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ALE5 Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ALE5
46 - 60 of 618

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Broken plastic screen (on frame that holds wire lint screen)
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Karen from Homer Glen, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed bottom door panel, four screws. The new part was a slightly different (looks like improved) part, so only had to put two screws back in. Very simple. The only reason it took more than 15 minutes was because I cleaned exposed areas while the panel was off.
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old latch broke
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Germantown, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
I inserted the clip
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the glide bracket had been warn nearly in half
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rita from brewster, WA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
1. I removed the lower front panel.
2. Carful remove the front door making not of which wires whent were of the switch
3. Removed the front bulkhead.
4. Drilled out the rivits that held the bracket in place.
5 Use a pop rivit gun and 1/8 in pop rivit and washer.
6 Installed the felt pad and the drum guide.
7 Put the whole thing back together.

I love your web site the exploded diagrams make fixing my dryer quite easy. I do it. so for under $50 my dryer is almost like new.
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no heat
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janet from Portland, OR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
I first removed the two front screws on the front cover located on the lower half of the dryer using a flash light looking on the left side all the way to the back you will see two hex screws removing them will now let you wiggle the heating element back & fourth while pulling down it will come out in just a few seconds - then with your d igital camera take a picture of the still wired heating element as to a clear reference for wiring the new element - first Aline the new element in the same direction as the old element and transfer them one by one check camera for assurance that you have done it correctly and re-reinstall in the reverse order

