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ALE4 Amana Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ALE4
121 - 135 of 710

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Dryer would not start
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • shaun from EVANSVILLE, WI
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
After taken apart to replace high limit thermostat fuse and limit thermostat took about 5 minutes. Also our dryer always ran very hot no matter what setting it was on. Replaced idler pulley wheel also because seemed not to rotate very well. Put all back together and worked perfect. Ran and does not overheat now.
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Excessive noise
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Ballwin, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1.Unplug unit
(gas model, did not shut off)
2. Remove bottom front panel-2bolts
3 Remove main front panel-2 bolts (no need to remove door)
4. Make note of wire colors on door switch and light, disconnect
5. Remove 3 screws that hold air duct assembly(that lint filter rests in) then set main front panel aside ... Read more />6. Remove lower air duct (to blower motor)-3 bolts
7. Lift and tilt-up top lid/panel of dryer and wedge wood or ? (this will give you easy access and better light)
8. Reach back behind motor to move idler pulley and remove belt from motor & idler pulley
9. Remove 4 bolts and lift up and out front bulkhead frame that holds drum in place
10. Slowly pull straight out & slightly up entire drum
11. Remove circlip/retaining ring, washer, roller, washer and shaft assembly.
12. Vacuum entire unit
13. Light lubricant on shaft when reinstall in reverse order.

Snap ring pliers and a mental note of how the belt is routed on idler will prevent unwanted profanity.
This is an inferior/substandard unit before Maytag bought them. Spend the money and replace both rollers with new shafts (about 50.00). I have spent over 140.00 in parts to keep this unit running (less than 8 years old). So do the math before you start pouring money into this model.
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glides were wore out and pully was gone.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard L from Eatonton, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
Replaced glides and assy idler pulley cleaned all parts fron dust and debree, vaciumed heating eliment to remove all excess lint and wool to make sure I did'nt have a fire in the lower unit.
Job was'nt all that hard just have to watch what you're doing.
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Squealing idler pulley
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dave from Brighton, CO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Propped the machine up in the front, removed the front panel, the door assembly, and the front drum support. Use a Sharpie to mark wire positions. This will help during re-assembly. To get the drum out, you first have to remove the belt from the motor pulley. Drum slides right out. You will need snap-ring pliers to remove the pulley from the idler arm. I also replaced the drive belt because it was cheap, and always a good idea to replace it when you are this far into the machine if it is a few years old. Re-assemble in the reverse order of disassembly. An easy fix for the average do-it-yourself person.
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Dryer not heating
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Henry from LA FOLLETTE, TN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Terminal Block was cracked and dryer was not receiving enough voltage, causing the heating element not to heat. Here were the steps I took to fix the problem:
1. Turn off breaker to dryer from 240v outlet
2. Unplug dryer from 240v wall outlet.
3. On outside, rear of dryer, remove cover plate and the clamp that the power cor d goes through with nut driver or phillips screwdriver and take picture or write down how the power cord wires go to the terminal block.
4. Use nut driver or phillips screwdriver to remove the power cord wires from terminal block and ground wire from dryer body.
5. On top front of dryer, use large slotted screwdriver or some other tool to push in on the two clips in order to lift the cover up on dryer.
6. Take picture or write down how wires are attached to terminal block.
7. Remove wires from terminal block with nut driver or phillips screwdriver.
8. Use nut driver to remove terminal block from washer and install the new terminal block.
9. Reinstall wires to new terminal block.
10. Close dryer cover.
11. Reinstall clamp onto power cord wires and reinstall wires to new terminal block and ground wire to washer body then put cover plate back on.
12. Plug in dryer then turn on breaker.
13. Start dryer to see if it heats now.
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Belt Was Broken
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Kealakekua,, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
Unable to find a repair manual or accurate diagram, I forged ahead and removed the top and front panels of the dryer. It took two tries to figure out how to thread the belt (nine of my ten thumbs kept getting in the way!), but after a coffee break, the job came together, and I've taken the clothesline down!
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Looked inside the dryer and the lint duct was melted thru and pieces were flying around loose inside the dryer.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Ormond Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Once I was able to take apart the door assembly, I was able to determine that I needed the lint duct assembly. The parts website was very helpful with diagrams and explanations so that I could order the part with confidence. Since laundry is so important in our house I paid for expedited shipping. The part arrived in Florida less than 24 hours after it was ordered and soon after it was installed and the dryer was working properly.
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Very loud intermittent squealing noise while dryer was running
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Buffalo Grove, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Unlike the other stories I read (and the video posted on the site), my unit had a lower maintenance panel on the front face which required quite a different disassembly. Once I took off the lower panel, there were screws at the bottom of the top panel. Once removed, the top front panel came out and exposed the necessary interior compone nts. In order to get the drum out, I took out the screws holding the front of the top on and wiggled the drum out. From there I removed the belt and offending idler lever, put in the new ones and hooked the spring back up. Reverse procedure to assemble and the problem is completely gone. I even found and removed an unexpected hair band from the front skid plate. Pretty doable if you're willing to spend the time.
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Air duct assembly broken.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Summerville, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I used a large flat head screwdriver to lift top up, then located 2 screws in the top right and left hand side to remove front. Remove the three Phillip Head Screws that holds the assy in place slide out. Mine had 2 metal pieces with wires. I simply unplugged and took metal pieces and installed in the new assy. Remove excess lint put fron t back on lowered lid and done! 15-20 minutes
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dryer would not heat very well
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • matt from New Hampton, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I took out 6 screws and replaced the heating element, changed wires and reinstalled
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broken lint screen
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marlo from DeKalb, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
took one out - put new one in
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No heat
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dan from Hawley, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the lower front cover. Unplugged two wires and removed two screws in element, slid element out, removed two contacts and attached them to th new element, slid element back in place, inserted two screws re-attached two wires.
Very easy!
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Dryer would not start
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ray from Lehigh Acres, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Remove bottom panel from dryer. disconnect wires off of Limit switch. Unscrew 2 screws, remove old switch. Reverse to install. Important, if limit goes bad you need to replace cycling thermostat or chances are the limit will go out again. (Limit on back wall of dryer). The cycling thermostat is right under the lint screen. Remove 3 wires . Remove 2 screws, remove switch. Reverse to install new cycling thermostat. Toatl cost of 2 parts used 16 dollars and change. Thanks
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heard the sound of loose change in the dryer
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Averill Park, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
removed the front panel and the drum panel cover.replaced the guides and the felt pads and re-assembled.
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My heater would not HEAT!
5 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michell from Inglewood, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Wrench set
I asked the Gas Co. if they can come out and relight the pilot to my dryer... (which is common for gas dryers) He tested the equipment and told me that the thermostat was the problem. Most places was looking for around $160 for parts and labor. Well, I saved around 130, as I just simply replaced the thermostat. DONE DEAL!
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All Instructions for the ALE4
121 - 135 of 710