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AKT30 Amana - Instructions

All Instructions for the AKT30
31 - 45 of 45

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Jenn-Air CCE3531B - Left Rear Dual Burner was Stuck On
  • Jeff from Kent, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Here is what I did with new switch (part#12002125) and it worked. Connect jumper to P1 and S1. Split the 2 red wires and put new spades on the ends, then put the red wire from left front switch on P2 and the other red wire from the right rear burner on 2. Blue goes to 4. Purple goes to 4A. Black goes to P1. Orange goes to S2.
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Inner element dead
  • John from Lancaster, PA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Pulled range away from wall and unplugged it. Pulled smoothtop out a bit to clear retaining clips. Swung top up and unplugged the cable going to top. Removed top hinge so top could be removed. Put top upside down on a table to work on. Removed wires from bad burner and then removed screws holding the burner in place. Replaced bad burner w ith new one and reversed the previous steps. Range worked like new. PartSelect service was great, received the part in one day.
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two of the burners went out
  • george from elk grove, CA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
the burners were located underneath the glass top, but i had no instructions on how to remove the glass top, so i spent an hour taking every screw off. finally i realized the glass top lifts off from the front then the repair became super easy. hard part was replacing all the screws, lol
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Water shorted out switch
  • Duncan from Bellingham, WA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turned off power, disconnected wires, cut tape on exhaust fan connection, removed cooktop from counter and removed glass top from assembly, removed screws on switch, switched wires from old switch and installed on new switch, reinstalled everything, restore power and checkout new switch positions. Everything worked.
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Both elements were full on and hard to shut off.
  • RANDY from LA MESA, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Turn the power off. Lifted the stovetop up and rotated it to stand up in the cabinet. Removed the bottom cover and the knob. Put tape markers on all wires for I.D. reference. Disconnected all wires. Identified knob and detent position of the old switch. You could be 180 deg. out. Unscrewed switch assy. from top and removed. Installed new switch assy. after verifying detent position. Using the helpful diagram provided by PartSelect, wires were attached to the new switch. Attach points on the new switch are in different locations than the old switch, at least on my stove. Some wires will need to be re-routed and stretched a bit to fit but it all works. Turned power back on and tested the elements. All fine. Drilled a hole in the bottom cover to attach a clamp to keep the power cable up and out of the way of pots and pans. The original installer neglected to do this. Installed the bottom cover and set the stovetop back in the proper location in the kitchen counter. Had myself a beer for a job well done! The original repair person said the switch would cost $173.00 and was special order. Then he called back and said the part was unavailable. I asked him if he had checked the Internet and he replied that if I wanted to do a search and find something he would be happy to come back and install it. Let's see, $173 plus, maybe an hour install @ $60? per hour versys $58 for the switch and an hour and a half of my time. I think he's still waiting for my call. Thank you PartSelect.
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Small burner burned out on cooktop.
  • Kevin from Hurricane, WV
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled cooktop up on Counter top and unscrewed the screws around around the cook top lifting the glass top off to get to bad burner.then disconnected wires from old burner lifting burner out and sitting new burner down in the cut outs. I have used parts select for my refrigerator,microwave and oven I can't say enough about how great there website is as well as there service.they have made a customer out of me for life and I have turned a lot of friends on to the site and they love it as we'll.
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Burner stopped heating
  • Anna from Copperas Cove, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My husband did the repair. It was so easy that I could have done it. He had to remove 3 screws and then hook up the element. Nothing to it!!
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Burner Would,Nt Heat Up.
  • david from cleveland, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.
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One of the burner wasn't light up.
  • Sam from Fairport, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repair was very easy. It took me less than ten minutes. There were only five screws including two to hold heat element that I have to unscrew and transferred the old clip the screw onto new heat element.
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The dual surface burner would come on and go off intermittently when the switch was turned to off.
  • Gary from Bend, OR
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Thanks to the highest rated user comment and following his instructions the switch exchange was easy. The supplied instructions were of little to no help and confusing. The hardest part was getting to the two side top Phillips screws because the granite counter top was in the way necessitating raising the stove till the screw heads were e xposed. Once raised the front cover was easily removed after undoing six screws. The cook top did not need to be removed. Either of the supplied wires would work and only one of the two was needed. The replacement switch performed far better than the original.
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Dual right front burner would not modulate temp
  • Jason from Huntingtown, MD
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
It is important to remove the two screws holding in the switch first and from the top with a small screwdriver, then remove the wires. Install the wires back on the switch first to assist in holding the relay close to the scew holes. Otherwise much more of the unit needs to be taken apart.
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bad control switch for stovetop burner
  • Thomas from Two Harbors, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Move stove away from wall to allow working on back of stove. Unplug stove. Remove metal cover from top rear of stove. Pull control knob off of control (front of stove) Remove 2 screws holding infinite control in place (front of stove) Replacement control not identical to original control, having more terminal lugs and different physical a rrangement. I used the terminal letters as a guide for placement of wires. The letters were not exactly the same, but close enough. Re-attach control to stove with 2 screws. Re-attach back metal panel to stove. Shaft on replacement control is smaller diameter and different shape from original, so I removed ribs from inside of control knob hole and then squirted a small amount of hot glue into the hole. Smearing a small amount of cooking oil onto shaft of replacent control I then slid the control knob onto the control shaft, holding it in place until the glue cooled and set. Plug stove back in, and return stove to its position next to the wall.
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All Instructions for the AKT30
31 - 45 of 45