AGR53 Range - Instructions

Unplugged 110 cord from outlet. Shut off gas supply. Removed rear cover (4) screws to access plug to ignitor. Removed boiler stove bottom drawer to access ignitor removed 2 machine screws 5/16 nut driver for ignitor replaced ignitor. I did no trouble shooting just took logical guess.

I removed the two screws that held the igntr in place. Then I pulled the igntr out and unplugged the wires. Replaced the igntr with the two screws and plugged the wires back together. I then turned the oven on to 400 degrees and it heated like a new one.

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

This repair was easy as could be to screw take off the diffuser four screws in the back two little screws on the igniter

pulled out the stove and removed bottom drip plates to access the old ignitor. Removed 2 screws after unplugging the two wire ignitor. fished the the two wires thru back of stove and plugged them in where old wires were. put the 2 screws back into the new ignitor and tested before replacing drip plates. been cooking in the oven ever s ... Read more ince, no problem.. Part was a perfect replacement.

I removed the oven door first, then pulled the unit away from the wall being careful of the floors. I unplugged the oven, and turned off the gas feed. I worked on the thermostat first. I followed the wiring from the inside of the unit to the back panel, and disconnected the cable. Two philips head screws held in place - swapped it out for ... Read more the new one - and there you go. Some insulation might also poke out when your snaking the wired through, so just tuck that back in as best you can.
Then I moved onto the igniter. I followed the wiring, and disconnected it at the back panel. The igniter was held in place with two hex bolts ( I can't remember the exact sizing since I just kept going down in sizes until it fit snugly on the bolt head). The metal plate they bolt into was warped, but with a little persuasion from some pliers it was easy to bend for better access to the bolts. Be careful if you are doing this since the bracket is attached to the burner tube and too much torque is always bad for hollow metal parts. Attach and wire up the new igniter, still being careful to replace any insulation that creeps out.
Plug the unit back in.
Turn on the gas feed.
Push it back into place.
Replace the oven door - and there you go.
I had also purchased an oven thermometer that hangs from the wire racking. I had the oven on at 350 for 30 minutes and the temperature never really swayed more than 15 degrees. It also heated up substantially faster.

After I found the web site I looked at the possible solutions for my problem. My igniter was glowing so I was not sure that would fix the problem but several places indicated the igniter would fix the problem and after I replaced it the oven work great.

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

I didn't do it, but I suggest putting down newspaper to keep from having to clean up all the charred remains that will inevitably fall from the parts you have to remove. First, unplug the thing so you don't shock yourself. I removed all the racks for easy access to the drip pan, which had to be removed by unscrewing two screws. Then th ... Read more ere was a cover over the flame area that also required two screws being removed. The coil had two screws connecting it, but first I had to pull out the drawer at the bottom, crawl under the unit and unplug the coil. I removed the two screws from the old coil and replaced it with the new one, but first I had to get back under and plug in the new coil. I was unprepared for the virtual small animals that were under the stove, so I took some time to clean out that mess. I tested the thing to make sure it would work, and it did. I put all the pieces back in reverse order and had some really good baked chicken for dinner. I also recommend using gloves, as all the soot is hell on your nice manicure.

I basically followed the video. The hardest part of the repair was trying to squeeze behind the oven to remove the back plate. Also the original screws holding the igniter took a small Allen wrench that I didn't have so I used an adjustable wrench. One screw was a little difficult but eventually got it tightened. Otherwise this was an eas ... Read more y repair like other reviewers have said.

Igniter is in the back bottom of the oven. I had to take off the top of the broiler compartment which has 3 screws. Unplugged the igniter which has two small screws and used a magnetic nut driver. installed the new one. It took 30-45 minutes.

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back.
Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did ... Read more ) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.

Replace two igniters that were not working. Did not fix the problem. Swapped wire positions from Spark Module and noted that the problem followed the igniter positions. Replaced Spark Module. Problem solved. Procedure required disconnecting a/c power, removing four screws, removing igniter wires from old module and reconnecting them t ... Read more o new module. Reinstalled new Spark Module in range. Reconnected a/c power. Test successful. Total time: 20 minutes.