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ALE1 Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ALE1
76 - 90 of 651

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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The dryer door latch was broken.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Memphis, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.
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Broken Catch
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from LARAMIE, WY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Watch the video. Very, very easy
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Door would not stay shut
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eli from North Stonongton, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.
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Female End Of The Door Catch Broke
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tara from North Canton, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--
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Door wasn't staying closed
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dale from Livingston, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale
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Load noise from dryer
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mike from Pacifica, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Had to figure out how to open the dryer - bottom screws in front and work up, removed the drum and found the fan blade was broken. Had some difficulty removing the fanblade from the motor shaft but after that the new one was easy to install. I did need help to place the belt and drum back into place. as one person has to hold the belts on the pulley while the other adjusts the belt while putting the drum back into place.
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dryer stoped working
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roman from Gaithersburg, MD
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
At first i thought i had to buy new dryer, because i did not know what to do.I said, i never done this kind of repair before, well i put everything apart and notice that the idler pulley was worn out, then i said this is something that i can fix it if i get the part. I made several calls and couldn't find it. so went in internet and foun d it with you.
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Squeaking motor, over heating, thermal switch kicking out.
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ernest from Ida, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unpluged dryer from outlet, disconnected vent, positioned dryer on side, removed screws from bottom panel, pulled pannel away from dryer body to gain access to motor. Disconnected drum belt from motor pulley, disconnected wire harness from motor. Removed motor mounting bracket assembly and placed entire assembly on floor. Removed clamps a nd blower assembly from old motor, installed new motor and reassembled. Very easy project, hardest part requires some trouble shooting knowledge to determine the exact cause of problem.
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High limit thermal fuse blew because of lint buildup in discharge vent pipe
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from PORTSMOUTH, OH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Opened things, saw lint buildup, cleaned inside of dryer, then cleaned entire vent discharge system, put new thermal fuse back, turned on dryer and heard metal to metal, opened dryer back up, saw missing glides (both gone). Ordered what I thought were 2 glides, 2 days later 1 showed, called and was told I didn't "update" when I changed or der info (parts supplier cautioned to replace 2, should only sell in pairs) so then had to wait again for 2nd glide to show up. Replaced them today and noticed dried clothes are now cooler when finished. Will note in future if clothes are warmer, clean ductwork.
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Progressively louder squeaky noise when drying
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George W from Austin, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I followed the instructions found on this site. The hardest part was figuring out how to release the clamps at the front of the dryer so I could remove the top.

The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the front.

The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.

The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.
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Dryer would not stay running
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from NEWMARKET, NH
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Using instructions from your website, I was able to remove access covers from my driver & find the pieces that needed to be replaced. It was a simple repair job & now my dryer is working properly again.
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Ugly squealing noise and getting louder.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Neal from BLACK DIAMOND, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The belt tensioner was the problem and the belt had very fine cracks in it so I ordered four parts: the belt tensioner, belt and the two drum rollers. I had to work to clean the fan and the LARGE dust bunnies. I'm writing this to encourage others to consider installing new duct work, mine was becoming a fire hazard. At a minimum clean all the duct work. Your dryer will work so much better. Thank you for your printable help!??
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Our dryer was making a loud sound similar to a NYC subway train
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Tinton Falls, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed all of the front outer bolts holding in the lower plate, front door assembly, drum outer frame and drum. While removing the outer sheel there are colored wire connections that activate the linterior light and door sensors in which I marked the interior sheel with a marker so I knew which wire went where. Before removing the drum I drew a sketch on how the belt is ran thru the pullys and around the drum, so I would have no problem reinstaLLING IT.The rooler bracket was easily removed with a socket wrench and the retaining wring was pried with a pliers. Reinstallation of the shaft, roller and ring were as simple as removal. I then cleaned the entire interior and lint basket for optimal performance. The most difficult part is pulling the belt back around the drum, but still not very difficult. Finally I reattached nall removed parts as they were removed and I now have a like new dryer for about $20.00 vs, buying anew one or repair fees costing Hundred$ OF DOLLERS.
Thanks Partsselect.com Again!
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clothes not completely drying
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Sheboygan Falls, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Remove the two screws on the lower front panel. It is easier if you remove the three screws for the venting.I couldn't beleive the amount of lint trapped in there a fire hazard.The heater core is on the lower left corner in the back of the dryer.Remove the two screws and pull the old heater core out.The wires are long enough to pull al l the way out.Attach wires from the old one one at a time so you don't mix one up. Then reinstall reversing the above procedure.
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Lint Duct Assemby Replacement
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Baltimore, MD
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
(Used joe From Beacon Falls Instructions)
UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST
1. There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer. Remove these bolts with a socket wrench and their brackets. Set aside.
2. Lift up rear of dryer top a few inches to locate two metal flanges on the front top of the dryer. Lower the back side. Now on the front of the dryer, insert the flat head of a large screwdriver (cover flat head with rag to prevent scratches) where the flanges are located and pry upward, one side at a time. It does not take much pressure until the top “pops” open. Repeat prying motion on other side of front dry to free the top.
3. The top of the dryer is now loose and can be slid backwards enough to see down the front of the dryer. Locate two screws (one on each side) inside the front panel a few inches down. Use the same socket size with wrench to remove these two screws.
4. Notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side. With care, these can remain attached. Alternately, take the time to write down the color and order and remove these now
5. Pull the front panel towards you slightly and lift up. The front panel will now come free and can be set aside. If you did not remove the wires, the front will need to be propped up close enough to the dryer so that the wires are not ripped out.
6. Remove the three Phillips Head screws located inside the dryer drum that attach the Lint Duct Assembly. Pull out the old assembly. Vacuum out if necessary.
7. Insert the new Lint Duct Assembly and secure with the three screws.
8. Reattach dryer front and top.
9. Done.
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All Instructions for the ALE1
76 - 90 of 651