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AGD4 Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the AGD4
61 - 75 of 2651

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The dryer was leaving rust marks on our clothes.
37 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lauren from Mckinney, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
After my husband disassembled the cabinet and removed the drum, we used a putty knife to remove the old seal and carefully glued the new one in place. (A 2 man job to do it without leaking glue everywhere.) We then replaced the belt, following the picture sent by PartSelect and put everything back. (We put all small pieces in labeled enve lopes so that putting it back together was easy.) Another helpful hint - take a few digital pictures beforehand in the event that you need to see it to put it back together!
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Dryer stopped tumbling
34 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clifford from Mastic, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Pryed the top off the dryer, unplugged the door switch, took the screws out of the front panel, then lifted the drum out. Placed the new belt around the drum and while my wife held it in place and steadied it, I reached underneath and looped the belt through (as per instructions), reassembled and back in business! Reaching under the drum was not that easy....VERY tight space to work in and there was no way I could get both hands through, I almost gave up, but one last try and a couple of good grunts, and it popped into place. Getting the wires back on the door switch was a bit of an ordeal too. Took about 30 mins. but still worth it. I'm sure I saved at least a $100 repair.
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Dryer sounded like it had rocks in it when running
33 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Kirkwood, MO
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Following the instructions that came with the parts, I removed the top off of the dryer, which was very easy, two more 5/16" screws and I had the drum out. I confess, this was my second time at this repair. 1st time I neglected to replace the rear drum seal which I strongly recommend you do while you have it open. I only replaced the 2 w heels last time and it failed very soon afterwards.
Lesson Learned: Always replace the rear drum seal when you replace the support wheels!!!
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Drum stopped turning, fan continued to blow
31 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Davie, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, e tc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.
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Dryer would start and heat, but after 1st cycle the burner would not fire and a buzzing sound was coming from the gas valve solenoid area. Igniter and other functions worked fine.
32 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Bedford, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.
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dryer would not continuously heat, and took several cycles to dry clothes. The flame would ignite and heat the dryer at first, but then would ignite and go out quickly for the rest of the cycle. I tried the thermostats first with no luck.
31 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ryan from Livonia, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wir es connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.
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Dryer belt snapped
33 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • J. from Oakdale, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.
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Dryer motor runs,drum turns but no heat.
30 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Arron from El Reno, OK
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the back of the dryer. Used a multimeter set to read Ohms to check each Thermal cut-off switch. Each one read with continuity and some resistance. The one that was bad read open. So i replaced this one and the other one that came in the kit since i already paid for both.Then i replaced the back ran the dryer and it worked great.
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Dryer door catch broke
35 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bill from Houston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The old catch on my dryer door was gone and I was keeping the door closed using tape. I ordered the part and it arrived with no hassles in about 5 days. The repair was too easy. I just popped the new catch in place. It took all of about 30 seconds to complete using no tools. I wish all home repairs were this easy.
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Top door catch assembly had broken
29 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • tony from prineville, OR
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was so easy, that my wife did it the day we got the part before I got home from work. She wedged it out with a flat head screw driver and then pushed the new door catch assembly in with her thumb. Pretty simple, thanks for having parts like this available to the public!
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push to start switch was not working
33 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Grace from New Smyrna Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the old one and installed the new one! What impressed me the most was the amount of time for delivery, one day! Actually it came before 24 hrs!!! Very impressive! I would highly recommend this company!!!
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My dryer only heats up at the beginning of cycle so my clothes will not dry.
31 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Monique from Mission Viejo, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.
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cocverting natural gas to propane gas
43 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Billy from Maryville, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
removed burner installed propane orfice and kit as per instruction sheet.
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old lint screen -torn at wire mesh
27 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Morgan City, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Local stores did not have any in supply. Went to Partselect and located lint screen, ordered, received in 3 days. replaced screen, Wife now happy again...
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converting to LP gas
30 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Tenino, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I removed the front panel which allowed access to the burner assembly. Then I removed the gas connector and elbow from the back of the dryer. Then I removed 2 screws that hold burner assembly in place and 2 screws that hold an angle brace for the burner assembly. Had to loosen the screw that clamps around the gas pipe holding it in place clear in the back inside dryer housing. Unplugged all wiring connectors, then I removed the burner assembly and removed the 2 screws holding the burner tube to the valve. Remove the orifice and replaced with the proper size for LP gas. Then removed the blocking pin and replaced with one for LP gas. Then reassembled in reverse order. Actually pretty easy.
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All Instructions for the AGD4
61 - 75 of 2651