also I would recommend taking off that black plastic blower chute and cleaning it assuringly the best performance of air flow
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Cylinder glide brackets broke, cylinder seal damage
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Troy from Reading, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
After removing the front of the dryer, I took out the front assembly where the seal and glide brackets attatch. I replaced the bad cylinder glide by drilling the old rivets out and re-riveting the new glide in place from the back side. I then replaced the felt pads and glides on the glide brackets and glued a new cylinder seal around the front assembly. I reccomend having 4 hands for placing the cylinder seal around the assembly with fresh glue.
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Lint Filter was cracked
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rex from Cary, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Not too difficult. Take out of box, insert into dryer slot.
Done
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Felt pad on cylinder glide bracket came off.
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Billy from Woodsboro, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, leaned dryer back and removed 2 screws at bottom front panel.
Then removed 2 screws at bottom of door assembly.
Pulled bottom door assembly forward and down.
Disconnected "can't go wrong" wiring connectors.
Then removed old cylinder glide rivets at bottom of cylinder using drill motor with 1/4" d rill.
I installed new felt pads on new cylinder glides. Then installed glides with rivet gun.
Reconnected wire harness.
Installed door assembly and lower panel assembly.
BACK IN BUSINESS! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!
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Dryer making a lot of noise and clothes were getting very hot
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MedPro from Crest Hill, IL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Remove the 2 screws at bottom of front panel, remove lower panel. Then remove the two screws at bottom of front door. Lift door forward so spring hooks can disengage from the top panel. remove door, disconnect the 5 wires to the door latch and light. remove the two screws at top of dryer to lift up top panel. Remove 4 screws at the fron t holding the drum. Disengage the belt from the tension pulley and remove drum. Replaced both roller wheels at the rear of the drum( one was broke). Then remove the screws (about 6 holding the plate in front of the blower wheel. Use a wrench to hold the nut at the back of the motor and a scocket wrench to remove blower wheel. (The Blower wheel was broken from the shaft and was spinning freely). Then do it all backwards to re assemble. i spent more time cleaning the lint from the inside than I took making the repair!
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Door safety switch would not close keeping dryer from running
9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Warsaw, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and da rkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.
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Won't tumble with clothes & making loud noises
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from North Hampton, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer would only tumble for ~15 min then stop. During this time it would be really loud. Turns out to be a bad Motor. To replace 1) Removed bottom kick panel by removing 2 screws. 2) Then removed upper front cover by 2 additional screws. 3) Disconnected thermostat (marking location of wires on paper). 4) Removed blower housing (3 screws )undid the rib belt from the drum by pushing the pulley wheel up so the belt could be loosened and removed from motor. 5)Removed the front cover of the dryer opening by removing 2 screws. 6) Lifted up and then puled it out to expose the drum. 7) Removed the drum w/belt from the dryer exposing the motor. 8) Removed 2 screws from the motor and disconnected the plug from it. Slid it all the way out. 9) Need to remove (3 screws) the metal faceplate from motor to access the blower wheel (plastic). 10) Unscrewed the plastic wheel and removed 2 screws to remove the motor from the frame. reversed the process for reassembly. Sounds tougher than it really was - only took 30-45 min. Suggestion - write down on paper location of any wires you disconnect - makes reassembly very easy. Also recommend vacuuming any lint in the dryer while it is completely accessible.
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door switch broke
9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • richard from pleasant valley, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .
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The dryer started making terrible noises.
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Caroline from Rockland, ME
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
First I went to Maytag.com thinking it was best to go to the manufacturer for parts. Their search engine did not even recognize my part number. I tried every way I could think of. Then I just entered the model number in google and it sent me to the Partselect.com website. Diagrams came up and I chose parts from the pictures. The parts arr ived in about 3 or 4 days and fit perfectly.
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Dryer squeaked while running
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Kellogg, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Replaced the recommended drum rollers, belt and tensioner, light bulb. Found repair manual online (bit of a hunt)made job easier still took 2.5 hrs. Then turned drum by hand no squeak. Turned it on and still squeaked. Isolated to motor. Replaced it (had to take dryer completely apart again but went quicker due to experience also had to disassemble the motor assy and rebuild. Took 1.5 hrs works like new now. The design of the dryer is not bad remove bottom front panel first, screws at very bottom of panel then two more screws are uncovered to remove front. It just lifts up and pulls out. then remove four bolts which hold front frame on (supports drum) all this has to be done to reach the replacement parts. drum wheels are held on by snap rings not the screws (real fun if you take them out) reverse to reassemble.
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Dryer making a loud squeaky noise.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from New Albany, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Easy repair and done all from the front. Turn off the power at the breaker. Make sure the power is off. Remove 2 screws holding on the lower panel. Then remove 2 screws holding on the door panel. (Pay notice to the order in which the 3 door wires will get re-connected. The 2 light bulb wires probably can go either way.) Then remove 4 screws to a large bracket that supports the front of the drum. (Set these parts aside as you take out the screws.) Then remove the 2 screws from the top panel. Reach in under the drum and release the tension off the belt. It's easy to release, but sorta mind boggling to put back on. Maybe practice that once while it's fresh in your mind. When the belt is off the motor pulley, then lift out the drum. Vaccuum out a lint blanket if you have one. You'll see the 2 drum support rollers and the belt tensioner roller. I didn't know which was squeaking so I replaced all 3. Same method, use ring pliers to take off the retainer ring, remove old, wipe off dust, install new rollers, replace ring. Note the washers are different so put them back on in the same order as removed. Make sure the gasket on the lint assembly gets tucked nicely into the blower housing when you reassemble. Easy repair. If you do pull the dryer away from the wall, replace your flexible exhaust vent with the fire resistant aluminum version.
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Lint Filter Air Dust Assembly broke inside the dryer.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Loren from Woodland Hills, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I believe the best procedure would be to start at the very bottom of the machine - there are two sheet metal screws in the bottom panel. Remove the bottom panel.

Now, there are two sheet metal screws at the bottom of the front door panel that need to be removed. Remove front panel by pulling down to dislodge from plastic pins aligning it to the top panel.

Now the air duct assembly is accessible. From outside machine remove two sheet metal screws holding lower air duct frame. From inside the dryer opening, remove three screws holding the upper frame. Remove old air duct assembly and vaccuum machine.

New air duct assembly is in one piece, so only three inside screws are needed to support it. Make certain the screws are seated well or clothes could get hung up on the screw heads. Reinstall front door panel and bottom panel.

Doing it this way should make the job around 20 to 30 minutes.
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All Instructions for the ALE5
46 - 60 of 618