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AES1 - Instructions

All Instructions for the AES1
121 - 135 of 468

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Oven would not heat
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • francis from mount holley, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.
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Oven Temperature was 50 degrees low
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eugene from Clinton, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
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Burner Failed
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • PETER from ROSEVILLE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Unplugged old burner,plugged in new one
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Frayed and exposed receptical wires in cartridge
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard C from San Jose, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.

* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.

* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridg e base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.

* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.

* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.

* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.

* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.

* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.
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Burned out lower oven element replacement
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lynn from MENOMONIE, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
SHUT OFF POWER AT BREAKER BOX! Remove oven door, use nut driver to remove two screws holding old element to back of oven. Pull forward to get wires into oven, remove wire clips from old part and re-attach to new element using pliers. Re-attach to back of oven, replace door. Turn on power and heat oven to burn off coating on new elemen t. Not at all difficult, except for wire clips are at angle to wire, making re-attachment a bit difficult to do. DO NOT LOSE WIRES INTO BACK AS THEY WOULD BE VERY DIFFICULT TO RESCUE IN A JENN-AIR SLIDE IN UNIT LIKE OURS.
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No temperature control
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Max from Houston, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way. Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
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Everything works but no heat
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from LISBON, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Super easy. 2 screws allows you to remove the access panel. One screw on the igniter bracket removes the igniter. Pull off the 2 wire connectors and plug into the new one. Test the dryer and close the access panel.
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Dryer would not heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from STOW, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Followed directions from Youtube video
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My gas dryer was drying intermittantly. The gas valve wasn't opening when the igniter was firing up.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Alfred from DELMAR, DE
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
rts came quickly & I got started. First, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall about a foot. this was done so the top would have clearance when it was lifted up. Next, I removed the lint trap and then took the two screws under the lint trap door out. Then you use a screwdriver(flat blade) to release the top of the dryer. The release points are about 1-2 inches from the edge of dryer. Next pull the wire connector apart so the front can be removed. The connector is on the right side, front corner, facing the dryer. There are two hexhead screws near the top on both sides. Remove the and the front will come apart as you lift it slightly. Then you disengage the tub belt. Once this is done the tub can be lifted out and set aside/ take care to remember each things position as you take it apart, so you will not get confused when you reassemble. Now the solinoid assembley is easy to get to. Use a phillips screw driver and remove the two screws that retain the bracket that holds the solinoids in place.. Lift the bracket and remove one solinoid at a time. Pull the wire from it and plug the new, like solinoid to the wire and put it back in place. then do the other one. set the bracket back over the new kit and replace the screws to the bracket. Set the tub back in, rethread the belt to the drive wheel. Next put the front back on making sure the bottom part slips into the two sides of the dryer.Replace the hexhead screws on each side; plug the wire connector together. Now , pull the lid down into position and press into place. Replace the lint trap screws and replace the lint trap. Plug dryer up and we are done. Repossition the dryer to its original place. It really was not a hard job at all. Thank-you Susan for your help and expertise.
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The heat would go off after a few minutes
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • John from MUSKOGEE, OK
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed the screws on the dryer vent and the back of the dryer top. Then I raised up the top panel and removed the screws that held the front panel on. I removed the front panel to access the coils. I replaced the coils and then the front and top panel and screws. All went well. The dryer is working properly now.
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Dryer tumbler was rubbing on metal
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Stuart from Port Charlotte, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
As it turned out, the felt was only part of the problem. The guide bracket had been cut thru by the drum. This all started when a golf tee got stuck in the drum area. It took very little time to destroy the guide bracket. Dryer was built by Whirlpool. Parts are built to the bare minimum. These appliances are designed to break in a c ouple of years. There is no doubt about it. I installed the new guide brkt, glued the new felt on and put it all back together. The job is pretty straight forward but you need to be mechanically inclined.
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top electric element (broiler) burned up/melted/dropped in several parts onto oven floor
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • jos from COLDWATER, MI
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I checked out Maytag.com - found the parts page on my computer - found the top oven element - ordered it from Part Select - it arrived just a few days later......

Before it arrived, I removed the damaged electric element from top of oven - easy.

Oven was ready for me to install new element - the video on your website was perfect - it helped me remove the old & install the new element from Part Select. It took me about an hour.

Thank you for your fast service, good instructions & the video!

I'm an 84 year old female. Did this by myself! Thank you!
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Dryer not getting hot
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • jeff from SPARTA, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Open top of dryer, then remove front. Coils on lower left. Unplug and replace coils. Vacuum loose lint from bottom of dryer. Replace front then top of dryer. Test run. All good !
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the coils was not releasing the gas into the chamber.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from EWING, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I unplug the electric, close the gas valve, use the putty blade to prize up the top,unplug the electric horness, took the front door off, took the anker plate off the two coils, removed the wire from each coil,be careful not toget the wires mixed up one coil has two proms and the other has three proms after that u put everything back toge ther the way u took it off!!
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Front Drum Seal became detatched.I Recommend replacing both seals.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • jeanne from NEWBERRY, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
Step by step, I removed the bottom front panel with a putty knife to compress the spring clamps, removed the inner lint trap, disconnected the door switch and springs and blower connection under the drum, removed the lint trap/ blower housing, remove nuts at bottom sides of door panel, lift top front of dryer (putty knife, spring clamps) to remove nuts at the top then removed the door panel. I then released the belt from the (spring) pulley and pulled the drum out. Pay attention to how the seals were put on! I removed the old seals and cleaned off the old adhesive with acetone and a steel scrubby( wear gloves when using acetone and when applying new adhesive, and work in a ventilated area!) Follow instructions for applying the adhesive for the seals. Put back together in reverse order. Repair successful!
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All Instructions for the AES1
121 - 135 of 468