AGM6 Dryer - Instructions
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dryer stoped working
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roman from Gaithersburg, MD
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
At first i thought i had to buy new dryer, because i did not know what to do.I said, i never done this kind of repair before, well i put everything apart and notice that the idler pulley was worn out, then i said this is something that i can fix it if i get the part. I made several calls and couldn't find it. so went in internet and foun
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d it with you.
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The dryer wouldn't dry cloths.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tim from Sisseton, SD
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Simple,I unplugged the dryer and took off the panel located below the dryer door. To do that unscrewed 2 small screws on the underside of the panel. Once that was off I used a flashlight to locate the heating element which was in the rear of my Amana. Using a socket attached to a screw driver I turned 4 screws out of the element and it wa
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s free. I brought the element closer and compared it with the new element and made note of the wire pattern. I plugged in the new wires I received in the box into the new unit and then one by one unhooked the wire leads coming out of the dryer. I reversed the above there it was...maybe 30 minutes!
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High limit thermal fuse blew because of lint buildup in discharge vent pipe
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from PORTSMOUTH, OH
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Opened things, saw lint buildup, cleaned inside of dryer, then cleaned entire vent discharge system, put new thermal fuse back, turned on dryer and heard metal to metal, opened dryer back up, saw missing glides (both gone). Ordered what I thought were 2 glides, 2 days later 1 showed, called and was told I didn't "update" when I changed or
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der info (parts supplier cautioned to replace 2, should only sell in pairs) so then had to wait again for 2nd glide to show up. Replaced them today and noticed dried clothes are now cooler when finished. Will note in future if clothes are warmer, clean ductwork.
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Squeaking motor, over heating, thermal switch kicking out.
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ernest from Ida, MI
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unpluged dryer from outlet, disconnected vent, positioned dryer on side, removed screws from bottom panel, pulled pannel away from dryer body to gain access to motor. Disconnected drum belt from motor pulley, disconnected wire harness from motor. Removed motor mounting bracket assembly and placed entire assembly on floor. Removed clamps a
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nd blower assembly from old motor, installed new motor and reassembled. Very easy project, hardest part requires some trouble shooting knowledge to determine the exact cause of problem.
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Progressively louder squeaky noise when drying
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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George W from Austin, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I followed the instructions found on this site. The hardest part was figuring out how to release the clamps at the front of the dryer so I could remove the top.
The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the ... Read more front.
The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.
The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.
The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the ... Read more front.
The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.
The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.
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dryer not heating
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Richland, MO
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
i am sorry i dont know all the technical term but here it goes, first I turned of the electrical breaker to the dryer, I unpluged the dryer and disconnected the dryer hose to the outside of home, I removed front dryer panel, remove front of drum panel, removed belt and found it to be worn, removed drum, removed the wiring connected to th
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e back panel that had heating element inside, removed the back panel, removed the heating element inside the back panel and then reassembled unit. I had question whether or not it would ever run again, but it is working fine. Thank you for your prompt attention with sending the parts. i dont know if there was a different way to solve this problem, but i felt if there was an expection plate on the side of the unit, it would be helpful.
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Idler arm was broken
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Hoffman Estates, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Took dryer apart, and found that the idler arm pulley was in pieces. Ordered the replacement from Partselect.com. Received part very promptly. Decided to also order a new belt, and that arrived in a very timely manner also. Put the parts in, and assembled the dryer. This was for my 90 year old grandmother, and she is ever so pleased
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that it is up and running again. Completed the repairs for about $50, and saved big money by doing it myself versus a service call, that would have boiled down to replacing the unit for the price it would have cost to fix. Will use partselect in the future for all my appliance repairs, as they offer a great selection of parts for all different appliances. Very pleased with satisfied with quality, and service from Partselect.com
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Gas Dryer Runs With Heat for Less Than 5 minutes, Timer Won't Advance in Autodry
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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julia from WOODRIDGE, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
My gas dryer would run with heat for 5 minutes in all settings, but kick off and not heat again. Timer would not advance in autodry. Thought it was the cycling thermostat, so replaced that, but did not solve the issue. Ordered the coils, and cleaned out heavily clogged lint from bottom of lint trap, especially right above the fan motor at
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the bottom of the trap. Received the coils, opened the top and front, took out drum, and replaced the coils. The replacement took less than 2 minutes. Be careful putting the drum back on to make sure the felt is not caught inside the drum. You can give it a spin to make sure. Wear gloves, as I cut myself up pretty good on the edges of the dryer body. The inside of my dryer looks like a crime scene! Anyway, I put it back together, and it runs great. Solved the timer advance issue in autodry, and the heat kicks on and off when it is supposed to. Good luck! Thanks Part Select!
