richland, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
i am sorry i dont know all the technical term but here it goes, first I turned of the electrical breaker to the dryer, I unpluged the dryer and disconnected the dryer hose to the outside of home, I removed front dryer panel, remove front of drum panel, removed belt and found it to be worn, removed drum, removed the wiring connected to th e back panel that had heating element inside, removed the back panel, removed the heating element inside the back panel and then reassembled unit. I had question whether or not it would ever run again, but it is working fine. Thank you for your prompt attention with sending the parts. i dont know if there was a different way to solve this problem, but i felt if there was an expection plate on the side of the unit, it would be helpful.
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All Instructions for the ALE6
76 - 90 of 695