AFI2538 Refrigerator - Instructions

noticed the fridge and frezzer were not cold one day.i got on google and typed in the problem and found out the the relay goes bad rather often. was an easy fix. found the parts here on partselect and recieved in with in 2 days of ordering. pulled the old part out put new part in and plugged fridge in and was back up and running with in m ... Read more inutes..thank you partselect....

Removed the crisper drawers (pull out, then up & out), remove the glass shelf above the "pantry", remove the pantry door (easy because hinge stud was broken), then remove the pantry drawer. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove the broken LH End Cap...it pulls up and out. With the phillips screwdriver, remove/replace the steel rail for the drawer ... Read more action to the new part. Replace in reverse order (after your neat freak SO cleans everything!).

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

1st time ever attempting do-it-yourself repair, amazed at how easy it was even though there are no directions with the parts. I just examined the old parts to see how they fit together and that was easy, too!

Had the problem about 3 years ago the fridge was old and I decided to open it up(remove spill tray, detach 2 screws, remove display panel by popping bottom corners and lifting, disconnect 3 wire plug connections, remove 2 screws holding chute assembly) and take a look I found the problem was with the lever running over the switch and that ... Read more it was worn down not making enough contact to the switch assembly and wrapped some teflon tape around the leverI got 3 years more out of it... this time it was just simply age and needed a new assembly. Again I removed the display panel undid all 3 wire connections along with the water hose. Plugged everything into the new assembly reattached the electronics wires(3) screwed everything back where it was... Done! about 15-20 minutes at most.

As shown on the YouTube link sent with email receipt.
Removed back panel. Removed the clip securing the parts with long nose pliers. Unplugged the old, replugged the new. Replaced the clip to secure.

Unfortunately, the capacitor and relay did not fix the loud clicking issue.

Pop loose the plastic grate at the bottom.

Locate and remove the wheel leveling screw from the front bottom corner.

Remove cotter pin from the pin that mounts the wheel assembly to the refrigerator. Tap out the mounting pin.

Lift out the wheel assembly.

Remove the Roller pin from the wheel asse ... Read more mbly. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. A hack saw will also probably work.

Install the new roller pin and wheel into the wheel assembly. Use a hammer or vice to peen over the end of the roller pin.

Reinstall and adjust wheel assembly.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

Broken lid popped out, new lid popped in. No tools required. 30 seconds to replace. Great price, part shipped within an hour of placing my order and arrived the next day, although I only paid for standard shipping. Excellent service - will definitely order again if the opportunity arises!

Did research on the internet, and learned that two capacitors on the main circuit board located on the back of the frig had gone bad. Tried to replace the two capacitors on the old board, but no success. So, I ordered the whole board and plugged it in. Only problem is new board is not programmed to frig. So, had to program frig. by fo ... Read more llowing directions found on the internet. I saved at least $200. Thanks.

Removed the top door hinge cover.
Remover the four 12mm hex screws.
Lifted empty door off bottem hinge support.
Removed old door closure.
Put some silicon lub on the new closure and installed.
Reversed the removal steps.

But this did not fix the problem. Will have to remove the door and inspect the insi ... Read more de of the door's lower hinge assembly.

Easy repair. Unwrapped the new cover; pulled the old one off by releasing tabs. Inserted new piece.
Took less than 15 minutes. Looks like new. The replacement part arrived quickly from Part Select.

The repair was quite easy. I had already removed the panel cover on the rear and removed the plastic cover several days before that. I had also pulled the wire harness that went to the upper left connector that has allowed the refrigerator to operate without the flashing lights while the part was enroute. I unplugged the refrigerator, ... Read more disconnected the remaining connectors, and popped the old electronic control board out. I had to be very careful here as the plastic snaps that held it in were very hard to spread apart and I did not want to break one. Put in the new board, reconnected all of the wiring harnesses (each has a different pattern so you cannot mix them up). I plugged the refrigerator in and using the code from the label on the upper right hand side of the refrigerator and the instructions that came with the new board, I programmed the correct code in and everything was operational. Put the covers back on and went back to work. I did all of this in a 15 minute break between teleconference calls.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed pa ... Read more nel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.