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AGQB Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the AGQB
61 - 75 of 403

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Motor locked
13 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patrick from Littleton, CO
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I determined the problem was the fan wheel and housing. I located the part on partsselect.com, Ordered it and installed the afternoon I got it in the mail. Perfect fit.

I have used partsselect before, always had great luck, great prices, always have the exact part.
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Screeching noise under load
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from WESTLAKE, OH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I basically followed the video instructions on your website. Pretty simple but ran into an issue pre-threading the 3 self taping screws into the spindle bearing. The screws provided were blunt on the end and did not tap easily at all. I used the existing screws that were much more "sharp" and worked much better. Also, the new screws were Philips drive and due to the amount of torque trying to self tap nearly stripped them out. The old sharper screws were square drive which had a better bite. So basically, I used the old screws to self tap and then used the new screws for the final installation.
It took a long time to clean all the lint out from the inside of the dryer. The motor was completely embedded with lint and animal hair. You may want to suggest that a good cleaning may be needed so bring a shop vac...and also something to carefully pick the lint balls out from around the motor armature and bearing area. Overall the video instructions were really a big help!
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clothes not drying in one cycle
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aaron from Kerhonkson, NY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
remove top cover, remove front of dryer, unscrew two #2 screws from gas valve coil hol down bracket. replace coils. reassemble dryer.. works great.. had already replaced the thermostate and flame sensor.. didn't change anything.. the coil set did the trick..
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female part of door clasp broke
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tammy from St. Peters, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!
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Door seal/gasket coming off of dryer door. Could not make it stay as designed.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sandra from DULUTH, MN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This was the easiest repair ever done. Pulled out old seal/gasket and popped in new one. Took about 2 minutes. Be sure to mark where ends of new door seal (gasket) starts and ends when removing the old one.
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fan cage came undone from motor
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christopher from DENVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The new motor from parts select was not correct. The new motor is a bolt on. The original motor was a press on. Had to return at a cost of 42.00 dollars. Had to buy a new dryer.
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door catch wasn't working and screws in door were loose.
12 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • NICOLE from WEST JORDAN, UT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws
Other Parts Used:
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My lent screen broke on my dryer
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Garland, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
I remove the old lint filter and just put the new one in.
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Dryer wasn't heating
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Huntingdon, PA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Determined that the coil on the gas valve wasn't pulling in to ignite. Using an ohmmeter, I determined the coil was open. The coil was removed by pulling off the wire connecter and removing the two phillips screws holding the bracket over the two coils. The coil then slides out. I slid the new coil into place, replaced the bracket and two screws and reconnected the wire connector. It worked immediately. The actual repair only took 15 minutes. The bulk of the time was spent tracking down which part had failed.
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Squeaking noises (very high pitch)
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from Liberty, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replace rear bearing, found Exhust tube seal broken. Went ahead and replaced Drum belt & Idler arm assembly. Works like New !
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Not enough heat
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Bergenfield, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Checked PartSelect online for people with a. similar problem. Found most common problem was the coils.
I opened the top, removed the two screws holding the front panel, unclipped the wiring harness from the machine to the door and removed/cut the plastic wire tie and front came off easily. I put the front piece to the side after changing the light bulb. I cleaned out a large amount of lint and found the coils on the left hand side without trouble. Carefully disconnected the wiring clips, unscrewed the holding screw and removed the old coils. Installed the new colis, 1 has three prongs and the other has 2 so you ca'nt mix them up. Replaced the hold screw, re-connected the witing harness, installed a new wire tie, and re-stalled the two holding screws. Closed the cover and turned it on.
At first it did not heat up which was dissappointing; but then I left it alone and 15 minutes later it worked like new! And heated up just fine ever since.

Total cost about $35.00 with shipping. I took a chance that I would not need the sensor or the ignitor based on the comments of others and I just bought the coils. If I had to do it over I would have bought all three and saved on the shipping.
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E68 Error code - bad control board
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tony from CRYSTAL LAKE, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug dryer. Remove top lid (2 screws in rear)
Remove plastic front panel (4 screws) from behind. Carefully unsnap control board housing (no longer included w part) in order to disassemble and access control board. Remove molex connectors and note locations. Do not remove secondary smaller control board grom housing. Install new con trol board and reverse all steps.
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E68/E4A Dryer cycle stopping after just 20 seconds
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from BOYNTON BEACH, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
To replace the faulty control board, I simply followed the step-by-step video that was already posted at Part Select. Dryer seems new again!
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Dryer display was showing E68 error code, and responding erratically to attempts to reset.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from FLORENCE, OR
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, I had to decide if it was reasonable to attempt the repair. Was it worth spending $160 to see if that would fix it, or would I just find out I'd have to start fresh and buy a new dryer, in which case the cost of the (failed) repair would add to the total cost. I was sure enough a new Control was the answer, the decision was to go ahead.

I was concerned about getting the right part, but between your search feature that assured me my selection "will fit your unit", and the option to return the part if it wasn't right, I felt confident enough to order it. Also I was concerned about having good instructions to follow, but there was a YouTube video that showed all the details clearly. The included written instructions gave the general sequence to follow, but weren't for my specific model.

The actual repair was easy. Because the washer and dryer were stacked, it was harder to get to the back screws than in the YouTube video. I stood on a stepladder, and used an awl (with a mirror) to line up the holes when re-securing the top lid because I couldn't see them directly. I compared the new Control with the old by looking through the anti-static bag. If it looked wrong I wanted to be able to return it, and it had to be unopened to do so. Undoing the connectors, unscrewing the frame pieces holding the board, swapping out the boards, and putting it all back together went fine with the help of the video. I would recommend marking the old board to avoid installing it again by mistake. No, I didn't do that, but the old board was hardly dirty or worn and didn't look much different than the new one. Also, I didn't drop any of the screws, but if you do and they go down behind the unit or into it, one of those magnetic telescoping hardware retrievers might be useful.

That fixed it! 160 bucks instead of whatever a new dryer costs these days is a good tradeoff, and a whole lot less aggravation. It's been working fine ever since.
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Black lines and small tears
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robin from Sewaren, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Previous comments on line were so helpful.

My husband and son took the dryer apart by removing the top in order to get to the drum. Part of silver rim that the Drum Glide is attached to was broken,it had been cut somehow. They had to soder it back in place so they could attach the Drum Glide and so far it's working.
... Read more />Felt- I just ordered one with the adhesive and removed the damaged section used a wire brush, applied the adhesive ( which was more than enough) waited a few minutes for the adhesive to set, applied the felt, attached binder clips to hold it in place while working on the Drum Glide. Really easy.
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All Instructions for the AGQB
61 - 75 of 403