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Squealing noise until the dryer warms up
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mario from MANHATTAN BCH, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replaced the two drum rollers and the tensioning arm roller. NOTES: 1. There are two drum rollers, the diagram seems to show only one. Recommend replacing both drum rollers and the support bracket shaft assemblies since the shafts might be scored. 2. The tensioning arm roller was actually much worse and frozen, so once you are in it
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is best to replace ALL three rollers. 3. I also replaced the belt since it was worse for wear from the frozen rollers. 4. The PartSelect video for the procedure is for the Whirlpool branded version of this dryer. The internal parts and construction are identical, however, the initial steps for opening up the dryer are different. On the Amana the top also tilts up, but is held down by two bolts, and not just the spring clips. Steps are: a) Remove bottom kick plate which is held in by two bolts on the lower front edge. b) remove the retention bolts that are now exposed on the front panel and remove the front panel by pulling it down from the top spring clips. c) Unbolt and remove the front drum retention panel. d) The two bolts that hold down the top can now be removed and the top panel tilted up so the drum can be lifted out after the belt is loosened. The whole process is very quick and easy. Only tricky part is fumbling around behind the motor to move the tensioning roller and arm to remove and re-install the belt. Also, I had cheap spring clip pliers so I was fumbling with the spring clips that hold the rollers on their shafts.
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Squeaky Maytag Dryer
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from Boyertown, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I went to RepairClinic.com & FixYa.com for some great advice. I searched the internet for the parts. PartSelect.com was the most inexpensive. Delivery was good. Using the repairman's manual I found on the internet I followed the steps to remove each panel, in order. The wiring was the most bothersome, but okay to resolve; write it down a
... Read more
nd pull it off! I don't think the rollers, in the back, were bad. The tension idler was extremely worn. I tightened the tension idler bracket at the base. I did need to use an O-Ring Spreader to get all the rollers off and on. Although there were more panels to remove than older models, it was easier! Wrap the belt around the drum before reinstalling. The belt will loop around the drive & tensioner relatively easy. Replace the rubber seal around the drum & replace all the panels. Things are quieter now than I can remember in a long time.
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Won't Tumble
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Stephen from LEANDER, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Removed lower front panel.
Removed door assembly* making note of the wire positions on the door switch
* When removing the door assembly DO NOT LET IT DROP DOWN! Doing so will destroy the door switch. Swing the door assembly upward from the bottom toward you as high as it will go then pull it free.
Removed the d ... Read more rum and belt assembly.
Removed the idler pulley and idler pully spring.
Vacuumed up the interior dryer floor and blew out the motor w/ comp air. Also cleaned the ribbed motor pulley with a nylon brush and brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.
Removed the drum tires and cleaned their shafts and internal bearing sleeves with brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.
Reinstalled the drum tires after lubricating their shafts with a very light coat of general purpose grease.
Replaced the idler pulley and idler pulley spring after cleaning and lubing shaft and pulley bearing as done on the drum tires.
Reinstalled the drum with the new belt (ribbed side down) roughly in place.
Reinstalled the front door assembly after reconnecting it's wiring making sure to insert it's top locking tabs with the bottom of the door held up high then swung down into place
Tensioned the belt by positioning the flat side of the belt that comes down the right side of the drum over the idler pulley flat side down and then the ribbed side of the belt over the motor shaft. You will have to move the idler pulley arm to apply full tension against the spring in order to have the slack to get it around the motor shaft.
Reinstalled the lower front panel.
Checked dryer operation OK.
This repair was rated a bit difficult because I didn't know the trick for removing/installing the door assembly and destroyed the switch. Furthermore, putting the belt back on is a somewhat difficult challenge because you have to do it mostly by feel
Removed door assembly* making note of the wire positions on the door switch
* When removing the door assembly DO NOT LET IT DROP DOWN! Doing so will destroy the door switch. Swing the door assembly upward from the bottom toward you as high as it will go then pull it free.
Removed the d ... Read more rum and belt assembly.
Removed the idler pulley and idler pully spring.
Vacuumed up the interior dryer floor and blew out the motor w/ comp air. Also cleaned the ribbed motor pulley with a nylon brush and brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.
Removed the drum tires and cleaned their shafts and internal bearing sleeves with brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.
Reinstalled the drum tires after lubricating their shafts with a very light coat of general purpose grease.
Replaced the idler pulley and idler pulley spring after cleaning and lubing shaft and pulley bearing as done on the drum tires.
Reinstalled the drum with the new belt (ribbed side down) roughly in place.
Reinstalled the front door assembly after reconnecting it's wiring making sure to insert it's top locking tabs with the bottom of the door held up high then swung down into place
Tensioned the belt by positioning the flat side of the belt that comes down the right side of the drum over the idler pulley flat side down and then the ribbed side of the belt over the motor shaft. You will have to move the idler pulley arm to apply full tension against the spring in order to have the slack to get it around the motor shaft.
Reinstalled the lower front panel.
Checked dryer operation OK.
This repair was rated a bit difficult because I didn't know the trick for removing/installing the door assembly and destroyed the switch. Furthermore, putting the belt back on is a somewhat difficult challenge because you have to do it mostly by feel
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Broken Rib Belt & Door Switch
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from GREENWICH, CT
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
watched video for Each Part
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Loud chirpping noise
10 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Winston, GA
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplug the dryer. Remove bottom panel by removing the two retaining nuts. Unplug the motor cable connections. Remove the blower unit. Remove the two screws holding the motor down. Release the belt by slipping it off the tension pulley. Slide the motor out carefully.
I had to replace the idler pulley shaft. The pulley h ... Read more ad scored the shaft and was digging into it causing the excessive noise. Reinstall the new shaft and pulley. You will need to remove and re-attach the retaining ring.
I took the opportunity to then blow out the motor unit. It was filled with lint. I then decided to replace the original belt.
You need to unscrew the rear retaining clips and use a putty knife or (I ended up using a small tire tool) to lift and separate the top. I then slide the belt up to the front of the drum. I unscrewed each bolt from the drum and removed the belt at each corner. By doing this it kept the drum aligned with the unit. Then just reverse the process to install the new belt.
Re-install the parts in order of removal. Done. Total repair took about 45 minutes. Would have been quicker except I forgot to re-attach the power clip to the motor and had to remove the unit again.
Noise is gone, dryer runs like a champ, hopefully for another ten years.
I had to replace the idler pulley shaft. The pulley h ... Read more ad scored the shaft and was digging into it causing the excessive noise. Reinstall the new shaft and pulley. You will need to remove and re-attach the retaining ring.
I took the opportunity to then blow out the motor unit. It was filled with lint. I then decided to replace the original belt.
You need to unscrew the rear retaining clips and use a putty knife or (I ended up using a small tire tool) to lift and separate the top. I then slide the belt up to the front of the drum. I unscrewed each bolt from the drum and removed the belt at each corner. By doing this it kept the drum aligned with the unit. Then just reverse the process to install the new belt.
Re-install the parts in order of removal. Done. Total repair took about 45 minutes. Would have been quicker except I forgot to re-attach the power clip to the motor and had to remove the unit again.
Noise is gone, dryer runs like a champ, hopefully for another ten years.
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Dryer drum would not turn under load
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from ROSEVILLE, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I watched the repair video and followed the instruction given to replace the belt. The instructions were easy to follow and to the point. The one thing that was not covered was to vacuum the interior prior to closing the dryer up.
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Heat up then gas flame shuts down after 5 or so minutes igniter glows again trying to reignite but no gas supply coming out of the tube.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jodel from SAN DIEGO, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I ordered the top 5 items that may cause this problem based on the troubleshooting guide presented by the technicians I found in youtube. I replaced the coils and that fixed the problem. The coils are the first to go out according to techs, but I have the other parts just in case I may need them later on. My Maytag dryer which is over 19
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years old is alive and working again. The coils are accessible from the bottom access panel secured by 2 nut screws, unplug the dryer first, then the coils are secured by a bracket with 2 small philips head screw, I used a stubby philips screw driver to remove the bracket, undo the 2 electrical connectors on the coils one with 2 prongs and the other with 3 prongs. Put the new coils attached the electrical connectors and secured them with the bracket. Checked for any loose wiring ensuring connectors are secured in place, then test run the dryer with the panel off so you can see the if the flame stays on, if you run the dryer without wet clothes the flame may stop after 15 or so minutes. It is better to test run the dryer with wet clothes just like when your drying fresh washed and wringed clothes. It was really easy, good luck!
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